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| The shark attack blues |
| 31 August 2009, 22:57 |
The Shark Attack blues
What are the first thoughts that go through your head when you hear there has been a shark attack?
Mine are 'Oh f@#k, who?', then 'Where?', then 'How bad?'.
If it's a surfer and it's fatal I then think about his family and the crushing grief that is about to pour down upon them. Try as I may I somehow can't stop imagining what it would be like in those seconds when its all going down. It's like some kind of perversely macabre nightmare, but its real and its just happened to someone and if you surf it could happen to you too.
After the initial wave of shock has passed through me and the shivers have stopped going up my spine I try to find solace in the idea that he was doing what he loved. I cling to that really really hard despite the fact that it seems a tad shallow and frankly a little worn out. 'But what about his friends and family!' My mind screams at me. 'What about the fact that he was young and still in the prime of his life!' Then the anger takes over, anger at the injustice in the world, at god, at anything. It's not a rational anger. It burns white hot for a while, then burns itself out leaving a lingering sense of unreality. Then a car hoots, a cell phone rings. The everyday sounds and thoughts start filtering their way back into my consciousness. I keep thinking about his family and friends but slowly the fog of normality rolls over everything and I get on with my day.
What caused that shark attack? Was it overfishing? Was it the chumming and shark cage diving? Was it just fate and his time to go? Was it a mistake?
Even if you could confidently answer those questions it wouldn't bring him back. Is there any way we can learn from it? Could we somehow find a way that through our knowledge we can reduce or even eliminate future attacks?Are shark nets and drumlines the answer? Or does that just f@#k up the eco system more, resulting ironically in more shark attacks and a greater damage to our marine wildlife?
Later, much later I may wake in the early hours of the morning and ponder the relationship that man has with nature. My rational subconscious is probing and worrying, looking for a solution. Humans are supposed to have it all figured out, except sometimes we don't. We're supposed to be so clever, but sometimes we don't have all the answers.
Our condolences go out to the family and friends of Gerhard van Zyle who passed away on Saturday as a result of the injuries he sustained in a Shark attack while surfing at Glentana.
John
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| One on one with - Dungeons Keeper - Grant Spooner. |
| 29 August 2009, 08:03 |
1. You’ve had a busy time over the last two weeks with 4 defined swells hitting Dungeons and some incredible rides going down. Anything jump out at you as a specific highlight?
The waves on Sunday were special due to the crisp cleanness of the day. Some of the barrels that day were remarkable, reeling for ages and then gassing long and hard. I heard one particular wave crack down so hard that I was reduced to goose bumps... a very good thing indeed that no one was any where near it, pretty sure it would have blown all body orifices out !!!
2. You’ve been involved in taking guys out to surf Dungeons from the beginning of Red Bull BWA, that’s over 10 years now. You must have seen some pretty wild stuff in that time. What are some of the craziest things?
You can rely on something crazy every time! Potentially the most hardcore situation ever was when some of the big charter boats came too close and almost got carrotted by a wide set, plenty passengers on deck, would have been xxxl catastrophic.
Also the whole set up is crazy, crazy big wave enthusiasts, crazy massive waves, The absolutely crazy raw beauty of the place. I think its the whole ensemble that nurtures all of our love affair with the place. Fortunately most sessions have been documented pretty well because I would need time to sift through all the moments of crazy Sensory Overload that are common to experience out there.
| Spoon & Whalesong punting a wide one BWA2006 |
3. Most people who’ve never been to Dungeons have no idea of the infrastructure required to facilitate sessions out there. There are boats, skis and coms between the guys its one hell of an operation. Could you tell us a bit more about the ‘behind the scenes logistics of surfing Dungeons’?
Firstly, I would ask all the people out there to realise that you got to be pretty Falkenbergian to even think about the paddle from the shore...but the mullets still did it, not something I would recommend. I wouldn't, if you lose or snap your board you are in for a swim that you'll never forget if you live to remember!!! With the start of the Red Bull BWA event we managed to pioneer, develop, nurture and fine tune the boat based logistics for surf sessions with meticulous and uncompromising focus on safety. We literally built up the most substantial and proficient boat based event infrastructure in the world. With Shawn Alladios' K38 training in the beginning, and the constant dedication of the Water Safety Team members we stepped up to the plate and established what have now become norms and standards of operation in the big surf realm locally. We've been called the best in the world by Shawn herself.
Dungeons should be accessed by boat for many reasons it’s just that simple. Having a suitable boat in attendance adds a very substantial safety factor into the line-up, an ability to respond timeously to any of the many possible distress situations that could, and have played themselves out there everytime it is surfed, tow or paddle. Big or 'small'. It must be said that over the years I've witnessed many unsuitable boats come close to the line-up, this is fine if they give the surf zone a wide berth, however I've witnessed a few very close calls with skippers not showing due respect. Through TSSA it is now possible for members to transport themselves out to the line-up using PWC's. All the members and skis adhere to the safety guidelines as stipulated, thus embracing a safety conscious approach to sessions. It has been the successful working together of the support boats and PWC operators that have resulted in certain distress situations over the years having had a happy ending!
We are fortunate that the Dungeons line-up is pretty close to Hout Bay harbour with it's slipway, fuel, NSRI, coffee, food and beer facilities. Casualties can also be dealt with quickly and efficiently with the harbour so close by.
| Marine Scene Fleet for Red Bull BWA2008 |
4. Your business, Marine Scene, has played a pivotal role in the facilitation of these sessions over the years, can you tell us a little about the equipment you use and why it’s suitable for Dungeons?
To my mind RIB's (Rigid Inflatable Boats) are by far the most safe, versatile and capable boats for use in any technical and / or extreme operations...Why? The pontoons afford these boats unrivaled bouyancy and stability and maneuverability. The rigid hulls afford them the rigidity to travel at high speed through very rough water. I have used the Gemini RIBs my whole career and rate them as by far the best in the country, if not the world! Ask anyone who’s been on our boats about their ability to handle the extreme sea states we work in. All my Gemini boats are built to military spec. With the correct engines these boats are unbelievably capable and safe. I choose Yamaha for their unerring reliability. I can't afford to compromise on reliability and performance for obvious reasons. In 10 years of operations in large surf, I'm yet to experience engine or boat failure. Obviously diligent maintenance and constant pre and post operation checks are imperative. Yamaha Waverunners have also earned themselves a very solid reputation in our operations.
| Marine Scene Fleet for Red Bull BWA2008 |
5. On a personal level you’ve been referred to as the ‘Dungeons Keeper’, you certainly seem to have a deep affinity for the place, why is that?
