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An investigation into the source of modern ripping.

26/02/2012


All images by Flame and Chang

The pulse of progress beats rapidly. A hot crew of youngsters, keeping a keen eye on each other, are continuously raising the bar and redefining what is possible. But, they owe their prowess not to their peers, but to one man in particular. One who had a look at the status quo and his contemporaries, and just went and did things his way.

Larry Bertlemann, one of the original shortboard pioneers, does not believe in limitations. His credo, and motto for his shaping company is: Anything is possible. A phrase he has lived most of his life by. The Hawaiian, known as the Rubberman for obvious reasons, turned a broken longboard with a glassed on fin into his first shortboard and from then on blew boundaries away with a new style that no-one had seen before, but everyone has known since. Like he said: possibility.

Up until the early 70’s, surfing had mostly been about style, with Gerry Lopez’s Zen-likeness being the apex. Bertlemann decided that the upright stance and sweeping turns were blasé and set about crouching low and putting as much rail into his cutting turns as possible. His martial arts background provided a foundation in shifting balance and ‘weighting and un-weighting’ through the turn. Paired with visionary shaper, Ben Aipa, surfing would never be the same again. He was chilling on the other side of the door when a few unruly Antipodeans bust it down. Not content with ripping it in the water, he took his style to the concrete on skateboards as well.

Although he did well in competitions until the late 1970’s and enjoyed a record number of cover shots until his last in 1984, he dropped out of the limelight soon after, but managed to keep some of his sponsors – notably United and Southwest airlines. This kept him mobile and in good surf. But, after decades of putting his body through teenage behaviour, two degenerated disks partially paralysed the right side of body. This limited his new shaping venture as well as sadly putting an end to the old ‘rubberman’ style. Grounded by fate, life took a further turn for the worse and after heading down the wrong path he was incarcerated on robbery and fire-arm charges in 2001.

Now a free man again and reformed, he’s regained most of his movement, shapes boards with his own beautiful artwork and gets in the water as often as possible.

 

Yet, perhaps his most defining influence was on skateboarding. He paved the way for the transfer of moves and styles between the sports. He was heavily influential of the infamous Z-Boys of Zephyr Surfboards and Dogtown fame. For the comatose, they were a Santa Monica surf/skate crew which would themselves go on to redefine skateboarding and elevate it to its position in board sport culture today. A ‘bert’ is still the term used for a hand-drag or plant in skating.

It’s tempting to compare him to current surfers and a few spring to mind. But, the trailblazer would be insulted. A firm believer in individuality he encourages people to be themselves above all else.

To answer the question posed in the title, Larry is on the Gold Coast right now, busy helping promote a movie Sons of Beaches 1972 – a flick about the Aussie surf team who showed up at the San Diego World Titles of that year and started to shake things up for the establishment. He also has just received the accolade of an ASP life membership. Well done, Larry. The Bomb tried to contact him without success, but would like to congratulate Larry on this well-deserved recognition.

In answering one the questions the Bomb would have posed to him, Larry said in his acceptance: “Where surfing is today is where I dreamed it should be in the 70’s”. It would be great to know if the man with imagination and creativity could dream where it will be in the next forty years time.



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Posted by julian on the 27/02/2012 09:05
How many times have I watched this very scenario unfold?? Hot young surfer. Big sponsorship. Big ego. Fall from favour. No life skills. Crime. Jail. Sometimes even death. A good article worth reading would be about these types of people and in the surfing world, there's no shortage of material!

Posted by Bushy on the 28/02/2012 14:53
The outline of that red, white and blue 1970's board is all the rage nowadays with every shaper having a model like it on the market and claiming it as his own. Normally the only original/creative thing about it is the name they give it!

The Digital Stoke Distillery

24/02/2012

(The creative space)

As anyone who has ever worked on a magazine will tell you every issue you put out is quite a rollercoaster for those making it.

I see it as a process of refinement. You source, you gather, you polish, you cut, you edit, then you do it over and over again slowly bringing the whole issue to completion.  As the sands of time run out and you approach your print in deadline you see this thing coming to life before your eyes and it’s a magical process.

There is one part in the process, especially with surfing magazines because they are so visually driven, that I really love and that is the repro/colour correction stage. This is where all the assembled gems from the photographic contributors from around the world are polished until they shine.

Of course none of this would be possible without the amazing work of the photographers who supply us. In the next issue of theBOMBsurf there will be photographic contributions from SA, Spain, California, Hawaii, Australia, Bali, Tahiti and Fiji making the magazine a real international collaboration of artists. 

(Master-wizard Jono at work while photographer Kelly Cestari gets some tips)

In Durban there is place we’ve discovered called ‘Pure Studios’ where these guys are wizards at colour correction, Photoshop and digital manipulation. So much so we’ve redubbed them The Digital Stoke Distillery.  Jono, Bryan, Slade, Dean and the crew are really good at what they do but they also have so much fun doing it.

It is one of those spaces that when you walk into you just sense the creative energy flowing through the people who work there. They are usually pretty busy working on real jobs but they always make a plan to squeeze us in. They help us because they like what we do. A large part of theBOMBsurf’s visual impact comes from the work these guys do on our images and ultimately you guys, the magazine readers are the winners.

Personally it is so rewarding to watch these images being made to sparkle. Even though we’re the guys making the magazine I promise you I love looking at these images as much if not more than the end reader who gets the mag eventually.

