|
| Tears of frustration! |
| 30 June 2009, 20:39 |
I got to my local on the SCoast today after much deliberation and planning. It's gonna be too big here, too south there, too small there, but my old faithful would be holding it, I just knew it. Ace out I headed for a solo mission. Got there to find it perfect. Perfect but relentless. 10 ft plus grinding perfect walls with no gaps to get out. I always get out at this spot. In 10 years of surfing there I've never not managed to get out. Its actually a source of pride that I can get out. Today I couldn't and the surf was perfect. It's difficult to explain the frustration mixed with admiration and stoke when you just witness waves this good and big, but can't ride them. The ocean was in a league of its own today and it was a humiliating experience. After an hour on the rocks (I kid you not) I turned for the final time and gave up. It was a relief in some respects but I also sensesed I was surrendering something. I nearly turned back twice on the drive out but the impending onshore kept me focussed on trying to at least get a consiliation surf under the belt in town. Then I got a call from my mate on the N Coast. He was jabbering and going on like he was on speed only he wasn't, he was just stoked because he'd just had the barrel of his life! That's not a small statement from someone who came within a ball hair of getting onto the WCT. I was envious and stoked for him at the same time. That sometimes is surfing!
John
|
| |
| share this blog |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Balls to the wall at Surfers |
| 29 June 2009, 21:09 |
It's got to be weird as a WQS campaigner used to spending your year rocking up and grovelling at small beachbreaks when you are suddenly confronted with surfing 8' grinding Surfers in Ballito. I got there around midday just in time for low tide and the swell to peak. Guys were getting through their heats with 2's and 3's. Some guys barely made it out. It was very physical make no doubt about it. My eyes kept straying to the two waverunners parked lazily on the beach while the guys got smashed paddling out with no assistance... Here is a thought that the organisers may or may not want to hear but watching guys paddling for 10mins a time just to get out is only entertaining the first time. After a while it just not fun any more. I say use the skis the way they do in the Goodwave and everyone is stoked. Anyway I digress. the Mr P 6 star is on and this is an important opportunity for our boys to make up some valuable ground on the WQS. Who better to talk to about who needs to do what on the WQS than Al Hunt from the ASP (Al is the QS guru). This is what Al had to say about our boys in the next few days.
John,
Just looking over the ratings after Cape Town and it seems there are eight guys doing the WQS tour that have any sort of chance in the ratings.
Logie, Jackson, Wright, Bryson, Fahrenfort, Palmboom, Redman and Basnett.
Of these Travis Logie is doing very well coming 6th and carrying three low scores he can easily replace.
A bit of a jump to Brandon Jackson in 22nd who has even lower throw away scores so should be a big mover upwards with one or two good placings in the next 6 Star WQS events.
The remaining guys all need at least three equal 5th or better results to make any movement up the ratings.
With the Mr Price Pro on this week anything less than equal 5th for all of them will probably not be worth keeping.
Al
OK boys you heard it from the man now go out there and do the business!
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| 'For The Love' by Kelly Slater |
| 28 June 2009, 19:28 |
Available now at most Quiksilver Boardriders stores and other core surf stores Kelly Slater’s new book ‘For the Love’ by Kelly Slater with Phil Jarratt is now available in SA. The suggested retail price is R400. There are only a limited no of these books available in SA, so you are going to need to move fast if you want one. This is a seriously inspiring book with incredible visual appeal. If you are interested in surfing you can’t not read this book. If you don’t manage to get your hands on your own copy steal your mates.
This is more refined than 'Pipe Dreams' which was Slater's first book. KS is not afraid to let it all hang out here but somehow you sense a maturity and self knowledge in Slater that was missing in Pipe Dreams. His honesty looking back is as intriguing as his thoughts on the future. Politics, music, the environment, surfboard design. Slater has opinions and he shares them. Kelly's secret seems to be that he somehow manages to tap into positive energy wherever he can find it - something we should all do more of. Also he works bloody hard. He has a sense of responsibility, he wants to give something back, to surfing, to his friends and to the planet.
This is a fascinating book. I highly recommend it.