I feel it is my humble and extremely deep adoration of our whole coastline that gives me the ability to ‘plug-in' to certain places and develop a long term relationship with them. Dungeons is such a special dynamic place, it has a thousand moods. So close to civilisation, but so far from being civilised, you can safely assume that this piece of coast will never be tamed. In the longterm I've challenged myself to be 'on it' when ever the ocean gets huge. I suppose its a place of worship for me and the brothers. Any place left that is still truly wild is to be treasured, deeply!! A Dungeon is an oceanic wonder of sorts.
| Spoon takes Washburn & Young to Dungeons |
6. Can you talk us through what its like to operate a boat in the lineup at Dungeons and give some insight into the reef set up, where the water flows and how the wave changes on different swell directions?
To start, I'm proud to say my boat is a beast, and I pre and post ops check it every time we work! I've carefully but constantly explored the capabilities of my boat in large surf situations. I like nothing more than to have a solo R&D session out there, put the boat into situations and gauge the response. I believe that by doing this carefully over the years it has honed my instincts in the zone, and also allowed my boat to become an extension of my body. Out there it is constant alertness combined with instant responses that keep one just out of trouble and mayhem. Yes I do take pride in staying close but keeping it safe.
I am obviously more cautious with pax on board, the heavier the boat with pax and gear, the slower the hole-shot, the wider we sit away from the zone.
We'll start outside with the two indicator reefs Tafelberg & Vulcan Rock. These reefs play a very significant role in refracting swells that are bound for Dungeons line-up. We have now realised that they have a very positive effect on the surf if the swell direction is WSW. they basically focus the energy right onto the Dunny reef and cause what is known as positive reinforcement to occur = XXL awards.
Low tides are generally best and when the waves are most defined and top to bottom. Light winds are also necessary, strong winds are very dangerous there and should be avoided. We've also learnt that there is a rip that develops on the inside whenever it is solid, 9 times out of 10 we’ll find lost boards and people somewhere in it. It flows past the base of the Sentinel all the way into the mouth of Hout Bay, when it's huge this rip becomes a river, radical to see.
7. Recently there was a hell of a scare when Reinhardt Fourie went missing for 45 mins during a tow session there. The search and rescue mobilisation was amazing, but I believe some of the senior guys sat down afterwards to see if they could glean some positives from that experience could you tell us a little bit about that?
Super stoked we found Rei, I had prepared myself to find a friend floating face down, pretty heavy! Ask Rei how hard I hugged him when we found him. We have learned to turn all experiences out there into opportunities to progress the safety and proficiency of all factors and people concerned. We had a TSSA meeting to de-brief the situation and we will be stipulating the inclusion of some additional personnel and PWC safety equipment. The most obvious reason for Rei not being found sooner was the fact that he was wearing a black wetsuit with a black hood and a black pfd (personal flotation device), expect to see some rad retro dayglow colours on the lads soon. When we picked him up he looked like a Navy diver ready for night ops, with large dollops of creamy-browny foam all over him, fully camo.
In summary for personal safety: high viz attire, military 'pea-less' whistles attached to pfd = sound signaling, pencil flares or smoke flares = visual signaling (researching tbc). Simple but critically important!
8. From a safety perspective what is the biggest challenge operating at Dungeons?
Staying out the way of the pitching lips and walls of foamies that always seem hungry for victims! Also very stressfull when other spectator boats in the channel unknowingly block escape routes for us, only within the formality of the BWA event did we have the power & control to police and direct spectator craft to avoid unsafe congestion. In the free-surf sessions some of the boats can get a bit loose and challenge those around them. Also dudes paddling to or from the line-up are a point of concern for me; they can be ridden over by boats and also face the possibility of an investigation by one of the toothy locals. Dungeons is a very challenging place!!!
| Spoon & crew close up and personal with Dungeons BWA2008 |
9. You often have guys like Nic Bothma, and Brenton Geach on board, in fact between the three of you with you driving and them shooting you’ve been responsible for documenting most of the seminal sessions that have taken place out there. You must have had some funny experiences with those guys, any you want to share with us?
Ja we're all always so amped and there is always such an abundance of excitement out there that we're constantly babbling and making cracks. It's also cool how the ous are constantly stopping at the boat on their way back out and we always have a good chuckle often at their expense when they've had a carrot. On the more serious side the amp level is important to keep us focused on the task at hand and in hyper alert mode, not the place to be daydreaming when. They are cool ou's and living proof that works can be very fun & very serious at the same time.
10. There was an episode with Gigs on the boat a while back when you nearly got caught inside can you tell us a little about that?
Ja, high speed evasive maneuvering at close quarters in a high surf zone is pretty serious and stressfully stuff! It's in situations like that, that ones training, experience and instinct take over. Basically I was multi-tasking on the BWA event comms, hands full, a second of distraction a slightly wider one stood-up and I had to make some very quick assessments of viable escape routes applying K38 training basics "seconds & feet". My boat is very responsive and fortunately I chose the correct line fully aware that it meant giving Gigs a close shave, fortunately Gigs was also quick to act and his moving opened up my route progressively. It was close but I would say not quite as close as some people thought. Those who have spent enough time with me on "Whalesong" know that the boat is obscenely capable and flourishes in the face of oceanic adversity. I think the years of practicing and familiarising myself with the boats capabilities and handling paid off, I’m proud of that, all's well that ends well. In the 2008 event I had my assistant handling my radios, phone, vhf etc allowing me to keep focused, got to embrace mistakes as learning opportunities!
| Spoon & Washburn riding Dungeons 2007 |
11. You are a passionate conservationist, what role do you think surfers can play in the protection of our environment and marine resources?