The BOMBsurf Issue 14 edges closer to completion

(The BOMBsurf Issue 14 edges closer to completion)

Keep an eye out for Issue 14, Autumn 2012, it is shaping up to be a cracker!
John
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Posted by Milton on the 17/03/2012 07:54
I thought it was ieternsting that Mills made the comparison of tweeting at conferences to the way that students (or colleagues) will occasionally say things online or via email that you would never see in person. But this is where the difference with Twitter lies. Since it is real-time and in public (most of the time), you have an incentive to *not* behave badly. It's one thing to post a response to a class forum, late at night, and not think about things. It seems to me to be quite another to be posting during a conference session when you know others IN THAT SESSION will be reading what you say immediately. The institutional pressures at that point will encourage you to behave.And yes: Twitter has been a great leveler for my experience of academia. Since many institutions have only a handful of people that work in a particular field, I have found that Twitter puts me in touch with a much larger section of colleagues (in contemporary literature; in digital humanities) than I could ever get locally.

Posted by Nurfatin on the 03/05/2012 00:45
Thanks for the review. From what you say, it suodns like Chrome would be a great OS for a mobile phone or a mobile device similar to the iPad, but the lack of ability to install and use applications doesn't seem well-suited to a laptop.I'm also concerned a bit about how proprietary it seems; it seems to rely heavily on one's Google account and plugins. I really hated when Microsoft integrated Outlook into its OS and it seems like Google took that a step further. :/Granted, as a heavy computer user (including several different kinds of applications) I don't seem to be the target for Chrome. It would probably be a decent OS for some of my family members, who primarily use their computers for e-mail and whatnot. But that does bring up another issue: accessibility.My grandmother only uses her computer to keep up with the family via e-mail and read some websites, but she has macular degeneration as well as hearing problems so she has applications installed on her machine to compensate (a program that magnifies her desktop, a program that reads text, and a program that allows her to speak instead of type). Chrome doesn't seem like it would easily support features to help people with disabilities.I'm also curious as to what happens when you lose your internet connection? Can you access Google Docs and whatnot offline?

The 2012 J-Bay Billabong Pro downgraded to a 6 star WQS.

24/02/2012
Hi Chad thank you for agreeing to the interview. The news we heard this morning is that the Billabong Pro J-Bay event has been downgraded from a World Tour event to a 6 star WQS. Is this true?

Yes – it is true.

Was this a decision taken at a local or international level?

The decision was made at international board level.

Can you comment on the likelihood of the event being upgraded to a World Tour event again in 2013?


It is a bit too early to comment on that but ultimately we want the event back to running as a WCT.


It is early days but do you have any indication of which of the top guys might still come?


Again - it is still early days and the news has just broken so I’m not sure how it will affect the top guys travel plans. I’m sure many of them would still come as they all love J-Bay and as it is still a Billabong event I’m sure we would have many of our team riders coming over.

While there is no question that this is a huge disappointment and loss to SA Surfing, there is a silver lining to this cloud in that the event is now open to all SA WQS Surfers again for the first time in nearly 2 decades. Which local standouts do you expect to see performing?

We definitely see positives – It is a fantastic opportunity for South African surfers to showcase their talents. We have so many great surfers who would not generally get to surf in an event of this magnitude. It’s really difficult to single out any individuals but I reckon the regular Supers standouts should do well.

Thanks Chad for the straight up answers, we’ll see you down there in July for sure.


Thanks John. We’re still committed to hosting a world class event and I’d just like to encourage as many local surfers to enter so that we can make this a truly South African event and keep the trophy on home shores. See you in July…

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Posted by warren l on the 24/02/2012 15:35
This is a real pity. Is this a sign of the tough ecoonomic times we are all in?

Posted by Billy on the 27/02/2012 12:00
It may be, but it is very disapointing that the only WCT on the African continent is the 1st to get the Axe. It make you wonder about Billabongs principles if it is a Billabong alone decision. Were is the investment & development needed the most, in USA & Australia or Africa ? It cant be called a WORLD tour if the whole african continent is left out !

Posted by pat flan on the 27/02/2012 12:31
SA is a marginalised market for Billabong, despite the history of JBay, its waves and Billabong. Obviously Brazil and Europe are more important. So there's it.

Posted by AJ on the 27/02/2012 16:54
What is the cost saving for Billabong on this one? Why not pull Rio or Teahupoo. I understand Rio maybe because there are crowds but CT has better beach breaks. Teahupoo has less crowds? Are Rio and Teahupoo better time zone slot for the USA to watch online??? Come on J-Bay rated best wave in the world by Ke11y.... ASP and Billabong could have worked something better out?

Posted by Mark on the 27/02/2012 17:23
This is my take on it. Statistically Jordy has the highest probability of winning J -Bay & it is also not just about winning events but the confidence that this gives you going forward. I don't think anyone would dispute that certain waves favour certain surfers. Jordy if he won an ASP world Title would significantly increase O’Neil’s market share globally & in the U.S. particularly - taking a larger slice of Billabongs pie, that’s the big picture. The difference for a company like Billabong between the cost of a 6 * & WCT event in terms of their international costs in their income & expenditure is "pocket change." If the ASP rule allow O'Neil should just sponsor a mobile on the South Cost with all its point breaks.

Posted by TrevorG on the 28/02/2012 10:02
All the spin in the world will not change the fact that Africa is clearly not a priority for Billabong. The short term saving will be a long term liability in their brand value in ZAR. Poor decision, another move towards them losing core surfing purchasers, perhaps they will just push more stock through Edgars to those who have no idea of the actual surf brand.

