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| On the road again... |
| 30 September 2009, 09:15 |
The road trip continues! We're leaving Jeffrey's this morning and heading down the coast toward Cape Town. The forecast doesn't look great for waves, but we might find something on the way down.
These last 2 days in J Bay have been so cool. On Monday morning the surf was pretty big and sectiony with some big barrels ridden, and the afternoon session was also fun. Yesterday's dawnie was really cool - a good vibe in the water, some great surfing and just a beautiful morning with beautiful waves.
We've had a really good three days in J Bay, catching up with friends, seeing our contributors and connecting with our advertisers down here. Last night we had a small get together in the Penthouse of African Perfection - the accommodation overlooking Supertubes - and it must be the best surfing accommodation in the world. Check these images out!
Iain
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| That ONE waves makes it all good! |
| 27 September 2009, 22:50 |
Even on those days when everything is going really badly - that one good wave can salvage everything. I had a shocker today. Firstly the swell that was supposed to bring 5-6 ft waves didn't arrive. We surfed with about 25 people pretty much on the bricks in little runners that didn't link up. On the waves I did get I surfed like a tool and I just couldn't get the rhythym going. A grumpy local was making life unhappy for most people, plus the wind and rain didn't do much for the SOH.
In the afternoon session, I had to climb into a wet and cold wetsuit and was thinking "Oh Boy, this isn't going to be fun". We surfed from about 4pm till it was dark, and just as the crowd started to thin out, the tide started to pulse a little and with the pushing tide, a couple of gems started rolling through.
I managed to paddle into one of the cleanest, biggest, most perfect waves of the evening and it just ran and ran and ran. It was fast, but sooooo perfect and as I raced along it linking the sections, up my legs started to burn, but it kept on peeling ahead of me, inviting me to keep going. After what felt like ages, my legs buckled and I couldn't finish the reo back into the wave and I fell off the back...I sank down into the sea...happy.
What a great day.
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| PE, then onto JBAY |
| 26 September 2009, 22:46 |
We cruised into PE yesterday evening, in time to catch up with Kerry Wright - some of you may remember her as the author of the "Climate Change" feature in the last issue of theBOMBsurf and also as the lady responsible for the Enviro side of things at the Billabong Pro in JBay this year. We had a really cool chat with her and watched the Rugby at her flat overlooking Miller's point - on possibly the biggest TV screen ever invented. This pad should be on MTV Cribs.
Kerry was explaining some really interesting things that are going on in the "greening" of World surfing, some ideas to generate alternative energy sources using the ocean currents and also the challenges facing our country's leadership when it comes to green issues. Interesting indeed.
If you want to know more, visit her website at http://www.cleanerclimate.com/
We then drove through to JBAY in the dark, but arrived in time to watch the Hot Wasabi Blues band at The Lounge. Again, those of you who were at the Billabong Pro this year will know how these guys rock! Our good friends Steve Walsh, who sings plays guitar and blues harp in the band is 56 years old...and is rocking out harder than ever.
Hoping for waves tomorrow....
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| Another epic BOMBsurf roadtrip is underway |
| 26 September 2009, 19:38 |
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Another epic BOMBsurf roadtrip is underway! We hit the road before dawn yesterday and made a beeline straight to for the land of milk and honey at the Coffee Shack! As soon as we arrived we hit the surf and had a fun session the point and then the beachie with legendary Coffee Shack surf instructor, Ryno. In the afternoon we took a drive down to Hole in the Wall, where John was amped to try and surf through the hole!
Then we headed back to the Coffee Shack where the Party was in full swing already! Gorgeous girls, ice cold beer, a trance party (across the road), the Buffalo bar at the Coffee Shack was cranking and the people were partying HARD! We had an awesome dinner with Dave and Belinda (and young Josh!) and far too many beers - then hit the jol!
What a cool vibe, a cool bunch of travelers and a cool place to be on a Friday night in Africa!
This morning we rinsed the fog out of the cockpit with a swim in perfectly clear but freezing water of the estuary - When we eventually forced ourselves to leave, we found we had a flat tyre...which we eventually got fixed by these guys about an hour outside coffee bay:
The real dirty half dozen!