I would go a step further and call myself an “Oceanarian", our ocean realm means almost everything to me. Whilst there are alot of very conscious surfers who do what they can when they can and are very committed, I feel there are alot of surfers who need to "skrik wakker" and realise that everyday there are individuals, groups & companies who are perpetrating acts either knowingly or unknowingly contributing to the destruction of the ocean as we know it. We live in an information age; there are very few excuses for ignorance, and no excuses for indifference. We all need to do whatever we can to help our oceans survive the pressure our species is putting on it. We who live to surf, fish, dive, Kite, etc must realise that by acting now and doing what we can to help the preservation of our oceans as much as we each can everyday, and it is we who can proudly claim to be part of the solution and not the problem. However those who do very little or nothing and continue to enjoy their time in the ocean can be termed parasites. It starts at home... are your soaps and household chemicals enviro friendly every coastal town drain flows into the ocean. Do you try pick up litter on the beach, in the water, on and on and so forth. To my mind all ocean users need to educate themselves and empower themselves and their friends family to do what they can... every little positive action is very important to the bigger picture.
12. When not driving boats you’ve been known to pull into some thick slabs yourself, what’s your local?
I used to live and die for K-bay, I have a very close relationship with the redbait colony and know most the little beasties on the reef by their first name. I've broadened my horizons and regard the entire Cape Peninsula as a play ground and place of worship. We are so blessed with so many waves that'll challenge every aspect of your competence and bravery... I must also state that I hold in high regard my braddas an sistas from Hout Bay/ Llandudno and surrounds. For the record I do believe very strongly in positive localism and feel that all wave riders owe it to themselves and their fellows around to know the "unwritten rules" and their reason for being. Some so-called locals are selfish freaks who need a bit of adjustment, life sooner or later sorts things out.
13. In the last month Dungeons has moved onto centre stage of the world big wave surfing scene. There have also been some incredible individual performances. How has the way guys approach the wave evolved over the last decade?
Their are many individuals who have over years of unerring commitment, developed the skills with which to PUUUSH the limits. We all know who they are, they command my deepest respect and I feel very priveledged to have witnessed their progression and to have become the best in the world. With safety proficiency increasing constantly, and each session under the belt bringing further understanding of the break, and also their personal limits with the hideous beatings and holdowns the guys are regularly putting themselves deeper, later and generally closer to the other side of human limitations, may those who have pushed 'too far' rest in oceanic peace.! In a nutshell with all the rewards out there for achieving 'biggest', 'deepest', 'best', there is every reason for individuals to go very very hard. Let’s not ignore the fact that along with the evolution of big wave surfing these guys are evolving into human beings who live to ride the ocean in her most furious and agitated moods, we have all become addicted to the abundance of raw energy out there, and have to go regularly for a fix. Never before has the local or international stage been better set to encourage the extreme pushing of limits and progression of big & huge wave surfing.
14. Do you think the average person appreciates what the guys out there are doing?
I would think NOT the average person in the street, no definitely not! To fully appreciate what’s happening out there one needs some or other point of reference in the form of an experience in the ocean. It seems however, that through the media exposure of big wave surfing that the general public is starting to realise that their is an elite group of humans 'playing' and interacting with some of natures most powerfull and deadly forces, and flourishing and progressing and achieving special things.
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| Even the wicked need to rest. |
| 27 August 2009, 22:56 |
Last night I sms'd Iain and said "bring your board, we'll surf before I drop you at the airport, its always better to have surfed before a long flight.." its a travelling theory I've had for years and it works! Nothing better than getting on a long haul flight with a bit of saltwater behind your ears and sand between your toes.
This morning that's exactly what we did. A couple of hours of online banking and admin from theBOMBshelter, then we hit The New Pier, which was pretty fun 3-4ft and peeling. Just Tom from Umthombo and the new New Pier locals stressing out the fishermen. Then a mad dash for the airport and then cheers bru see you in 2-3 weeks. Iain is off to France for a few days, then Prague for some decadent partying, then a bit of time in Italy chilling with his wife. Its his first holiday in a year and believe me he's earned it.
Driving back from the airport I thought to myself, holy shit we've been going for nearly a year. This time last year theBOMBsurf was just a whole lot of talk, some sketches on a napkin and some rum cocktails with the bar tender at Cool Runnings.
We've just put our 4th mag into print and we're pretty stoked with it. Our 3rd version is now online with really cool interactive digital features. We're on the verge of launching some new initiatives. A LOT has happened in the last year!
I just want to say to all the amazing peeps who have helped make it a reality thank you. And to my long suffering partner in crime, Iain, who has been subjected to crazy hours, extreme surfs and some wild times have a good rest my bru, cause when you get back we are gonna rock and roll!
John
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| How long can you hold your breath? |
| 26 August 2009, 22:04 |
How long can you hold your breath?
I paddled out at 2, ok maybe 3' Dairy again this morning knowing that in CT the guys would be surfing 20-30ft Sunset before the day was out. Was that calm sense of well-being flowing through me relief? Very probably. 'Stuck' in DBN with post deadline trauma and trying to repair my marriage after all the time I spent away from home this winter I pondered the heaviness of what is going down there (in CT) right now. The best way to describe this is to explain a conversation that I had with a professional world record breaking free diver recently, called Hanli. She is hooking up with big wave surfers to teach them how to be able to spend more time underwater without freaking out. She was astounded at how comfortable these guys are. To insert a quick sidebar of who was on the course with her know that James Taylor, Reinhardt Fourie, Simon Lowe and Andy Marr was her introduction to big wave surfers. Shew what a crew! "I couldn't believe how comfortable these guys were in their bodies" she said, "Twiggy and Greg are coming on Friday and Geg Bertish and Dave Smith on Sunday." How did they fare I asked? "Well not too badly" Hanli responded. "Reinhardt could hold his breath for about 4mins, James was around 4:30..."
4:30mins are you kidding me?! I was huffing and puffing after 30 seconds.
So my question to you is how long can YOU hold your breath? If you can prove that you can hold your breath longer than James then we'll organise you a seriously cool prize, like an all expreses paid boat trip to Dungeons or a 10'2" to borrow for the day to try paddle in, plus VIP access to the inagrual BOMBshell party happening in December in CT.