John
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| A Fly in The Champagne |
| 28 June 2009, 19:13 |
This is one of those dvds that you more or less have to watch. Andy and Kelly bury the hatchet and go on a surf trip together so you get...Andy and Kelly on a surf trip and that’s pretty wild on its own. For me though the best part about this whole story is when the two surfers talk about their rivalry and what propelled them to rise to the heights that they did. The competitiive rivalry is as intense as we all know but its great to see the people behind the public characters. I’ve always been a Kelly fan and somehow I came away from this movie more of an Andy fan than I’d been in the past. That said one can’t help but still suspect that Slater is pulling the strings in the background there somewhere... Even if this is an Irons Brothers production.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| From Thermos to the dairy Bowl |
| 26 June 2009, 21:45 |
The last month has been crazieness for iain and myself. We've spent more of it away from home than at our locals. Cape Town was cool but man it's gnarly down there. The waves get big and the weather is unbelievable. Thank goodness for The Fisherman's pub in Kommetjie, the Oylmpia Cafe in Kalk Bay, Vida e and Bobby Skinstad and Dougie Boyes new pub The Toad in the villiage in Noordhoek. Without these places our sense of humour would have failed for sure. Somehow log fires good coffee, draught beer and a decent dose of fellowship will always see you through. Roxy from Roxy learn to surf and and Roddy from the Kommetjie Surf shop kept us in wax and smiles thanks guys! Our last surf in Ct was at Thermos and it was pretty sketch. Took me a while to talk Iain into paddling out. Glad we did but we got donnered. Back to Durbs trying to shake the lurgie, its like another planet even though the same cold front that has just klapped us stukkend for a week in CT has just reached here to klap us again. People are wearing shoes and that's a bad sign in Durban. Hit north beach. jean the car guard asks me if I've emmegrated (to CT are you kidding?). Paddle out for a late one at Dairy. The waves are pretty average but man its good to be home.
John
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| Last day's surf in CT. |
| 25 June 2009, 15:17 |
Last night was our last night in CT for a while. After wrapping up the CWC we enjoyed the customary post-event celebrations at the Brass Bell with a clearly stoked O'Neill team - Well done, PC, Dale, Chris and all the team! I think my highlight of the event was watching the people of Cape Town turn out to Kalk Bay, which actually forms a kind of amphitheater, with droves of fans watching from Brass Bell, the railway wall, the parking lot and as far down the bricks as one can get. When Royden needed that last wave and a bump appeared far out to sea - the crowd just started screaming, whistling and going nuts! By the time he actually paddled for it - the roar around the arena was intense - a clear sign that the Cape surfing community have really missed professional surfing since the Spur Surfabout days almost 20 years ago.
This morning we surfed Thermos - it looked lank sketch and I wasn't keen at all, especially on the Spring low! There wasn't a soul out there, the sea looked pretty wild and I after seeing the images of the GTO XVII Tug boat that ran aground in the Cape Times this morning- I wasn't exactly frothing! But John (as he does) convinced me to trust him and we paddled out. We surfed for about 20 minutes before the town crew trickled into the lineup! We actually got some really good rides, took a few on the head and had a pretty fun surf.
Now it's back to Durbs tonight and then off to The MPP in Ballito next week.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Blake Thornton wins CWC |
| 24 June 2009, 17:12 |
Ok folks, it's all over - Royden Bryson was beaten by Blake Thornton from Australia in the final of the 2009 O'Neill Cold Water Classic. It was an epic final with some great tube riding and some snappy turns out on the Reef. Royden needed a six-something with 5 minutes to go. 2 sets came through in that time and our boy, Roy took off deep and late on 2 waves and couldn't come out the tube.
See all the waves from the semi finals and finals, watch interviews with the winners and see highlights from the day's action at http://www.thebombsurf.com/pages/327/oneill-coldwater-classic
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| Kalk Bay - heats underway! |
| 24 June 2009, 13:23 |
Check this video out, it's not quite the channel at teahupoo but how cool is this set up for the final day of the O'Neill Cold Water Classic. Craig Kolesky is busy shooting stills and video. Iain is uploading the highlights and Jordy is watching the footage of his heat. In the background Rob Bain and Dale Bamford enjoy the view while having lunch.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| We're not in Kansas Dorothy... |
| 24 June 2009, 08:34 |
For a Durban Boy used to the almost sublime warm weather we have in winter its a real eye opener to be exposed to The Cape Winter in full force. I woke up this morning to see Sunset stormy and windswept crashing on the reef at around 30ft. Overnight as the swell rose it washed kelp up off the beach into our front garden! Yikes. Last night as I went to sleep I wondered if the roof was going to be blown off, perhaps I should have been more worried about the size of the swell with kelp now sitting 15 ft from our front door. Neil Webster has just popped in to deliver next weeks installment of the VST. Twiggy and Greg Long go head to head at a mysto slab it's MENTAL, these boys are not well. Now its a scramble into the car, a quick brekkie at the Olympia caffe and then game on for the final day of the O'Neill Cold Water Classic which looks set to wrap at Kalk Bay, shew that could be epic! We'll try and keep you updated on the event page, so start looking for updates from around 11am.