Posted by Jamii on the 28/02/2012 11:42
Sure this might be a blow to the ego and favour the elite surfers whom struggle in quality waves, but it does open the doors for local WQS'rs looking for a step up. Regardless of the down grade, I'm confident that the majority of the elite surfer will still come here and if they had a choice would rather bypass Brazil! Remember Kelly won his 11th title without surfing J-Bay and still dominated in the beach breaks, so don't worry about Jordy's campaign as he rips in anything and missing his favourite wave will only fire him up!

Posted by Baciu on the 21/03/2012 13:30
I've unfortunately taken some pertty awesome poundings all around the hawaiian islands. One in particular that comes to mind was one day at Makaha Beach on the island of Oahu. My brother Rick was knocked unconscious, luckily we were able to resuscitate him in a matter of seconds. I was tossed around in the washing machine for what seemed to be an eternity. I was tired, and rested a while only for the both of us to hit the surf once again. It the most extreme days of surfing.

Posted by Chris Benson on the 13/04/2012 18:36
This really does suck as it is probabloy the biggest annual sporting event in Africa let alone South Africa... Where does a person find out who all will be attending the QS? still think it sucks... Also you guys need Kody McGregor from PE as a photographer, he is super awesome and the stoke in his photo's is evidence

Posted by Nurul on the 02/05/2012 20:14
And that's exactly where they shuold be. Really, they have no business surfing at all, but that's another matter rooted in militant feminism's push to annihilate all distinctions between the sexes. Sadly, in practice the predominant feature of this push is to transform women into men. I say that it's only predominant, however, because the campaign also includes the emasculation of men, which has also been quite successful.

Back to the future in 1984

19/02/2012

I found this SURFER Cover image recently looking for something else on Google Images. At first I missed the amazing futurism of what it represents as it looked, well so like so many contemporary shots we see today. Then I thought hang on, that was 1984, the year that Tom Carroll won the World Title and Prince released ‘Purple Rain’. Jordy Smith hadn’t been born yet and the internet hadn’t been invented.

I can’t ID the surfer. I don’t think it is Dane Kealoha the legendary Hawaiian charger but who ever he is he was certainly providing a glimpse of things to come. There are two things that strike me about this image. Firstly the aerial. There were not many airs been boosted around the place in 1984. In fact to benchmark how futuristic this was in its day consider that the floater was thought to be pretty cutting edge around then. Secondly the 4 fin setup, showing that high performance quads have been around long before Dane Reynolds was born or Kelly Slater brought them back into vogue.

The first guy to positively ID this futuristic ripper scores a limited edition BOMBsurf T. If we can, we’ll try track him down and ask him about it and what it was like surfing and being on the cover of SURFER back in 1984.

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Posted by Warren Howard on the 19/02/2012 20:03
The surfer is Buttons Kealulani(not sure on spelling).

Posted by John McCarthy on the 19/02/2012 20:49
Hey Warren are you sure? We're actually talking to Buttons about something else right now (see the next issue of theBOMBsurf) but it would be easy to check with him. Any other takers?

Posted by Richard von Wildemann on the 19/02/2012 21:10
Larry "Rubberman" Bertlemann

Posted by Warren Howard on the 20/02/2012 06:24
It's Dane Keakulani

Posted by mark snowball on the 20/02/2012 08:37
Yeah,Buttons Kaluiokalani,but not riding a Ben Aipa T+C by the looks of things.Think LB had already faded by this time.Could also be Louie Ferreira.Tough one with no light on his face!?

Posted by chris on the 20/02/2012 08:49
Dane Keoloha

Posted by Patrick on the 20/02/2012 09:01
The surfer is Larry Bertlemann - http://www.surfwarez.com/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=788&c=0

Posted by Gabriel Kroes on the 20/02/2012 09:09
Montgomery Earnest Thomas Kaluhiokalani aka Buttons...

Posted by Gary Lightfoot on the 20/02/2012 09:10
Its Larry Bertelman

Posted by byron on the 20/02/2012 09:14
its Larry o's

Posted by Jamii on the 20/02/2012 09:25
Larry Bertlemann busting an air at Velzyland. See link to the Astro deck team in Hawaii 83/84 http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-71uGoVclV2s/TzAcS5qcOAI/AAAAAAAAGoM/CjlYa5-6s8o/s1600/thrust5.jpg

Posted by Richard Myburgh on the 20/02/2012 10:06
The original rubberman Larry Bertleman!

Posted by Hugh Thompson on the 20/02/2012 10:28
Certainly looks like Buttons to me, but I don't remember him wearing that big-ass watch when he surfed. Buttons was so into the single fin stinger type boards with Mark Liddel and crew. Aerials were not uncommon during that period, just go back and see what Christian Fletcher was doing, as well as our own futuristic surfers, Martin Potter and Snake Park's Mark Wright, who could get air whenever he cared to. Unfortunately at the time it meant nothing and went over everyone's heads. Early 4fins were very popular with the Twinzer dominating for a while back then.

Posted by Hylton Lockitch on the 20/02/2012 10:50
Martin Potter

Posted by mix on the 20/02/2012 10:53
definitely Larry Bertlemann, got the issue in my collection, Was his last cover on Surfer ( he was at one stage holding the most covers ever) He was so ahead of his time, with surfing style,riding twinnies and stingers.Plus his flamboyant self promotion and sponsorships outside of the surf industry set the bar for pro surfing today. Also could surf big Sunset and Waimea if need be. Him and Kevin Reed from Santa Cruz were the aerial pioneers. Massive contribution to surfing.