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| Cindarellas Slipper |
| 25 August 2009, 10:21 |
Cindarellas Slipper
This morning I surfed in the Bowl at Dairy. Inspired by Dave Jennings and his keen surf pupil Janine who were leaving the North Beach Car park as I arrived. I forced myself to paddle out in the howling onshore. The glare and howling onshore made it look seriously kak but by the time I jumped off the pier I was pleasantly surprised by the fun little rights running through the bowl. There were 4 of us trading waves in the bowl. One of the guys was a really big guy. I'd guess around 100-110kgs. He was surfing a a big thick flat Fish shaped by Baron and my word it was going for him. It was amazing to watch and the lesson I learned (again) is that despite the sleekness of your standard issue pro thruster in reality if we are more realistic about our ability and physiques and get our boards made accordingly we'll end up having more fun.
John
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| Really hot bunny! |
| 24 August 2009, 23:28 |
Really Hot Bunny Chows!
So Iain and I hit our local today and got smashed around in some washy 4-5ft SCoast leftovers. The surf was decidedly hung-over but we surfed none the less and felt quite chuffed with our selves afterwards, as you do when you've made the mission and despite the conditions you actually ended up getting waves. Anyway on the way home we stopped off in the sleepy town of Umkomaas on a tip from my friend Julian Taylor. Jules reckoned: "best bunnies on the SCoast under the shell garage, by the post office near the only mechanic in town, you can't miss it!"
We found it and walked in to find the place packed, standing room only with Indians intently focussed on their chow, almost dead silence. It's basically a hole in the wall. CT's Currie House. This is always a sign of good food to me. A blue collar joint where the guys go to eat means two things good food, real cheap.
We were not disappointed. Iain had a chicken bunny and I had the beef (mutton was sold out) best damn bunny I've had in 2 years! Hotter than the fires of hell but soooo tasty.
If you are in Umkomaas and that way inclined I suggest you go look near the Shell garage guaranteed you'll have an exciting time both when you're eating the currie and the next day when you are dealing with the after effects. Ha ha. Enjoy
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| Finally some waves! |
| 21 August 2009, 15:50 |
Anyone who's had the poor fortune of being in KZN over the last week and a half will tell you that we've had the craziest winds here. While Cape Town has been enjoying some balmy, perfect surf days and the boys and girls down the EC way have also had their fair share of good ones, the East Coast crews have been windswept and surf starved...until this morning that is. John and I hit our local S Coast spot and timed it for the pushing tide. What greeted us at the beach was the Mother of all paddle outs, as a fresh pulsing south swell and the remains of a left over easterly swell combined to form some spitting overhead barrels over a shallow bank with some real grunt in them. The sun was out, the water was clean-as and there wasn't a breath of wind. We couldn't believe it. Frankie and the usual crew were on it for a while and there were some ridiculous barrels ridden - but the consequences were heavy - if you didn't make the tube or you got caught inside, you got pulverised and had to endure sand sodomy. All in all though a good session after a really dodgy week of crazy weather. The other good news is that the new issue of theBOMBsurf mag is in print and will be mailed out to you folks in the second week of September.
Remember, if you need to update your details, especially if you've changes postal addresses, cell number or email addresses - click here and you can update your profile yourself. We'd hate for you not to get your issue.
Have a good weekend
Iain
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| Cheron thwarts armed robbers. |
| 19 August 2009, 14:27 |
Cheron Thwarts armed robbers.
In a series of phone calls that unravelled just now a picture was painted for me not of the quiet little seaside town of J-Bay but more like something straight out of a Hollywood movie.
Check this out. Cheron's private security company received a tip off that she was about to be robbed by some very heavily armed men. Acting quickly and with initiative the security company managed to set up a sting operation and with the aid of the local Jeffreys Bay police cornered and apprehended the gang as they were enroute to her house.
The gang were armed with automatic weapons, hand guns and other bits and bobs, but despite that fortunately no one one was seriously injured in the operation.
The suspects are in custody.
Unbelievable!
For the full story as it appeared in the EP Herald, click here.
John
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| Derailed by Bink |
| 18 August 2009, 17:47 |
Picture this Iain and I are head down in the mag, grafting our arses off. It's coming together nicely despite the last minute flurry courtesy of some amazing shots from Dungeons. No stress, the August Easterly is blowing so hard in Durban no one would venture within 500m of the beachfront, let alone think of surfing. We're enjoying the work, captioning images, tweaking layouts, chasing some last minute ad material. Print outs of the magazine spreads are strewn across Iain's house. Then we get a call from Bink. "Got something to show you, I'm outside your gate, let me in!"
We let him in and he's carrying a DVD home movie of him his boet and Craig Els getting absolutely shacked out of their minds. "When was this shot?" we ask. "Last week, just got back, the banks are as good as they get." No shit! Iain and I look at each other both thinking the same thing. It's nearly time for a trip. Our concentration is shot to pieces for the rest of the day. Thanks Bink.
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| Best Ever Dungeons? |
| 16 August 2009, 22:33 |
What does 'Best ever' really mean. In the heat of the moment its easy to say, but seriously best ever is a big claim. This evening I spoke to Grant Spooner, Jason Hearn, Neil Webster, James Taylor and Twiggy to try and get an idea of what actually went down at Dungeons today.
Grant was missioning, every time I phoned him he was manouvering the boat for a set. All I got from him was single word answers like "amazing" "incredible", "perfect", then a text "I'm done I'll I'll call you in the morning".
Jason was more forthcoming with his words, but literally frothing. That's it, nailed the Big Wave segment in my next film in one day, unbelievavble...Greg Long was saying that James Taylor caught the biggest wave ever paddled into anywhere ever."
James was humble. "Sheesh Andy, Greg and Twiggy got some insane waves!"
How big was it? I asked.
"(Very long pause)... I reckon it was easily as big as the Red Bull Last year, but maybe one or two bigger sets, just more perfect."
Twiggy. Note Twiggy was in the water at 7am this morning and only got back to the harbour at 6pm this evening. This means 11 hrs out at Dungeons in one day! In itself that is unbelievable. I think he was out there with Greg the whole time. What does that single action tell us. Well when arguably the two best big wave surfers in the world spend literally the whole day surfing huge perfect waves it has to be special. It could be another 10 years before we see a day like this at Dungeons, then again it could happen next weekend, thats the thing about big waves. Either way Twig and Greg were taking no chances and literally surfed from sun-up to sun-down in 20-30ft surf.
