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| When the pendulum swings |
| 28 January 2010, 22:31 |
Last week we were in CT and had an absolute 'mare...broken boards, a crashed car, delayed flights and a bunch of other stuff that just plain sucked. This week, the pendulum swung the other way. We arrived in J bay without too much hope of waves or anything else too exciting, just focusing instead on geting our graft done. To our surprise, not only did we manage to see a bunch of unexpectedly cool people, but we scored 4-5' Supers at lunchtime yesterday, in boardies with only 3 other guys out, we hit the sundown session as the swell dropped to a clean 3-4' but, we also managed to score some SICK accomodation....check this out:
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| Talking Story |
| 26 January 2010, 12:31 |
Back on the road, we're in J-Bay today. In our favorite J-Bay Deli, In-Food, home to the famous Apple Crumble Muffin, the best coffee in J-Bay and our old friend Steve Walsh. He's not really that old he just lives fast, ha ha. The surf is not great to be honest. Onshore with the occasional rain squall. So what do old surfers do when the surf is shitty and they're supposed to be at work? They talk story of course. I love talking surfing with Steve. He's so passionate and always has a unique perspective on things. We're joined by Ronnie Veldhuis, whose son Jarred is busy representing SA at the Worlds in NZ.
Today we were talking about the jnr surfers and young pros and the fact that there is a five star on at Pipeline (The Volcom Pipeline Pro) at the moment with not one Saffa in the mix, not one even entered! What the...? "That woulda never happened in Shaun's day" muses Steve. Add that to the fact that our WQS and WCT surfers are conspicuously absent on The North Shore in what must be the best winter in living memory. "MMnnn at least the Big Wave Crew are all over it" I add. It's funny how as you get older it always seems like we did it tougher than the kids of today are doing it. But did we really, what do you guys think? There are stories of guys sleeping in their boardbags at the beach, catching container ships to Hawaii and hiding out from Da Hui in the sugarcane fields. Were Shaun, Gavin, Pottz, the Lawsons, Spowey, Sims, Tostee and that crew more hard core than our current crop of pro surfers? If so what does the future hold for South African Pro surfing?
John |
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| Bodysurfing naked. |
| 24 January 2010, 19:26 |
This morning I got up reasonably early hoping to get a surf in before the day got too hot and the Bluebottles and Jellyfish took over the Durban beachfront with the expected NE winds. I had a couple of fun rides on my Alaia and had been out for about 25 mins before the bluebottles pulled in en mass and cut my session short. I bailed on the idea of surfing and decided to take my dogs for a walk instead. Every weekend (when I'm at home in DBN) I try and take them to this quiet beach out of town for a good run and swim. My dogs are the only living creatures I know who love the beach more than me so its always a good experience and usually leaves me feeling stoked. Unlike in town the surf on this quiet stretch of coastline was being fanned by a gentle side offshore breeze. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and the water was that translucent blue you sometimes see in the Cape except it was 25 degrees celcius. There were these fun little A-Frames spitting left and right all the way down the beach. I was gobsmacked. I hadn't brought a board as I wasn't expecting waves, I hadn't even brought baggies! As I walked down the beach throwing the stick for my dogs I mindsurfed all these beautiful little peaks. Half way back I cracked, I just couldn't take looking at these perfect waves any longer. I stripped off my gear and swam out to backline naked. There I spent half an hour bodysurfing the most fun waves imaginable, with only my three labradors as witnesses.
What a session. After the freezing water and wetsuits in CT last week it was like moving from the sublime to the ridiculous. It's funny how these moments hit you when you least expect it. One thing is for sure though as surfers we're blessed to be able to tap into the energy the ocean has to offer, even if it is just via a random bodysurf.
John
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| The right tools for the job |
| 22 January 2010, 08:04 |
The right tools for the job
Over the last three months I've enjoyed the challenge of learning to ride the Alaia. It's been a hell of a ride. I've had to get into shape to do it but its really stoked me out. I've ridden it all over the coast from Ponta through the Kei, down to J-Bay and in CT. It's increased my understanding of waves and surfing and made me far more sensitive to the nuances of conventional surfboards. The other day in CT we ran dow the Dunes and it was firing. 6' solid with a couple of bigger sets. The wind was howling offshore and the barrels were gaping. Guys were getting shacked silly and beaten senseless. It was just one of those sessions. As I prepared to paddle out Simone Robb (who was on the beach shooting) had a good chuckle and said "bru you are gonna get klapped on that thing". Turns out she was right. The current the wind and the size of the waves combined to make me realise the outer limit of the Alaia and me at this point in time. In an hour and a half I caught 3 waves and I got smashed on every single one. Later I spoke to Ian Armstrong about it. Ian's a man of few words all he said was "I use a 7'0" thruster when its like that down there". Next time I go surf down there and it's grinding, that's what I'm gonna use.