John
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Stormy Cape Town and SAU news |
| 23 June 2009, 18:56 |
The Cold Water Classic had a lay day today as the inclement weather put a halt to proceedings. Probably a good call with only the round of 16, quarters, semis and the final to run - the organisers are waiting for tomorrow and they're eyeing out Kalk Bay. The rumours abound that there is a 30ft plus swell pushing through tonight which could see Dungeons, Sunset and the Crayfish Factory light up - but people are skeptical about if anyone will attempt to surf it because the weather is sooooo gnarly.
News from other parts of the country is that the SA Universities champs kicked off yesterday: This report from Liam Wood:
Hey guys, conditions at SA Universities: 1-2ft in the morning building to 3-4ft by the evening. Standard of surfers this year is one of the highest ever seen. 4-5ft conditions predicted for Tuesday – 8ft storm swell 20ft @14sec on Wednesday for the FINAL. There are 6 Universities taking part this year and UCT are the defending Champions. More news to follow. Click here for the slideshow:
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| The storm is coming in and saffas are ripping! |
| 22 June 2009, 14:17 |
Geeze but it's FREEZING down at Misty Cliffs. It's a testement to the skill of the surfers competeing in the O'Neill Cold Water Classic that they are able surf in borderline galeforce sideshore winds and still get the scores they are. Jordy Scored an 8.5 for goodness sake in his last heat. Amazing stuff. The organisers are literally huddled in a tent clinging to the mountainside trying to survive the day as the surfers duke it out. There has been some amazing surfing but standouts today would have to be Ant Bortelleto, Dooma and Jordy. For heat highlights go to http://www.thebombsurf.com/pages/327/oneill-coldwater-classic
John
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Sorry Oom Paul! |
| 22 June 2009, 09:58 |
I recieved an email this morning from Paul Botha. Paul politely pointed out that something I'd written on the BMT rankings this week was in bad taste and diplomatically suggested I re-look at what we'd published. I've known Paul for a very long time and have the utmost respect for his opinion. He's been around the Cape Surfing scene since way before even I was a scrawny grom rocking up at Long Beach to collect my singlet. Basically in the BMT rankings I dissed Long Beach (heavily) it was meant in jest but in retrospect it was as Paul pointed out 'in bad taste'. I've re-edited the piece and removed the offensive references. My apologies to Oom Paul and any of the Long Beach fraternity who read it and were in any way offended. That was not my intention at all.
John
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Calm before the Storm |
| 22 June 2009, 09:18 |
It's a cold and windy day here at Misty Cliffs on the side of the mountain. As I write this, Jordy just got a 9 in his heat with Dave Richards, Beyrick and mister Tanaki from Japan. It looks like some testing conditions out there, but there are a few nuggets to be had as we move into the business end of the contest. There have been some insane predictions for later this week and at these early stages, the rumours on the beach are that the contest organizers are looking at holding the finals in Kalk Bay on Wednesday - with the Atlantic side predicted to be out of control, K Bay could yield it's most epic conditions of the year - can you imagine Jordy, John John, Trav and Jarrad Howse going head to head in spitting, left hand barrels in the final rounds? Let's see what happens.
Be sure to follow all the action, live scoring and behind the scenes videos on our dedicated CWC event page here http://www.thebombsurf.com/pages/327/oneill-coldwater-classic
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| The CWC is on! |
| 20 June 2009, 09:27 |
The O'Neill CWC Cape Town opening function went down in Kommetjie at the Fisherman - lots of Corona, lots of pizza, Red Bull and Vodka and friends around the numerous open fires in the courtyard. Cool DVDs on rotation of the Tasmania and Scotland events and a very cool vibe - everyone here is amped!
John and I surfed the Kom alone this morning - a few waves, but nothing too major - Today's action is going to take place at Misty Cliffs - if you're in the area, come down and check it out. If not, keep checking back to the blog and to the official CWC Cape Town webpage on our site here http://www.thebombsurf.com/pages/327/ for daily updates, live scores, results, videos, slideshows and behind the scenes action.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Down in the Cape for the O'Neill CWC |
| 18 June 2009, 18:47 |
I wasn't too stoked to have to get up at 4.30 am to catch the first flight down to Cape Town. But I was very stoked when I pulled into our accommodation right on the beach at Kommetjie - The O'Neill House - which is to be our base for the next week during the O'Neill Cold Water Classic. I travelled down with O'Neill team rider Quinton "Shabs" Shabalala, and we were joined at the house soon after our arrival by O'Neill's other ripper, Casey Grant, from Scottburgh.