How good was it Twig?
"Aaagh man, as good as it gets, this is what we live for! It was amazing."
How big was it?
"(Very long pause) 20-25ft with a couple of bigger sets, but just perfect. We were taking off out the back, coming through onto the inside, setting it up and just going for it. There were a couple of barrels."
Who were the standouts?
"(Another long pause) Greg and James Taylor got some good ones, but there were a lot of great rides through the day."
So there you have it, a great day of surfing. No doubt the images will surface in the next day or so but here's the thing CT has more swell coming this week so fasten your seatbelts this ride may not be over just yet.
John
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| The Cape is CRANKING! |
| 16 August 2009, 09:27 |
I wake up in Durban its a balmy day, the leftover effects of yesterdays easterly and the looming print in date conspire to get me to do some work instead of go for a quick paddle. Then I get an sms from Gigs "Dungeons is 30ft and perfect..." Five minutes later I'm on the phone to Grant Spooner (Marine Scene). Yes it's perfect, yes its 20-30 ft, yes the boys are paddling and James Taylor has just paddled into what the guys are saying is the biggest wave ever paddled into at Dungeons..."
I sip on my ritual cup of coffee from Vida and ponder what is actually going on down there. In the last 10 days the Cape has just turned on with 3 significant swells making landfall. We were there last week and never before in my life have I seen guys charge so hard.
The local mainstream media has picked up on the antics and big wave shots have been splashed accross the front pages of our local papers (even up in Durban). Then at theBOMBsurf we've had requests from around the world to contact various local photographers who have been shooting the action. It's like the whole big wave surfing world is watching Dungeons right now.
Last weeks scare with Reinhardt made everyone aware that there could be serious consequences to riding that place. In fact what a lot of people don't know about Reinhardt is that he is a bionic machine who trains 2 hrs a day and could swim before he could walk. If that had happened to anyone else the results may well have been different.
That said the performance levels out there are incredible. These are seminal sessions that are going down, not just in the context of SA big wave surfing but in the context of global big wave surfing. Twiggy, Greg and Carlos are on their day the best in the world. These guys are being pushed and challenged by a hard core crew of locals all determined to take off deeper and on bigger waves.
Stay tuned and we'll try and keep you updated to what goes down.
John
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| Dungeons bites back, part 2 |
| 12 August 2009, 22:26 |
Note to anyone who has never been to Dungeons: It is frikken heavy! The volume of water and the scale of the lineup is intense. What follows is Reinhardt Fourie's personal account of what happened to him yesterday. From the time he let go the tow rope to the time he was found 45 mins later he took 6-7 20-30ft waves on the head and drifted about 2km from the impact zone to where he was eventually recovered.
So yesterday i hit Dungeons in the afternoon with no partner, got out there an hooked up with Gigs.Gigs is problaby the most experienced pwc driver in SA and there's few guys that read waves and conditions like him, so needless to say i was stoked that he was able to jump on the ski with me and pull me into a couple of waves.
Now, the conditions was shit to say the least, huge 17s period, 6meter swell running, onshore wind and that all equates to severe beatings at Dungeons when you get it wrong. Dungeons is unpredictable when it's good, when its bad it's like a rogue pet turning on it's owner.
So i missed the first wave, let go too early and it backed off and unfolded on the inside, second one was a good one, i was way behind the peak and it just doubled up and i made it thru the section and had a pretty good ride, happy not to have it on my head, 3rd wave; really nice looking wave that turned out to be a peak only. I dont like those peaky waves so on the next one i decided to go as deep as i could and come from behind the peak, well as i bottom turned the wall stacked up (surpise surprise) and i had to straighten out. When you do that you gotta try and get in as far as possible coz there's another one behind it. Thats what I did, got sucked in and blown out and then grabbed again and manhandled by the whitewater. It was a nice beating. Why do i like these so much? (i think it makes me feel alive somehow-complete with nature) anyway i got another 4-5 waves on the head after the initial beating. By now the pwc guys had lost sight of me because they run the risk of getting mowed down too and then we have a real show on our hands. I traveled pretty far underwater and came up way on the inside at Dungeons.
At Dungeons there's several rips, off the bowl to the left going towards seal island a few hundred meters away where the seal frolic, then on the inside further in towards the cliffs the "Chapmans Peak express" that takes you across the bay away from the Seal Island to Chapmans Peak in no time.
I was getting washed towards the boulders where huge amounts of water was exploding on the boulders. That was not part of my game plan so my other option was to hop aboard the "express" and go for the "safer" ride. All this time i could see the pwc's looking around the island where they thought i was.
The rip took me away pretty quickly and before long i realized that i needed to get out of the rip because the pwc's have no idea where i am and the chances of them fining me is getting very small so i started swimming diagonally with and across the rip to my left towards land. I managed to get of of the rip and into the offspring rip going along the land. In the meantime, the tourist boat passed me, as well as Grant on Whalesong and Carlos and Maya on the Redbull ski. The pwc's had phoned the harbour in the meantime reporting me as missing and all hell broke loose, rescue boats being launched, NSRI, helicopters etc. I have been "missing" now for around 40min so they started thinking the worst. After about 4-5 min, there's no hope if you swallowed water from blacking out, so they were basically trying to find the body they say. I lost my buddy dave smith 2 years ago for 10 min and was traumatized as anything so i could only imagine what my friends were feeling.
Ok back to the story, so i am hugging the shore looking for an exit point amongst the rocks where the surf would be smaller and allow me a gap to safely get to shore when James Taylor comes racing out of the harbour and basically runs directly into me...saved!. Grant on Whalesong hugged me, jason was as white a a sheet, Gigs cried,Chris and Greg already picked their suits for my funeral etc.... and beers and sighs allround in the bar afterwards.
I have been training super hard the last 2 years. I am training even harder after this,I have paid my dues out there and i study the conditions and the lineup, I eat right and surf within my limits. One important lesson is that you cannot trust the PWC to come and save you. You need to know that you can make it back to land on your own and be confident in your ability to do that. The ocean has no feelings, she does not care about your family, ego, kids, friends, dreams, desires or anything else. This was one of the best experiences I could have had. It also showed me how much my towin buddies care...thanks to you all, I hope we have many more big Dungeons days together!!
mahalo!!