Posted by mix on the 20/02/2012 10:55
PS/ Check the QUAD !

Posted by Millerslocal on the 20/02/2012 11:04
Larry Bertelmann as shot by good mate Craig Fineman, who was also a famous skate photag at the time.

Posted by Barry Campbell on the 20/02/2012 12:16
That was right in my era. I would put my money on Larry Bertleman, saw him doing like that stuff in Hawaii, even before Mart the Dart was doing it! The other big hair charger of the time was Buttons, doing similar stuff, but he was a bigger guy than LB. My money’s on LB.

Posted by Jesse Langemann on the 20/02/2012 13:11
"used to do "Berts" on the asphalt banks in the school yards!" lol

Posted by John McCarthy on the 20/02/2012 14:45
Hey Guys thanks for all the input! Yea this surfing is inspiring to say the least especially considering it comes from 1984. The consensus seems to be going with LB. We're gonna try track Larry down to see if it is in fact him and see if he'll update us on what he's been up to for the last couple of decades. Richard von Wildemann you are looking good for a limited edition BOMBsurf T, can you mail me your postal and T size to john@thebombsurf.com?

Posted by Anton on the 20/02/2012 15:21
definitely larry, richard takes the t-shirt. art brewer took the pic. block of wax for getting that right?

Posted by Henk on the 20/02/2012 16:22
This is Martin Potter

Posted by neville on the 20/02/2012 17:24
Martin Potter

Posted by Ryan McMeeking on the 20/02/2012 17:57
I think Warren's got it (Montgomery "Buttons" Kaluhiokalani) - my first choice would have been Potz, but I think he was riding Safari twinnies or T&C's at the time - with that haircut its gotta be Buttons!

Posted by Ashley Legg on the 20/02/2012 21:17
It's Larry Bertlemann

Posted by Bandit on the 21/02/2012 05:17
Larry Bertleman

Posted by ham on the 21/02/2012 08:55
chris osborn from the bluff was doing that in std6 . He matriculated in 86

Posted by ham on the 21/02/2012 08:56
Dane Kealoha

Posted by bikoumou patrick on the 21/02/2012 17:29
Dane kehaloa

Posted by Rowan Whitfield on the 21/02/2012 18:08
Well, that looks very much like Dane? Larry Bertleman or Buttons is a good bet? also Michael Ho comes to mind. I tink it's Larry Bertleman, Michasl was'nt as big as that? Button's was a lancky kid?

Posted by Mouse Billson on the 21/02/2012 20:02
Dane Kiolao ( speeling surname not good)

Posted by William on the 23/02/2012 13:38
The Great Dane.

Posted by Larry Bertlemann on the 24/02/2012 06:39
The photo is me Larry Bertlemann but back in the 70"s it"s called a Larrial!!!

Posted by John McC on the 27/02/2012 11:39
Hey guys check the cool follow up that Anton Louw did: http://www.thebombsurf.com/blog/7/142/an-investigation-into-the-source-of-modern-ripping

Posted by Ofentse on the 21/03/2012 17:45
Pretty nice post. I just came by your blog and wanted to tshayat I've really liked reading your posts. Any wayI'll be subscribing to your feed and I hope you post again soon!

Posted by scooter raynor on the 28/04/2012 03:47
its Larry Bertelmann!

Posted by Ami on the 05/05/2012 05:37
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A celebrity VST Match Up. Curren circa the early 90's vs Medina in San Fran last year.

19/02/2012
VST Celebrity Match Up 20 years apart. Tom Curren circa the early 90’s vs Gabriel Medina 2011 in San Francisco, who do you think surfs better?



VS
 

Who's clip is best?

  • Gabriel Medina
  • Tom Curren
Vote

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Posted by Warwick H on the 20/02/2012 09:39
reckon if Curren rode short wide boards instead of long skinny guns he would have ripped better than Medina...but Medina surfs better....

Posted by justin J on the 20/02/2012 09:54
Medina's clip is more entertaining, but from this footage, Curren charges harder and get's better tubes. I vote the youngster.

Posted by Jamii on the 20/02/2012 10:06
You can't compare these great surfers, it like Appletizer Vs Vintage Merlot......

Posted by Matt Pallet on the 20/02/2012 11:41
Its hard to compare because its two different types of surfing, on one side you could say medina wins because his surfing was more technical but compared to airs people can do these days his clip was not actually impressive. On the other side, tom was surfing( wave RIDING) and he was doing that better than most people can, like the lines and bottom turns and stuff...... so Tom gets my vote

Posted by Preenie on the 20/02/2012 12:52
Curren for sure,classic to think that,he use to hang with franki for some inspiration.Plus fotage is of cranking waves

Posted by Chris on the 20/02/2012 13:36
Curren ... I cant believe you are actually asking this question!!! Madina got some good chop hops and a fair off the top. But that's like comparing a good bottle of wine ... sure Madina might mature and become good ...maybe great. Curren in that clip is great Madina could only wish to surf like that .... and that's not considering style. P>S good point, "Appletizer Vs Vintage Merlot......"

Posted by John McC on the 20/02/2012 14:57
For me this is more a question about the direction that surfing is taking. 20 years ago when the Curren clip was shot Curren wasn't even on the tour. Yet he was still the most exciting thing in surfing. He'd won his world titles and was off searching for cooking, cranking empty waves with Frankie. At the time we all thought it was the most epic thing ever, some of us still do. Medina's blitzkrieg last year was exciting for surfing but it's leading in a different direction. Personally I could watch Curren's bottom turn forever.