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| dedication, focus and absolutely terrible surf |
| 24 September 2009, 08:29 |
As any Durban surfer can attest the surf over the last couple of days has been terrible. It's been howling onshore and raining, this morning though a brief respite from the rain thank goodness! Anyway yestrday evening just before dark i did a driveby North Beach more out of habit than anything else. The Durban beachfront right now looks like a warzone. There is wire fencing everywhere, huge holes in the boardwalk and the remains of old buildings lie demolished all around you. Not exactly a hospitable setting - and the surf was on it's head. As i was about to leave I saw Travis Logie run past me suited up and ready to go. I couldn't believe anyone would want to surf in that mess but thought to myself what the hell and suited up to go and join him. We paddled out into the far bowl at North Beach to find Angus (hardcore North Beach local) already out there. Shortly afterwards we were joined by Brandon Jackson. Angus and I were treated to an incredible display of surfing by our two QS contenders. Brandon and Travis tore into that bowl like men possesed. The thing that struck me about the experience was how much fun they were having. It wasn't like it was just a grit your teeth training session. Sure the dedication and focus was there to get them out there in the first place but they were frothing! The stoke was contagious and I left the water on dark a happy man. I'm happier still with the thought of arriving in Coffee Bay tomorrow...
John
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| Surfing Doctors talk in JBay |
| 22 September 2009, 07:52 |
Some of you may have heard about Surfing Doctors (www.surfingdoctors.com). They are a close-knit group of like-minded individuals who have filtered out of various specialities and areas of medicine to combine the love of two totally different passions; the surfing sport and lifestyle, and a lifelong career in medicine.
The group have already proven themselves in various arenas and the common theme is that they are prepared to go over and above the call of duty for their fellow man in need with no expectation of financial reward.
One of their main focuses is on educating surfers and other beach users in the areas of basic first aid and life support- answering those questions about what to do if someone injures themselves or collapses in the water or on the beach.
Dr. Preeti Nirgude has offered to do a talk in J Bay on these topics, with time for questions and answers.
J Bay Boardriders club will be hosting the evening on Thursday November 19th, 7p.m. at Potter’s Place. If you or your surfing mates are going to be in the area and want to attend, please keep that date available and spread the word. It is bound to be of great value to us as a community.
Dr Preeti is also going to help us get a proper first aid box particular to surf related injuries
There will not be a cover fee for the evening but the JBBC will ask for donations towards medical box(es) which will be kept at Supers and hopefully a second one somewhere at Point.
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| The art of surfing |
| 20 September 2009, 23:24 |
My friend Tayla and I were debating if "anything can be art". Her argument was that it's not so much about the work itself as long as the concept is a good one within a certain context, whereas as my take is that fundamentally art is an aesthetic expression of an idea - and the better the expression, the better the art. Surfing is a lot like that. I think the similarities are in the fact that anyone can surf. I surf, you surf, we all surf. Similarly, I can slap some paint on a canvas, but it certainly doesn't make it art. So what makes surfing an art? Is it the lines we "draw", the style and grace with which we move? Or is it the mere act of being able to ride a wave standing up on a surfboard? Watching people like Frankie O, Simon Nicholson or Sean Holmes can be a beautiful, almost breathtaking sight. Then again, the contest side of surfing is exactly that - who surfed "the best". In art, the status quo is set movement by movement, period by period and it takes a radical shift in style, technique or concept to break away from what is considered art. I wonder if the equivalent will happen in surfing and if so how and when?
What do you think?
Iain
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| Alaia shaping |
| 18 September 2009, 11:45 |
Today was a pretty horrid day for surf in KZN. The optimists in Town were scratching around the piers - but there wasn't much on offer. John and I decided to hit the coast early to see what we could find. It was dark, windy, stormy and raining. We paddled out at our usual favourite point break - the only two guys out - and proceeded to get pounded, washed around and slapped by a few grumpy close-outs. Not much to write home about unfortunately. At least we had the dolphins for company.
After work, we went down to Clayton's shaping bay to see how he was getting on. When we arrived he was shaping our Alaia. This has been a fascinating project. The blanks cost around R2000 - they're a special Paulowina wooden blanks - and you have to hand shape them yourself - which is part of the fun! But it ain't easy! There is a DVD which comes each blank and you can get loads of info on the net, but when it actually comes down to putting tools to wood - it's another story.
Clay had done a good job with the jigsaw, getting the blank into a decent shape - then when we arrived - John and Clay started sanding, scraping, burrowing out the channels and working the blank into it's desired form. Then we mixed ingredients to treat the wood (you'll be suprised by what's in it), gave it a good coat and stood back to admire the finished product. Click here to see the full slide show. If you haven't seen these Alaia boards yet - you'll start to see them popping up at your local break in the next few weeks. there are only a limited number of the blanks that were brought in, and all have been sold out already, but Soul Tree Surf co, the guys who import them to SA have assured us the next batch are arriving soon.