Reinhardt Fourie
DAKINE SA
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| Dungeons bites back |
| 11 August 2009, 19:32 |
The Cape Winter has suddenly hit its strides with 4 epic sessions going down in 10 days. Long suffering BOMBsurf photographer, Craig Kolesky has had his work cut out for him just trying to keep up with the big wave crew as they feast on the annual big wave offering. Today was gnarly though. Easy the biggest day of the year so far and Some epic rides at the Dungeon (check slideshows) but today she bit back and reminded us all that the consequences out there are real. Craig Kolesky takes up his account of what happened.
"Early this morning came a call from Spooner from Marine Scene, He was frothing and barely able to string a full sentence together. Knowing Spooner it had to mean only one thing… dungeons was going off.
Carlos Burle had flown in from Brazil to surf this swell with tow partner Maya Gabeira Who after today is the first girl to tow and surf epic 20-30ft dungeons.
Andy Marr caught some good bombs and was always laughing as he headed past us back to the line up, Simon Lowe was also on the program catching some gnarly sets.
Jay ribbink was back on the program with tow partner Gigs Cilliers, this is Jays first time back in the dungeons line up after his massive wipe in the Red Bull Bigwave comp last year, footage of his wipe can be seen on the Perfect 10 DVD, pretty intense.
All the crew were charging with some big wipes going down in the inside section. Reinhardt Fourie took a massive one on the head after he was towed in by Gigs. He was dragged to the inside and disappeared for about 50 minutes. Panic broke out in the harbour when the news came in that a surfer was missing. Within minutes the skis where back in the water to assist with the search. Reinhardt was eventually rescued when he was spotted by Frank Soloman from Spooners boat. He had landed in a massive rip which pulled him back towards the harbour. Luckily he was wearing a floatation device which kept him afloat and alive!!"
Shew close call.
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| Missing a swell |
| 11 August 2009, 08:38 |
Missing a swell.
These days with cross referencing and internet predictions it's possible to never miss a swell. There is a swell that is going down right now. As I write this it is pouring all over our coastline and I'm stuck in DBN. I know of a spot that will be MENTAL today and I can't go. It bothers me deeply because I know how good its going to be. I got a call from my mate who lives there "what you are not comming, its the best its ever been...?" followed by puzzled silence.
Ja for those of you who think we do nothing but surf find solace in the fact that today we have to work or there will be no Spring issue of theBOMBsurf. We've delayed and delayed thinking up every plausible excuse, we've chased swells all over the country but the buck has finally stopped. It's graft time and unfortunately it's coincided with a cracker.
As they say in the classics, sometimes that's just the way the boerewors bends!
John
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| Dungeons and Dragons |
| 6 August 2009, 19:50 |
Picture the scene: I'm sitting in an open rubber duck in Hout Bay's harbour. It's early in the morning, I have a hangover from the RVCA party last night, it's freezing cold and the rain is pissing down. I'm getting soaking wet, even dressed in my lumo orange jumpsuit (don't ask). There are surfers, photographers, filmmakers, boatdrivers, fisherman, jetski people and supporters all scuttling around getting ready to launch. We're all heading out to Dungeons, some of us, like me, for the first time ever. Captain Grant Spooner is skippering our rubber duck. Now if you've ever had the privilege of meeting cap'n Spooner, you'll appreciate this - the man has been ferrying people in and out of the Hout Bay harbour for 10 years, is a born waterman, oceanic encyclopedia and has a conspiracy theory for every occasion - which he can tell to you in 47 different colourful accents. "So much of fun and games 'eh bru - whatcha skeem?" I was very nervous going out to sea in this rubber duck - especially getting up close and personal with Dungeons, but Spooner had me relaxed and laughing my ass off within minutes and I didn't stop chortling at his banter for the next 5 hours. It was like being at a Michael Naicker, meets barry Hilton meets John Vlismas gig - except we were out at sea watching Dungeons go off.
It was an incredible experience.
There were about 20 guys on it - all the usual suspects from Cape Town like Twiggy, Simon Lowe, Chris B, Micky Duffus and Ross Lindsey, Mike Schlebach, Mad Mike, Frankie knuckles Solomon, Roddy Torr, Jeremy Johnson et al.
Plus the Durban Boys, Jason Ribbink, Ryan Butcher, Jason Wright John Mc, Paul Daniel and even young Josh Redman.
Maya Gabeira from Brazil was the only chick out, and even the well know big wave author Tony Butt from England was out there.
The funny thing was - even though it was a huge crowd - the vibe was amazing - the guys (and girl) were all helping each other, pushing each other into waves, hooting for each other and looking out for each other. Gigs and Ross were doing impromptu water safety on the skis and basically everyone was there to ride the huge waves and have fun. A camaraderie I haven't seen anywhere, ever - especially when the stakes are so high. It was amazing to watch and a great day on the water.
Twiggy snags one and the second one eludes all takes -
check Gigs throwing his arms up in dis-belief!
Standouts for me were Josh Redman - he got more waves than anyone out there.
Twig - he consistently got the BOMBs.
Paul Daniels - for paddling the slab and getting worked HARD. Then going back hunting the barrel there staright afterwards.
Maya - she's a chick, but she's hardcore!
Mad Mike - the guy is a nutter.
Chris B - always taking off the latest and deepest, and even gave Dungeons the flipper when she wouldn't wall up and tube him!
Mike Slebach and Mickey D - for the barrels.
Iain. |
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| The Super Gnarly BOMBsurf Wetsuit Review |
| 6 August 2009, 19:31 |
The Super Gnarly BOMBsurf Wetsuit Revue.