Posted by francois on the 21/02/2012 21:12
How can you even compare the two.Tom is a legend over and over.Gabriel is a littlle snotkop that rips.Both athletes deserve respect in their own right but I choose Tom hands down.

Posted by Sonya on the 22/02/2012 08:55
I've been rneaidg a few posts and really and enjoy your writing. I'm just setting up my own blog and only hope that I can write as well and provide the reader so much insight.

Posted by warren l on the 22/02/2012 13:06
Tommy is just so fluid, but Gabriel tears it to pieces. Tough call. I do prefer Tommys barrel skills though.

Posted by Grant P on the 22/02/2012 15:13
Are you serious??? Curren is to surfing what the Pixies were to todays rock musicians. Gabriel who? Never heard of him and looking at his surfing, he looks pretty much like anybody else on the tour at the moment... Flip, flap, wiggle and pop! Curren is a surfing genius. Always has been, always will be.

Posted by silver surfer (from Brasil) on the 12/04/2012 01:35
A comparizon is hardly possible...two different eras, different kind of waves...but:: even though at first Medina´s surf looks more appealing, flashy, quick, i´ve seen both surfing alive and can garantee that Curren´s smooth, long, fast and powerfull lines are much more appealing when seen live than Medina´s kind of surfing (no Medina´s fault, of course).

Posted by Abdullah on the 05/05/2012 04:02
We're delighted that you like our wtbisee Aisling! I hope that you have lots of fun cooking with your Mum. If you have any recipes that you really like making, email them over to us Debbie

A promise of great things to come...

15/02/2012
 
I dislike getting packages. I really do. It means I have to take my ID go all the way to the post office in Overport Centre (which is a shit hole), stand in the queue (which seems to get longer every time I go) and redeem my flimsy piece of paper usually for a returned BOMBsurf mag because someone has filled out their address details incorrectly.
This Saturday was different though. I’d been avoiding the chore all week when finally it could be put off no longer. With my game face on I braved the pleasures of Overport City and the post office.

My weary resignation gave way to surprise then timid hope as I saw the package I was collecting. The Ucapah Selamat Indonesian marked postal stamps plastered down the one side of the package promised something different.

These days with fast file sharing services like drop box, yousendit and we transfer contributors don’t bother to send discs anymore, it is all handled online. It is by and large a much more efficient process actually. However every now and then you get surprised.

My first though was ‘who is it from?’. Like a little child at Christmas I flipped the manila envelope over. This package was travelling one way only as there was no return to sender on the back, instead a one line email address lanceslabbert@gmail.com.

I smiled to myself and rushed home to see what was on the disc. Though I haven’t see much of him in recent years Lance and I go back quite a bit. At a time when I was wandering around the world penniless looking for the next wave to surf, Lance was one of the powerhouses of global surf photography. In fact between him and Chris Van Lennup they pretty much dominated the scene in the 90’s. I’m not just talking about locally in SA. These guys were amongst the best in the world, if not THE best. They shot for SURFER and Surfing and a bunch of other international titles. Both of them were formidable swimmers, but they were very different people with very different approaches. Chris was an endurance machine, he would swim all day at Pipe just to get the shot done. Lance was a creative genus who constantly found ways to present a new take on things. They were both incredibly brave. In fact Lance was the first photographer I ever saw swimming at Waimea Bay on a day so big that The Bay closed out. I know that because I was right next to him when we both got caught inside…
 
 
I digress. Unplanned and uncoordinated I had this uncanny knack of bumping into Lance all over the world. I’d be walking down the street in London waiting for my connection back to SA and bang I’d bump into Lance. Or as mentioned previously I’d paddle out at Waimea to find him out there shooting. This happened with such regularity at one point we both joked about where we’d see each other next.

So now having not spoken to him in ages this package arrives at my door bringing all the thoughts and memories with it.

Most often when you get a body of work by a photographer you’ll get one or two great pics and quite a few average ones.

These days what happens is that the photogs will send low res viewing copies via email. If you then select the image you request the high res and they’ll send it using an FTP service. Call him old school, but Lance hadn’t f@#ked around.  He’d sent the high res Tiff’s, 45 images at 50 odd Megs an image. Talk about the motherload!
As I scrolled through image after image mesmerised by what I was looking at I had only one thought. This body of work should be displayed in an art gallery in New York, not sitting on some hack publisher’s broken down Mac in hot humid Durban SA, the arse end of the world.

I contemplate the humble presentation of this work and wonder at its real value in terms of changing the way we think about and choose to interpret the ocean’s lineage and our relationship with it.

I have no idea what prompted him to send these to me after all this time, but what I can say is that you are in for a real treat when we share some of these images with you in our June Issue.

John
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Posted by Lance on the 16/02/2012 05:42
Hi John You forgot the Maldives!? Thanks for the kind words. Cheers Lance

Posted by Millerslocal on the 16/02/2012 07:43
I grew up seeing Lance's images in Surfer & Surfing, back in the days when SA was still isolated from the rest of the world, and it was a big deal when Saffa's were making it on the global scale. Can't wait to see these shots! Know they're going to be AAA grade!