John
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| We're sorry! |
| 21 January 2010, 15:34 |
Hey Guys
You may remember in our spring issue we ran a feature on the new New Pier locals. It stirred up quite a bit of controversy at the time, but what we were not aware of was the damage that it caused to two organisations that are both active in attempting to rehabilitate and assist street children in Durban. Umthombo and Mahala have been working with these kids by using surfing (amongst other things) to get them off the streets and rehabilitate them into normal society. I recieved a mail from Tom (the CEO of Umthombo) the other day an excerpt of which is posted below.
“We want the children to be portrayed truthfully and...if there is going to be an article on them then you need to know Umthombo's programme as it is central to their lives. Strong opinions were published but no research was done to explore the possible difference between reality and the authors perceptions..... The damage that the article has done is to make local surfers feel that the kids are something negative. There are hardened attitudes towards them. The surfing programme has brought new hope to the lives of children that would otherwise be huddled on a corner sniffing glue. For some of them it has meant that they are no longer street kids. This has been done through merging surfing with progressive and pioneering social development principles based on therapeutic intervention. The key ingredient of all of this is the stoke derived from wave riding.”
Upon reflection we realise we may well have broadened the gap between the new New Pier locals and the regular locals when in fact the opposit was our intention. Also we've hampered the efforts of Umthombo and Mahala to help these kids as support for their initiatives has been compromised as a result of our feature.
For that we offer our sincere apologies to both parties.
Also we made some pretty heavy generalisations about street childen in the feature and while there may be some truth in them in the context of broader social issues, many of the things we said were not true about this specific goup of kids under Umthombos care. For that we also apologies to the children concerned.
We have undertaken to do a follow up feature in our June mag to see just how these kids are really doing and find out what positive impact surfimng has had on their lives.
We'd be interested in your views, so if you've read the feature and would like to pass some sensible or constructive comment we welcome it.
John
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| Mechanic schenanigans and sunset surfs |
| 20 January 2010, 23:04 |
We headed out to Gordon's Bay to see our mate Tim, who runs the Ocean Minded brand. He promised us he'd take us for an evening surf at one of the quiet beachies around the GBay area. We like Tim, he's cool. He doesn't stress much and unless he's in pursuit of waves is pretty chilled. Check out this pretty hilarious clip of our adventure last night!
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| One stoked ballie |
| 19 January 2010, 21:42 |
I just got to download my mails and saw all of Mike van Heerden's photo's of the Celebration of Peter Milne's life which happened today in Durban. The photos were not captioned, they didn't need to be. They told the story of a community celebrating the life of a special person and sharing in the loss of that person. We were prevented from being at the ceremony and paddle out but our thoughts are with the Milne's and Paynes today. Peter was a pioneer of SA surfing and a gentleman. I'll always remember him with his huge board when I was a grom and the crazy thing was he was just as stoked as me.
John
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| On the road again...CT this week |
| 19 January 2010, 11:36 |
So we're on the road again - Cape Town this week. Don't you hate it when everyone you meet from Cape Town is saying "Oh, you should have been here on the weekend, the weather was peeeeerfct". It's pouring with rain as we sit huddled over our Macbooks in the Kloof street vida e getting our daily fix - the usual BOMBsurf mobile office style. Looks like Insight have opened a really rad store across the road from vida since we were down here last..some new brands on the up and up by the looks of things.
The Insight store in Kloofneck street.

TheBOMBsurf mobile office...
Looks like a little pulse is building for CT tomorrow, nothing epic, but definitely gonna be some surf around. We'll be making some media while in CT and posting it on the site this week, so stay posted. If you live in CT, why not contact us and let's go surfing.