The last couple of days have been an absolute blast. We were in CT for the RVCA launch, which by the way was HUGE! A whole bunch of interesting people from all over SA descended on the Assembly in CT for the mother of all parties, fine if you can sleep in the next day, not so fine if your phone rings 5 seconds after you've gone to sleep and its Craig Kolesky telling us he's just spoken to Grant Spooner, Dungeons is on and we're going. Bring on Day 3 of The Super Gnarly BOMBsurf Wetsuit Revue. Over the last three days I've been surfing in the best suits that money can buy. I've been testing them out so that when you decide to go buy your next suit you will at least have some informed opinion of what the various suits feel like to surf in. So stay tuned for the The Super Gnarly BOMBsurf Wetsuit Revue, it will be available online soon. Right now I have to go surf Dungeons and I'm cursing that pretty Cuervo promo chick who kept feeding me tequila.
John
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| Miserable CT weather! |
| 4 August 2009, 16:50 |
I'm standing knee deep in kelp and foam. The rain is blowing straight into my face, stinging my cheeks and the wind is howling. I try to look back out to sea again, from where I've just come. I'm standing in the Long Beach shorebreak - but all I can see through the rain is a giant washing machine of a sea. Then out the corner of my eye I see John appear between swells, he's flying down the face of a crumbling wall of foam. Whack, whack, whack! It tumbles on, then re-forms - he pumps, the wall sits up and whack, whack! He's in the shorebreak and walks out the sea up to me. "Did you see my last wave" he beams. I'm so over it. But, as usual, he convinces me to paddle out again with him. We must be the only 2 fools out in the entire Atlantic Ocean today. It's so miserable. Out we go again. "What the hell are we doing out here," I ask myself after another 20 mins of paddling, getting flushed and swept around in the storm surf. I paddle for a swell, I'm up on my feet, and I ride it all the way in, in the foam. I bail in the shorebreak and look back. Whack, Whack whack! He's off again. I don't know what's worse - Cape Town miserable winter weather when it's like this, or seeing your mate having an absolute ball, when you're hating life! I think my good friend is truly surf obsessed - and clearly talented. Damn it makes me mad. But I love him for it.
Iain
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| The future of Pro Surfing take 2 |
| 3 August 2009, 22:48 |
Barry Wolins in the States just forwarded me this article, which appeared in The Australian. It makes for fascinating reading.
Slater leads rebel surf tour
Fred Pawle | July 31, 2009
Article from: The Australian
A REBEL group threatens to hijack international surfing to create a multimillion-dollar sport.
 Kelly Slater performs the type of manoeuvre that would be compulsory on his rebel tour for riders to score a perfect 10. Pic: Getty
NINE-TIME world surfing champion American Kelly Slater is backing a rebel pro-surfing tour that will start as early as next year, with or without the support of the sport's existing sponsors and administrators. The breakaway world surfing competition has the potential to affect broadcast rights, sponsorships, advertising and significantly boost the earnings of the world's best surfers.
MICK FANNING: Rebel organiser 'very confident'
Organisers of the rebel tour - Slater's manager Terry Hardy and former American boxing promoter Matt Tinley - have an in-principle agreement with US pay television sports network ESPN to broadcast it and claim to have enough financial backing to get the tour running without the imprimatur of the surf industry or peak surfing body, the Association of Surfing Professionals.
"In a year there is a possibility that there will be two world champions, but obviously that's not what we want to happen," Quiksilver International event director Rod Brooks says. Quiksilver, a surf clothing company, is Slater's long-time sponsor and has been involved in developing the rebel tour for at least the past month.
Early this month Quiksilver chief executive Bob McKnight summoned leaders of other surf labels to meet Hardy in California, to inform them of the rebel tour and invite them to be involved. According to various reports, Hardy told the meeting the tour would proceed whether they supported him or not.
ASP chief executive Brodie Carr waited three weeks before he could get a meeting with Hardy, which happened this week in Los Angeles. Carr is not saying what was discussed but one rumour in the surfing world suggests Hardy was bullish about his ability to steal the sport away from the ASP. Other sources say the rebels have employed a team of lawyers to head off any legal challenge from the ASP.
Neither Hardy nor Quiksilver International in the US are prepared to comment on the new tour or on rumours that McKnight and Slater have invested heavily in the breakaway group, saying a press release will be issued soon.
This much is for sure: the rebel tour will consist of 16 surfers (eight permanent, eight wildcards) in eight events run during five months in the latter half of next year.
Each event will have a prize pool of $US1.5million ($1.8m). This would be a huge payrise for those lucky enough to be invited on the new tour - the biggest existing events on the ASP tour have only $US340,000 in prizemoney, which is shared between 45 competitors.
Representatives from the pro-surfers union, World Professional Surfers, also met Hardy in Los Angeles this week. The WPS is partly financed by British businessman Greville Mitchell, who didn't return emails or calls from The Australian regarding the apparent agreement between surfers and Hardy.
Brooks says Quiksilver's role has been greatly misunderstood. "The perception is that we want to control things," he says. "I just want to make it clear that we really support the ASP and that we're continuing business with them as usual. We've got a big event on the Gold Coast as usual in February and our big event in France next month. Those events cost us over $2m to run. We don't see anything wrong with the ASP, this is just a media opportunity to take surfing to another level, particularly to the US mainstream."
However, Slater's disillusionment with the existing tour was apparent in an email he sent to fellow competitors this month.
| IN A NUTSHELL |
ASP v ESPN
- ASP World Tour
Events: 10, from February to December
Entrants: 45
Prize pool per event: $US340,000
Minimum prize money: $US4700
Winner’s prize: $US40,000
TV exposure: daily highlights on news and sports bulletins
Internet: webcasts from various event sponsors’ sites
- Proposed ESPN tour
Events: eight, from May to September
Entrants: 16
Prize pool per event: $US1.5 million
Minimum prize: $US40,000
Winner’s prize: Not known
TV exposure: scheduled prime-time shows on US pay-TV network ESPN 2
Internet: webcasts from a single site
|
"ESPN has signed on to support and fully back a tour to potentially start next year," Slater wrote. "This is huge news and opportunity. This would include a 'new' tour based on what the surfers want to have in terms of judging, locations, formats, etc ... It would also include a dedicated, full-time web team and signature look to all events.
"Basically they are looking to present a fully professional sports package of surfing to the world with dedicated prime-time TV and the best live webcasting available."
