You bet your ass there is and I should know because I’ve just spent the last 10 days on an enforced leave of absence from the water. What’s a paltry 10 days I hear you ask? “That’s nothing”, “grin an bear it”, “take it on the chin” have been the responses of my mates. One even went so far as telling me to “have a cup of harden the f@#%k up!”
He’s right. I do need to harden up. At some point most of us will be faced with the reality of time out of the water and how we approach that time can make all the difference in the world to your well being and sanity. Once you stop physically surfing it doesn’t stop you being a surfer though. Your identity and psyche don’t suddenly change with the halting of the act of riding waves. It is not a switch that you can simply turn off as I’ve just rediscovered.\
I still check the charts everyday and I mindsurf anything resembling a wave in my immediate vicinity. Check our new ad http://www.thebombsurf.com/blog/7/62/summer-2012 to see what I’m talking about, but it goes beyond that. Physically I need to release the energy that builds up so I find myself running to do just that. The routes I take not surprisingly take me past the beach, a double-edged sword if ever there was one. Cool to smell the sea and see the waves, hard to watch them knowing I can’t surf them.
I fantasise about my re-entry into the ocean. The thought teases me. I can see a swell coming, but I’m not sure if I’ll be ready for it. I hope and pray I am. In the meantime I realise just how lucky we are to have surfing in our lives. I never thought I took it for granted but I’m even more grateful now.
If you are landlocked, bother or sister I feel your pain. If you are surfing today or you have already caught your quota, pause and reflect on the magic of what you’ve just done.
John
Got something to say? Then leave a comment!
Posted by Shintaro on the 20/02/2012 23:44
Lilia Ahner - Hi Heather:You did a btaeuiful job with their engagement photos! The surf pics are like a dream, looks like so much fun to shoot!
.jpg)
.gif)