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| Skunked |
| 15 September 2009, 22:49 |
What is the best form of surf prediction? Most of us would say the internet. Even within the limitless info and resources on the WWW we still get it wrong though. I had to remind my esteemed partner of this fact an hour into our drive before dawn this morning, when the early morning light revealed a 2-3ft, east swell with a brisk easterly churning up the ocean, rather than the 4-5ft, SW swell with a light west blowing!! With our tail between our legs, we negotiated the rush hour traffic going back into town, and surfed the washing machine of an ocean, while the North Beach coffee shop crew laughed at us from the safety of the Milky Lane awnings. Even Jean the car guard was laughing at us.
Which begs the question...If you can't rely on the internet, what can you rely on?
There was vehement discussion about the accuracy of sites lately, which ones are the best to use, the unstable global weather patterns, how unpredictable September is for surf in KZN etc etc
So what do you BOMBfans use? Is it Wavescape, magic seaweed, Windguru, your granny's flaring knees...is it not an online solution at all?
We'd love to hear from you guys and girls out there.
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| Surf anywhere |
| 14 September 2009, 22:23 |
Hey BOMBsurfers, I'm back from my Euro trip. Did you miss me?
One of the things I was was contemplating while sipping an ice cold Czech beer and enjoying the evening sunshine at 8pm CET, was just how far surf culture has permeated through our global village - as far inland as Paris, Rome and even Prague. I was acutely aware of anyone wearing surf branded clothes, but what really caught my attention was this:
This is the only billboard in the Piazza del Popolla in Rome - and it is HUGE:
If you can't read the text, it says "Surf anywhere"
Doesn't that strike you as weird? I saw this billboard in Rome and in Paris, in various forms and considering the Italians and French consider themselves to be fashionistas deluxe, you know the Pradas, Armanis and D&G's of this world. Especially in Italy - I mean - how many Italian surfers have you met from Rome? Europe is soccer crazy, so understandably a lot of the youth wore football brands more than surf brands...but you gotta admit - the surf brands are giving it a full go!
It was very much a cultural trip for me, so haven't surfed in two weeks, but hit a firing little bank today on my return and it was so good to be back in the water, I hit it again in the arvo. Damn it's good to be in the sea again!
Iain
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| Like Father, like son. |
| 12 September 2009, 20:24 |
Like father like son.
Today I surfed a really heavy beachbreak, about 150m North of the Cave Rock reef. Clayton was out there with a couple of groms and they were all charging! The wave was breaking below sea level on some and it was spitting all over the place. Because of the south swell direction Cave Rock would light up before the sets would find their way onto our peak. This afforded me the opportunity of watching the guys at The Rock and in front of the pool pull into some serious barrels. I immediately picked out Rudy Palmboom SNR's style and not long after that Rudy JNR's. The two were just trading waves and dominating the lineup. They were all over it like it was their back yard, which I suppose it is. It must be an amazing thing to surf with your father or your son in waves of consequence like that and be the two best guys out there hands down. Respect to them both and what a cool thing to watch.
John
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| RIP Post Surf, Lewis Samuels calls it a day |
| 10 September 2009, 23:35 |
What is Post Surf and who is Lewis Samuels?
Lewis Samuels
Not much is really known about Lewis himself other than he was fired by Surfline for (amongst other things) being critical of Billabong president, Paul Naude. Lewis burst into our consciousness with the Power Rankings on Surfline.
They were a no holds barred take down of the top 44, and in my opinion very entertaining to read.
After being fired from Surfline he started Post Surf as a place to host his unnofficail Power Rankings and he spread his crit to industry created icons of every kind. He was fearless and spared no one. With post surf came a whole lot of bitterness and anger and at times I found him a bit OTT, but it was also funny and very entertaining.
His second last post was very interesting, go check it out http://postsurf.com/2009/09/02/modern-complaints/
RIP Post Surf.
John |
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| Hidden Gems in J-Bay |
| 9 September 2009, 08:53 |
I've been coming to J-Bay for 25 years. Over the last two and a half decades I've watched this town change slowly as it becomes more developed, but despite that it has retained its small town friendliness and laid back feel. Of course the waves are the primary draw card for visiting surfers. But what do you do when you are not in the surf?