Posted by Emma-joan McPherson on the 16/02/2012 11:49
I'm fortunate enough to know Lance also and he really is, The Dude himself. Old school and amazing in every sense of the world. I'm lucky to have met him and even luckier to still have some contact with him. Very much looking forward to seeing the pictures. Best Emma-joan

Posted by mark on the 16/02/2012 12:45
Cannot wait, I remember both the surfer mag cover and the Sunset pic on the zag... I have never met Lance, but a story I have of Chris Van Lennep was one day (in the 90s) at Cave Rock, surf was a nice 4 foot with some bigger sets, but the tide was super low and as I pushed under one wave i looked into the barrel, saw Chris standing knee deep on the gnarly rock ledge taking pics of some guy deep in the barrel further down....That image is imprinted on my mind and just showed the guys dedication

Posted by Lance on the 16/02/2012 19:37
Chris is without a doubt the man! Respect!

Posted by rene on the 20/02/2012 09:35
do we have to wait so long could we not have a small sneek preview.

Posted by glennintune on the 20/02/2012 14:36
Saw you pounding the pavement yesterday! and I thought it was due to the howling on-shore, meanwhile you were just tripping after checking out some awesome pics - all amped up! go-on just post a few low res? please?

Posted by Jack on the 20/02/2012 15:19
Yeah! It's about time that you exposed some of your fresh creative work Slab, you're a humble man with genius talent - can't wait to check it out!!!

Posted by John McC on the 20/02/2012 16:09
Sorry guys, no sneak peeks. There is a conceptual side to this feature that is really interesting. If we let the cat out of the bag we'll ruin the surprise. Keep an eye out for the Winter Issue of TBS where we'll run it as a complete feature.

Posted by Douglas on the 22/02/2012 01:01
Yea! Sir Lance, thanks for all the good times and advice over the years. Looking forward to these further innerviews from your perspective of this fragmented world of ours which is blessed with warping walls of H2O and keeps us sane in what ever form we experience it. Freundlichen Grüße aus Braunschweig

Posted by Rizky on the 17/03/2012 09:17
Hi Mr Hayden, I'm a Spanish surfer, Ive been srifung for 5 years already and i cant complain with my srifung level, this summer a did a surf trip to Hossegor and came back very motivated. but we don't get much waves here in the south of Spain during de summer so i haven't surfed for about two months, and i fill quite stiff.I would love if you could send me that personal training routine you talked about above because i don't know how to contact with you , the deal is that the 30th of October startsthe srifung circuit that its done every year from October to April .. and id love to be prepared to do it the best i can, its important to me so if you can help me id feel enormously gratified. Thank mateGreat website and videos PEACE BRO

Posted by Yamila on the 02/05/2012 12:32
Global Surf Industries Giveaway Win a Free Surfboard Each Year for 10 Years!!DailyStoke.comGlobal Surf Industries has put together a cetnost where the lucky winner takes home one free surfboard a year for ten years. GSI lives by the mantra “Life Is Better When You Surf!” They know what surfing means to them, but now they want to hear what and more

RIP Eric Robinson - Reckless

13/02/2012

 

Eric worked for Safari in the shop front and factory and was a Safari team rider. He was a hardcore surfer and charged with everybody. Graham Hynes said he was a true gentleman and a pleasure to have around. In his youth Eric spent hundreds of hours surfing at Umbogintwini beach developing his unique natural foot style and qualified with distinction to represent Southern Natal at SA Champs on numerous occasions. Eric was incredibly brave not fearing huge waves and at one Southern Natal surf contest at St Michaels, which was cancelled due to the massive storm surf conditions and the attending danger, Eric jumped off the rocks and paddled out to join springbok surfer Anthony Brodovitch for a session. It was wild with +10’ sets. Everyone else could only watch in awe and with the greatest respect for our 15-year old buddy.

 
Eric’s incredible braveness and selflessness would later be acknowledged with being awarded a bravery medal for having assisted his surfing friend Bruce Aldridge back to the safety of the beach after Bruce was attacked by a shark while they were surfing together off Umbogintwini beach.

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Posted by Shayne McGee on the 20/02/2012 10:37
Many fond memories of the early Twini days and the late evening sessions with you. Thanks for all the tips as a grom and lifts home from the beach. You were always an inspiration to us.

Posted by Marcel Hofmann on the 20/02/2012 10:43
Met Eric in the Maldives 2011 after he hiked and paddle across 2 islands, one of them jails, just to get in at least one good surf! . He surfed with his slops tucked into his baggies until dark! We were lucky enough to give him a lift home and meet an awesome charger! RIP!

Posted by Ryan McMeeking on the 20/02/2012 18:09
I met Eric when I was a lightie surfing St Mikes - my memory of him was during one of the South Coast contests in the 80's - he hit the lip so hard his knee came back and hit him in the mouth, and sent his front teeth through his bottom lip - nothing to him he was all smiles (can't remember how he did in the heat). He was a great role model to us local groms. RIP

Posted by Gareth Davies on the 21/02/2012 08:16
Surfed with Eric on many occasions at Toti and Greenies. Sorry to hear of his passing. RIP Eric.