On the Australia’s Surfing Life website this month, surf journalist Tim Baker quoted Slater saying, “Basically, if there's a way to create a much better situation for surfers and a tour and this is it, I'm in. Does the ASP cease to exist if this goes forward? No. Not necessarily ... Has ASP failed pro surfing? I don't think so but I also don't truly feel it's done the best job that can be done.”
In a reflection of how much influence Slater has over some surf journalists, and how sensitive this issue has become, the quote was pulled from the site within 24 hours.
One of the anomalies of top-level surfing is the existence of professional "free surfers", who are paid not to compete in events but instead travel the world surfing the best waves and recording the action on video.
These include former world champ Andy Irons, his brother Bruce, fellow Hawaiian Jamie O'Brien and Californian Clay Marzo. These videos often reveal a gap between the best free and contest surfing. In an attempt to close that gap Slater has, according to surf insiders, proposed that no ride on the rebel tour could score a perfect 10 out of 10 unless it includes an aerial manoeuvre.
"That would be more exciting to watch," says 2009 world title runner-up, Queenslander Bede Durbidge.
Durbidge is a good example of the existing tour's problems. Last year he earned less than $200,000 in sponsorship. This year it will be much less. His main sponsor, Californian surf label Mada, dropped him a couple of months ago, despite him still being rated 11th in the world. Durbidge says he will consider the rebel tour, but only if the rest of the title contenders also defect.
So have any been personally approached? Australian Joel Parkinson, who is leading this year's title race, says he is unable to comment on the rebel tour. "I don't know enough about it, and I'm just focusing ont he next event," he says.
Calls to another high-profile Australian, Taj Burrow, were not returned. Former world champion Mick Fanning, of Queensland, who is also the new surfers' representative on the ASP board, was on a flight home from California when The Australian tried to call. While in California he met Hardy to discuss the rebel tour.
O'Brien, an obvious contender for the rebel tour, says he hasn't been contacted by Hardy.
Such a challenge to the status quo has been increasingly inevitable during the past two years. For the past two seasons, the rights to the footage of each pro-tour event has been bundled up with the licence agreement with the sponsor.
Instead of the action being produced by one dedicated TV production company, the event sponsors have had to do it themselves. This has been largely successful - surfing has raised the bar in the broadcasting of sport over the internet - with good-quality events attracting a million unique browsers on the internet during the course of each event.
However, the presentation of the overall tour is disjointed, going through various sponsors' websites, and the commentators change from one event to the next. It is this inconsistency that Slater was referring to when he told his peers the rebel tour would have the "best live webcasting available".
That, and the rebel tour's promise of prime-time broadcasts in the US, is what the sport needs to attract a mainstream audience.
John Mossop, spokesman for leading Australian surf label Billabong, says his company has met Hardy but is still waiting for more details before committing to anything. Billabong remains allied with the ASP.
"The surf industry has always been very competitive, so we don't fear competition. Indeed, it is healthy," Mossop says. "We have been competing with the newer players in the industry such as Nike and Red Bull for some time, but they haven't changed the landscape too much. But, ultimately, surf is our heritage and we will continue to be involved regardless of the direction any new competitors may want to take it."
That new direction is into the mainstream. For four decades, surfing has remained an essentially fringe sport, appealing only to those who are surfers themselves.
Brooks says the rebel tour is all about making the sport more profitable. "There are some compelling reasons this has come about," he says. "There is an opportunity to make some money."
A more mainstream audience would also attract bigger companies from outside the surf industry, potentially pricing the surf labels out of the market for event and athlete sponsorship deals.
"Quiksilver has no problem with that," Brooks says. "It's market forces taking place. We don't mind others stepping in and taking the load. We've carried the load to get the tour where it is today.
"We'd be happy if other people benefited from it. The sport would be pushed to a higher level and the image of the sport and the athletes would be enhanced. Quiksilver is a major player and we think we'd benefit by growing the pie."
Slater's reputation has taken a hit over all this. He is out of the running for this year's world title and the perception among some fans is that he's taking his bat and ball and going elsewhere. Not so, says Brooks.
"A cynical person would come to that conclusion, but if you knew him as well as I do, you'd know that he has had these ideas ever since he started on the tour. He just feels he's arrived at a point where he can make a difference and, unless he makes a difference, it won't happen."
The rebel proposal will be considered by the ASP board at the sport's head office on the Gold Coast on Monday or Tuesday.
There is no set proposal on the table yet, although what the rebels offer is open to speculation. It will be somewhere between a conciliatory offer to amalgamate the rebel tour with the existing one, making them complementary, and a demand to endorse the rebel tour willingly or otherwise.
Would the rebels offer to buy out the ASP? "I don't think buy out would be the correct term," Brooks says. "It would be to bring them together so they complement each other."
Hardy's partner in the rebel tour is Tinley, whose departure from boxing in 2002 involved lawsuits from boxers and claims of unpaid debts. Brooks says Tinley's past had been brought to Quiksilver's attention only in the past 24 hours, but it doesn't affect the rebel group's reputation. "I think he's done a lot of successful projects since then," he says.
Durbidge says the potential for a better tour is considerable.
"The ASP needs to change its ways and go outside the industry to get sponsors," he says. "Maybe look at Target in the US; they just signed a big sponsorship with (top female surfer) Carissa Moore and are getting into action sports. Once they get on board, others will follow. I know LG is interested in action sports, and Mountain Dew.
"Everyone is really curious about what will happen and excited about taking the sport to the next level. Even if it went sour for a year, it would eventually work out in a year or two and it would be better for everyone."
Veteran Hawaiian contest director Randy Rarick says the surf companies will use their control over the sport’s best athletes to stymie Hardy.
“I don’t think the companies are going to let their riders go to a tour that is detrimental to the tour they have always supported,” he says.
“You could wind up with a bunch of guys saying, ‘we’re going to take our ball and play over there (with ESPN)’, but none of them is going to be a world champion.
“It would not have any meaning. It would be a great promotional tool, but does ESPN care about developing the sport? Heck, no. They only care about making advertising revenue.
“In three years it will be a flash in the pan. Some guys will make some money but its legitimacy will be questionable, and it will fall by the wayside. I’ve been doing this for 35 years, I’ve seen these guys come and go.”
Fred Pawle is The Australian's surfing writer.
pawlef@theaustralian.com.au
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