When I first came here we stayed in Vans caravans and ate the biggest Chelsea buns in the world made at the bakery around the corner. If you wanted to get loose you went to the Savoy hotel. Nowadays the Mexican is where you go to misbehave and you are spoiled for choice with good restaurants, my favourite being In-Food. Apart from the insane freshly baked bread and patented wok omelettes they make the best cappuccino in J-Bay.
| Belinda, best barista in the business |
Actually I'd go so far as to say they make one of the best cappuccinos in SA! Belinda, who works there, has got to be one of the best baristas in the business. If you are a coffee fiend like me you appreciate knowing things like this that's why I'm passing it on. They are located just opposite the fruit and vet market one block back from Da Gama rd at J-Bay's only traffic light.
| Andy and Juanita, best boots in the business |
Then there are Andy and Juanita from In-Step. Their business is totally unrelated (as far as I can tell) from In-food, apart from the quality of their offerings. They make shoes and belts. They've been making the real McCoy J-Bay version of The Ugg boot for over 20 years. Andy worked with the late Ant van der Heuwel, learning and refining the craft of putting together a real quality boot. They now also do leather sandals and belts. Walking into their store (in surf village at the end of Da Gama Road, next door to the Country Feeling store) one gets a sense of the pride they take in what they do. I was blown away by the quality of the product on display. You just don't get shops like this in Durban or Cape Town. In 25 years of coming here I can't believe I never knew about their store!

Finally I met Neville. Neville has developed a special type of wax with a closely guarded formula. Not surprisingly its called 'J-Bay Wax'. Available right now only in J-Bay and only if you know Neville and ONLY if he likes you enough to make some for you. This stuff is unbelievably sticky, resistant to absorbing sand and doesn't melt if left on your dashboard. Rumour has it that certain top surfers who come to town for the big events insist on using his wax while in J-Bay and try and take as much with them as they can when they leave.
So if you find yourself in J-Bay at a loose end between sessions check out In-Food, In-Step and J-Bay Surf Wax. I'm pretty sure these three hidden gems will make your day like they made mine.
John
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| Room with a view |
| 6 September 2009, 15:13 |
The Super Gnarly BOMBsurf Wetsuit Revue, stage two now testing...
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For the past couple of days I've been holed up in J-Bay on the second leg of our three part wetsuit test. I've been trying out different suits in every session trying to determine the pro's and cons of each suit. More about the actual suits and how they fared when the completed revue is released online at the end of September. The attached pic is the view from my base in the self catering unit at African Perfection. Not a bad place to work from! Without giving away too much regarding the suits I must say this has been a fascinating experience. it's incredible how wetsuit technology has progressed in recent times. If you know what you are doing there is absolutely no reason to be cold or uncomfortable these days.
John
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| Who has the coolest surf jammie? |
| 1 September 2009, 19:14 |
Who has the coolest surf jammie?

So I arrive in the North Beach car park yesterday and pull up next to this unbelievable jammy. It's a rusted old bakkie with a canopy and the South African flag painted on the one side. Iron bars for roofracks, and a poster taped to the back window of a gnarly black dude looking out. I couldn't help myself and had to have a closer look. On the wooden tailgate of the bakkie was emblazoned 'Transkei Limo Rentals', underneath that was 'limo:R25/day & 1/2 chicken (free). I peered into the back of the bakkie. Strewn around the interior were the clear makings of a traveling surfer. Boardbags, leashes a big foam matrass and a bra innocently dangling from the one window ledge. It's the single coolest cabbie I've seen in the North Beach car park for sometime. Intrigued I asked Jean the car guard who's car it was. Just then the owners arrived fresh from their surf. A guy and a girl, we introduced ourselves and so I met Tegan and Eva. They were from J-Bay but just having a wander around our coast. No real timeframe, just surfing and hanging out. In fact they were so cool I had a passing thought that they might even out-Roosta Roosta for their laid back surfing outlooks, if that's possible! After we'd chatted for a while it turns out that Tegan had helped hook us up in J-Bay with the awesome home we stayed in over the Billabong Pro. To see pictures of the house just check the banners on this page. Anyway cooler people you won't meet so if you see them in your hood say hi and invite them over for a beer at the least give them a wave. If you have a cooler surf jammie than this one send it to us at crew@thebombsurf.com Winner receives 2 nights at The Coffee Shack on us!
John
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