Posted by Brad Manthe on the 21/02/2012 10:52
I wish you well dear friend - memories of "Hotel Command" army days and your special quirky humour will forever be remembered. I am proud to have known and surfed with you ... Brad Manthe, East London

Posted by ALISON LLOYD on the 23/02/2012 10:39
how come i never heard all these stories Eric-y-you were quite the man!!! Hope the swell over there is bigger and better!!Miss you but always in our hearts.A&A

Posted by Karen Fitzpatrick on the 23/02/2012 11:12
a man of many talents!!! and a great friend in every sense!! I miss you every day - we have planted an wild orchid in your memory so your presence in the zen garden is forever!! K&K

Posted by Bhavya on the 15/03/2012 11:05
Correct me if I am wrong Scott, I believe the tedrics you earn at TrafficSwarm are for views of your Text Display rather than Page Views. This is how they are able to be so generous' with their tedrics.Not that this is a bad thing. The text display is a way for you to Pre-Sell' your site which can improve your conversion. The way TrafficSwarm trains it's users, you can do better with this system especially if you have a compelling text display ad.Bill.Excellent point, Bill. It is an easy thing to use this to your advantage when you understand how TrafficSwarm works.Rather than clicking along in a typical exchange and seeing one splash page at a time, as you click in TrafficSwarm you see several text ads. Many people click on all the text ads as they progress, but some only click on the text ads that interest them.I treat my text ads in the same way I treat splash pages. A compelling targeted text ad will pull in more clicks on the ad and the surfers will be more interested in reading the offer on the capture page. Subsequently, the opt in rate on the capture page is much higher.Spend some time learning to create good text ads for TrafficSwarm. The TEP splash pages are a good guide to use for developing your headlines and ad copy. Also, changing your text ads on a regular basis (about once per week) keeps the click through rate higher.- Scott

Posted by Jonathan Thompson on the 30/03/2012 16:39
The passing of a true hero and legend. RIP Eric - thanks for all the great times in the water and on the beach.

Posted by Fayzali on the 05/05/2012 05:31
That's raelly shrewd! Good to see the logic set out so well.

Some waves are just not meant to be ridden.

12/02/2012


A dose of small wave wipeouts to make you feel better about yourself this Monday morning.

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Posted by Eugene on the 15/02/2012 12:00
Classic - def. made me feel better ;-)

Posted by Fabio on the 05/05/2012 06:05
When you are done with your lawn, can you come over and do mine?Both neighbors are retreid and have been for some time. They both have fancy lawn mowers. They both mow there law 3 times a week to keep it 'well manicured'. Next to their lawns, I am in the same boat as you. My lawn is always overgrown.

Surfing activist Kyle Thiermann puts the spotlight on Thyspunt.

10/02/2012

 “Surfing for Change: J Bay Nuclear Plant” is a new short film exploring the dangers of a planned nuclear power plant in the pristine shores of Jeffrey’s Bay, South Africa. Made by youth environmental activist, pro-surfer and filmmaker Kyle Thiermann, the film calls attention to the potential for environmental disaster if Eskom, South Africa’s national power company, locates the nuclear plant in the waters of one of the most famous surfing destinations in the world.

Featuring interviews with renowned environmental leader Van Jones, 11-time Surfing World champion Kelly Slater, documentarian Foster Gamble and local surfing activists, the film calls attention to the inherent dangers of nuclear power in the wake of the March 2011 Fukushima Daiichi disaster — the largest nuclear failure since the 1986 Chernobyl meltdown.

Underscoring deep concerns about what’s at stake, the film also offers a personal perspective from Takayuki Wakita, a Japanese surfer whose family lived 100 kilometers from the meltdown at the Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear power plant and now resides in J Bay.

“Surfing for Change: J-Bay Nuclear Plant” available for free through viral web outlets like YouTube, challenges young people to take action and use social media channels to support global opposition to the power plant, encourage exploration of alternative energy sources and points to decisions made by leading European countries to abandon nuclear power plants —Germany will end its nuclear power plant usage in ten years.

Thiermann hopes the film will aid the efforts of local residents who are fighting against a billion dollar initiative that promises employment opportunities in the short term; but risks future environmental catastrophe. “I met amazing people working to stop the plant from being built,” he said. “If it is built, the landscape would be transformed with the building of a power plant. And, the lives of these residents will also be transformed. And not for the good.”

“Surfing for Change” film series shows people who don’t consider themselves activists how to adjust simple daily actions to strengthen their local communities and protect the environment. His film Claim Your Change detailed how money kept in multinational banks is used to finance destructive projects worldwide. It inspired people to move hundreds of million of dollars of lending power into local banks and credit unions. Since then, he has made movies ranging from the importance of shopping locally to following a plastic bag to Hawaii.  Kyle has surfed his way across Indonesia, Chile, Peru, El Salvador, Costa Rica, Mexico, Sri Lanka, Australia, Hawaii and throughout the US. For more information visit surfingforchange.com.

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Posted by Rene Mutsaerts on the 13/02/2012 11:44
Hi Kyle You should have a look at this. Liquid-Fluoride Thorium Reactor (LFTR) technology - Kirk Sorensen www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=YVSmf_qmkbg René Mutsaerts Durban, South Africa

Posted by mark brownell on the 13/02/2012 15:53
Does anyone know where to find updates on the "scenario"???... heard various reports. Glad to see the Americans giving us a hand. More local support would be good to see!! Mark, CT

Posted by Trudi Malan Thyspunt Alliance Co ordinator on the 16/02/2012 14:45
Updates on the situation can be found at www.facebook.com/notatthyspunt or www.thyspunt.org. The final Environmental Impact Report has not been published but we are very aware that Eskom will try to make a square bolt fit a round hole when it comes to Thyspunt.

Posted by Rachelle on the 20/02/2012 16:16
the ueiiitlts have no choice and have to toe the government line? I agree that they cannot break the law, but can't they fight back both through the media by purchasing time if necessary and through the courts? Reply

Rip Curl Push the boundaries of surf photography to help showcase the Mirage.