Iain
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| Shark solutions? |
| 14 January 2010, 10:44 |
There is something macabre about the way that technology these days allows us to 'be in the moment' of some dramatic happening when in reality we are 1000's of kms away. I remember watching a video online of some poor bastard being beheaded by masked extremists a couple of years ago. I was horrified, sickened and yet fascinated all at the same time. Tuesdays shark attack at Vishoek and the way that witnesses were able to twit about it immediately was like that, both sickening and fascinating. To say it was awful in the extreme would be a an understatement. Imagine that was your loved one and you were sitting on the beach as his girlfriend was? Trying to process that emotion defies imagination. There can't have been too many surfers who hearing that news didn't silently cross themselves and say a prayer (at least figuratively if not literally) and thank god that it wasn't them. Certainly there are positives to this. Sharing the knowledge of the fact that there is a big shark in the Vishoek/Kalk Bay area who eats people may help prevent another short term attack. Unfortunately the broader population just soak it up with ghoulish fascination. The knock on effect of this horrible happening is that the uneducated vilify all sharks and this is used to justify the slaughter of many innocent sharks to protect 'the public'. The irony here is that this particular shark was probably a Great White which is a protected species and has been for 10 years. So while we've been fishing a lot of harmless sharks out on the East Coast (along with some predators) the Great White shark population has exploded in the Cape. More people in the water, more Great Whites... there is a sense of inevitability about this.
There will be more shark attacks unless something is done about this. The big question is what and by who?
Personally I feel the City of Cape Town has a responsibility to it's residents and visitors to at least keep them informed of the risk variables and the current risk level of using the sea in certain areas.
I have some questions and would welcome some opinions or potential solutions.
Is the culling of Great Whites a solution?
Do shark nets work and would they work in Cape Town?
Where is the shark device and why have the government not got behind the industrialisation of that technology so that it can be deployed at beaches?
How able are we to communicate the build up of risk factors to the public?
Is it all about economics?
What do you guys think?
John
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| Fines for surfing the Wedge |
| 12 January 2010, 11:02 |
One of our BOMBsurf readers was threatened with a R1000 fine for surfing the Wedge in Cape Town this week:
"Hi Guys
Some mates and I where surfing the wedge in Cape Town the other day and got told to get out and threatened with a R1000 fine.
Anyone know anything about the legalities of surfing there? I know we are not supposed to surf there but can they actually fine us, can you help us out here?
Kind Regards,
JK"
Let us know if you can help?
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| Don't drop in! |
| 10 January 2010, 23:40 |
| This is what happened to the last ou who dropped in on me. You've been warned. LOL.
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| Stoke tanks overflowing |
| 9 January 2010, 18:13 |
Man, what a day of surfing! After months of foraging for scraps in the summer doldrums we hit the payload yesterday. I can't remember when I last surfed for six and a half hours in one day, but by the end of the day we were kieshed, sunburned, dehydrated and the stoke tanks were overflowing. I had two sessions, one on my Alaia and one on my regular thruster. To surf such good waves on the Alaia was both exhilarating and humbling. It was exhilarating because of the new places I could get to on a wave and the speed was unbelievable. Humbling because after months of surfing slop on the Alaia I thought I was getting it figured out when in fact on such perfect waves I realised I have so much more to learn. To be honest my skill level on the Alaia wasn't up to the quality of the waves but it was a huge learning curve. The amazing thing was when I finally got onto my regular board I felt so in tune with the wave. The barrels, carves and hacks which had eluded me on the Alaia just seemed to happen so easily. My point? Riding an Alaia gives you an intuitive sense of what is going on with the wave and as a result when you get back onto your regular board you seem to just flow more easily with it. Check out the Alaia session here http://www.thebombsurf.com/thebombsurfvideos/520/speed-testing-the-alaia-in-south-africa. Its amazing when you share good waves with some friends how much more memorable the experience is. I saw some truly epic rides yesterday. Iain and George (my two traveling companions) both got some epic rides but the ride of the day belonged to Chappy. My word what a wave! What a way to start the year.
Wherever you were yesterday I hope you got some sweet ones.
John
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| Do fins really make a difference? |
| 8 January 2010, 17:36 |
I never thought fins really made a HUGE difference in my surfing until recently. I am an average surfer, so my philosophy was that a very slight tweak to my fins setup wouldn't really have too much of an impact on my surfing. Yesterday, I changed my mind on the matter.
John, myself and our accomplice, George, launched a surgical strike looking for waves. I took 2 boards on the mission - my usual 6'6 and a new 7'0 gun. The surf was a solid 4-6' and as I watched the reeling rights from the beach, I was computing which board to ride and which fins to use. The Wave was big, but it wasn't super hollow just nice, steep, open wave faces.
In my first session, I surfed the 6'6 with FCS M5s - an injection moulded composite fin, hence some flexibility:
Base: 4 5/8” 116mm
Depth: 4 5/8” 118mm
Sweep: 33 degrees
I had such a session! Lots of drive off the bottom, on my backhand and I was able to really draw a nice even arc off the top for a fast and smooth re-entry. It felt amazing. I was reveling in the conditions and in how well my equipment was working! After 2 and a half hours we paddled in for a chow and a 45 min rest.