09/02/2012
Imagine building a 30 camera rig and then flying all the way to Fiji to do your photo shoot? So serious were Rip Curl about showcasing their Mirage this is exactly what they did. And yes of course they got lots of pretty pictures. It can’t be that long before webcasts offer this type of imagery, where you’ll be able to pan around a paused HD shot of your favourite surfer mid heat at some crazy break.

Surfing lends itself to a visual presentation. If you look at this now and try and imagine what will be happening in 5 years you have to agree it will be mind-blowing.


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Posted by Paul on the 13/02/2012 09:53
Yep. Enter the Matrix has now even impacted the world of surfing.

Posted by Kajsa on the 20/02/2012 18:04
: Si tu saavis comme j'ai eu du mal a mettre autre chose que mon top corail et mon pantalon en toile cette semaine ! J'apprecie vraiment le confort et les valeurs de la marque. Je vais bientot aller faire un tour au magasin Rip Curl de Paris (d'apres mes recherches il serait situe au 74 bld du Montparnasse 75014 )

Posted by Jaffaa on the 22/02/2012 09:03
Le 07/08/2010 a 22h47 J'aime bien la jupe ; mais la cctleolion n'a vraiment rien de special. Je m'attendais a mieux. Cependant chez Ripcurl on trouve des chemises a carreaux avec des couleurs sympa parfois !

Surfing in the desert, what the?

05/02/2012
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Posted by john on the 06/02/2012 09:33
ja surfed this place the other night i finished at like 10 at night but it is open till 12pm really fun place had not surfed in alomost 5 months and went up there so much fun you can choose between lefts rights and a frame and a size from 1-6 the best is about 4 it keeps it shape better if you are around the area worht the trip but phone first to book just in case .

Posted by Pedro on the 06/02/2012 17:32
What does it cost to surf there? Looks really fun.....

Posted by julian on the 06/02/2012 20:40
This IS the future. Vision. Willingness. Technology. Money. Let the Arabs lead the way. And who knows, maybe in years to come, we will be planning surf trips hundreds of kilometres away from the coast line............................

Posted by Magali on the 22/02/2012 08:53
Yes. It makes a deeifrfnce to that one. Lives have been saved through those small efforts. Sanity restored, hope renewed. You never know how much a kind word, a short note, a gentle touch on the arm, any small thing may impact someone. Example: I sent out a 7 word tweet to DailyLetter this week. Just a short line of something I hoped for him. And it impacted him powerfully enough to write a letter. You just never know. Thanks, J :)

Posted by Ahmad on the 22/02/2012 12:29
Thanks, Kate. Looking forrawd to seeing you here. And it's always good good good news that Kate's writing writing writing.

Posted by Lawa on the 16/03/2012 00:00
Customer Loyalty is a key ingredient to scusecs.By using customer rewards, you are encouraging customer loyalty. This is just a smart business practice by program owners.I enjoy achievable customer loyalty rewards, as well. One of my favorites is the surf 10 a day at Sweeva. Your experience points start to add up quickly. This increases your Rank which increases your credits per view.I agree with you Dyanna, customer rewards can be lots of fun.

This puts your little 4 foot face plant into perspective.

05/02/2012



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Posted by Chloe Taverner on the 08/02/2012 15:48
AWSOME CLUBMASTER RAY-BANS!!!

Posted by Mickey on the 22/02/2012 13:04
What youre siynag is completely true. I know that everybody must say the same thing, but I just think that you put it in a way that everyone can understand. I also love the images you put in here. They fit so well with what youre trying to say. Im sure youll reach so many people with what youve got to say.

Pipe goes Bang Busters

02/02/2012


The third day of competition for the 2012 Volcom Pipe Pro started this morning in absolutely perfect 10-12 foot Pipeline. We awoke to pumping surf that cranked all day long from the same WNW swell that washed out Pipeline yesterday.

Today's standouts included three perfect 10-point rides (with a $1,000 cash bonus from Electric's "Perfect 10 Award") given to Balaram Stack (New York), Dusty Payne (Hawaii) and Dylan Graves (Puerto Rico).
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Posted by Raynoch on the 14/02/2012 21:53
Furrealz? That's marevloulsy good to know.

Posted by Rbzx on the 20/02/2012 15:39
It dpeends on what you like to do. If you're an adrenaline junkie who loves action-packed sports like snowboarding, wakeboarding or skateboarding, then you'll definitely like surfing more. If you like to do things like scuba diving or snorkeling, bicycling, running then you'll probably like paddleboarding more. I wouldn't say that it's really an exciting sport but it's something cool to do if you want some exercise but hate going to the gym. It's gorgeous relaxing and peaceful, especially when the water is super flat. It may be REALLY fun if you're in a tropical area with crystal clear water and you can see all sorts of sea-life underneath you. If you want to do something that you can pick up quickly, try paddleboarding first. Surfing has a harder learning curve but it's also an amazing workout. I would definitely recommend taking a surfing lesson whereas you can try paddleboarding on your own without needing a certified instructor.

Posted by Sheila on the 22/02/2012 03:25
melanie was rellay awesome at the end, she definitely deserved first placeAlthough Stephanie Gilmore was also rellay good, awesome clip on the wave of the day!

Posted by Neville on the 22/02/2012 11:26
It is good to know that there are more dsnaiettions for kitsurfers. The sport is becoming more popular and more people are searching for exotic dsnaiettions where they can practice the sport.