From the beach we could see the swell was peaking - glassy 6ft perfection running forever down the point. I swapped boards and took out the 7'0 gun. This time I fitted it with slightly smaller fins: FCS M3s. The smaller brother of the M5s as follows:
Base: 4.28” 109mm
Depth: 4.41” 112mm
Sweep: 31 degrees
Left to right: M5, M3 & PG5.
Such tiny differences to the eye, such a huge difference in the water!
It worked beautifully - The 7'0 gun gave me a bit more volume to paddle into the larger set waves easily (which was a good thing since I was pretty kieshed after the first session!) and to my surprise, the smaller fins allowed me to really maneuver the gun around the face of the wave and I still managed to draw those nice big sweeping turns, bottom to top all the way down the line.
I also had a set of FCS PG5s with me - very hard and rigid performance glass fins. I've surfed these in similar conditions on the 6'6 and I battled to turn my board, as they had such a tight purchase into the wave face - I guess I'l have to save these for those really hollow barreling days, when all you want to do is make the drop and get into the tube and rely on those rigid fins to hold that tight line in the tube under severe pressure!
So what I'm saying to all the surfers out there who are my kind of level - talk to your shaper or whoever you get your fins from and try some fins with different depth, base, sweep and most importantly, rigidity. You'll be surprised at the difference it makes!
I'd love to hear what you people are doing with your fins and what kind of difference it's made.
Iain
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| Searching |
| 7 January 2010, 22:29 |
Searching
As anyone who has lived through the last few months in KZN will tell you the surf and weather have been less than idyllic. True we've made do with the fun little bowls in town and the odd session up and down the coast, but we haven't had real surf for ages even though cyclone season is just around the corner. Gazing at the charts this week revealed a multitude of options for surf starved surfers all over SA. The West Coast and the East Coast both look good for waves. So we set up a mission and pulled the trigger yesterday. Now we're ensconced at our location and the swell hasn't arrived...yet we hope. That's the thing about all the wave tracking technology these days. You still don't really know until you wake up and see it with your own eyes. I hope wherever you are tomorrow is cranking and that you score. Best wishes for 2010.
John
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| Solidarity is the key! |
| 5 January 2010, 21:48 |
We woke up early and hit the South Coast. John, myself, Mark and Brendan. We favoured a quiet little point break where the banks were looking good - no one else out except the Doc, as usual. John and I surfed our Alaias and Mark and Brends favoured the regular shortboards. It was a classic session, clean and glassy and although a fullish tide, when the right one came through it was nice steep drop, a walling top section, through one flattish bit and then racing through on the inside bank. I was really amping to surf my regular shortboard, as the prospect of swimming after the Alaia for a few hundred meters didn't appeal to me, but before I knew it, John was off the bricks and I thought, "What the heck" and joined him in solidarity! Turned out to be the right move - the guys on the shortboards picking out the biggest set waves from the back, while John and I caught the better shaped insiders. I saw John do a full roundhouse cut back- to slide- re-entry on a really steep section - the dude is ripping! Mark and Brendan were doing some crazy shit out there too - My favourite move was Brendan's Reverse left take off - to right swoop. I thought he took off straight onto the bricks, but he actually made it and ripped all the way down the point. Eish! Charts are looking good for the rest of the week...think there's going to be waves all over the coastline in the next 3-4 days. Get on it people!
Iain
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| Every cloud has one... |
| 4 January 2010, 20:01 |
It's been hectic down at the beachfront over this past NY long weekend. I didn't dare venture down on New Year's day, mainly because I was incredibly hung over, but also because we were warned the night before that it was going to be carnage on the 1st. Not even the hardened Guardian Angels stuck around for NY's day. Judging by the photo in the Independent on Saturday - apparently 60 000 people swarmed to the beach. Anyway, Myself and my mate Brendan went down for a surf on Sunday...you'd think 2 days would be ample time to get the beach back into shape, but nope - it was still carnage down there. We had a surf at Wedge - there was a slopey little wave coming through which was such fun on the Alaia - but in the bathing area it was all still Vuvuzelas, singing and mass chaos leaping in unison over every breaker. Not that there's anything wrong with that - it's just the pressure on the infrastructure down there which is already in a mess due to all the construction that makes it difficult. The good news is that there were only 2 other surfers between Wedge and the whole of South Beach! A silver lining after all....
Iain
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