We decided to hit the Dunes for an afternoon session. Chris Leppan has been down here for 2 weeks and he pulled in too. We could see the surf was FIRING, even from the 'hoek parking lot. After running the half-marathon to get down the Dunes, we paddled out amid some heaving sets and some gnarly close-outs. I've never seen so many people in the water down there before. There must have been about 30-40 guys out - the funny thing was it actually didn't seem that crowded, because the sets came through thick and fast and they were brutal! There were a lot of familiar faces out there too - among the locals, Roddy Torr from the Kommetjie surf shop, Dougie Bouyes from the Toad in the Village and mate, "the Loub", Chris B back from Reunion, Matt Bromley, even Gigs was "rolling the dice" on a couple of cooking tubes and then there was all the contest guys, O'Neill head honcho Dale Bamford, Gozzie the Aussie, Jarred Howse and quite a few others - like I said there were a LOT of ous out. But everyone got waves, and some serious barrels!
If the surf stays like this for the contest - it's going to be a very, very exciting event.
Stay posted on theBOMbsurf.com for LIVE scoring and results through the event and lots of crazy behind the scenes videos and slideshows. I'm gonna put the dedicated event page up tomorrow, and it's going to be sick - so stay tuned.
Iain
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Jordy sticks a crazy rodeo flip |
| 15 June 2009, 16:58 |
Guys gotta share this with you. Go and watch this clip of Jordy taken recently in the Mentawiis. It will blow your mind. He sticks a perfect Rodeo Flip, its insane. Makes us all feel a bit pedestrian really... http://www.thebombsurf.com/thebombsurfvideos/269/jordy-lands-a-rodeo-flip
Can you imagine what surfers like Jordy will be doing in 5 years time, it almost defies imagination.
John
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| Mad Cows and River Spiders |
| 14 June 2009, 20:28 |
Greeny, I have just finished your new book ‘Mad Cows and River Spiders’, I have to say I laughed until I cried. It’s a quick read and your blend of humour and adventure is hilarious. The fact that a bunch of surfers decided to do the Dusi Canoe Marathon is a good foundation for some funny anecdotes, especially if you look at the characters involved, but to go the whole hog and actually produce a book? Shew, respect. Can you tell us a little about what the Dusi Canoe Marathon entails?
I guess for most people it entails a lot of serious preparation. For me it was seriously the funniest six months of my life. I cannot remember a period of time I laughed more. I guess that had a lot to do with the three guys I had for company as anyone who has read the book will understand. Our preparation was dismal and our race strategy even worse but we had a real laugh getting from Maritzburg to Durban. It is an amazing race in so many respects and I would recommend to anyone of reasonable fitness to have at least one crack at it.
So you survived the Dusi, what prompted you to sit down and write a book about it?
When we started our quest to tackle the mighty Msundusi, there was a bunch of our mates who were convinced we would never finish and were very vocal in this regard. As a result a multitude of bets were laid against us getting to Durban. To silence these doubters I started sending out a weekly email updating them on our progress and preparation. These were always very light hearted and invariably pulled the piss at how completely useless we were as canoeists. I had such a great response to it that one week I forgot to send out the “Captains Log” as we called it, and I received a dozen abusive phone calls demanding to know where it was. This got me thinking that perhaps a readership for our trials and tribulations in tackling the race actually existed.
Greeny: The author
The story follows the escapades of a bunch of surfers who all work in the rag trade. You’ve been around the rag trade since pa fell off the bus mostly working with surf brands and correct me if I’m wrong but that still pays the bills. In fact as I understand it you’ve decided to donate 100% of the proceeds from the sale of this book to an initiative that is being spearheaded by ‘Dusi Duke’, Martin Dreyer. Can you tell us a little bit about that?
When we started paddling I couldn’t help but notice the number of young black valley residents who had taken up the sport but were obviously hampered by a lack of equipment, transport, proper diet and all the other influencing factors that are necessary for success. I would watch these guys running the portages barefoot, with old broken canoes, no hydration and no seconds and I remember saying to my paddling partner Lee Besnard that if someone could harness this energy, that these guys would start dominating the sport. Martin Dreyer is possibly one of the most amazing sportsmen I have met. He has won the Dusi a record seven times and is one of the nicest, most humble people you will have the pleasure of meeting. More importantly he is an incredible humanitarian. In 2008 he partnered Michael Mbanjwa to Dusi victory and in doing so Bunji became the first black paddler to win the race. Subsequently Martin started an initiative called the “Change A Life Academy” in which he tutors young black athletes from the Nagle Dam area to paddle, and he achieved the most incredible results with them in the 2009 Dusi. These guys are all subsistence kids who were herding cattle and farming for their parents. I was so impressed with what Martin was doing and the sacrifices he was making that I decided to donate all the profits from the book to the Academy. It is an excellent cause run by an incredible athlete.
Where is your book available and how much does it cost?
The book is available at a number of book stores and canoe shops for R100. Alternatively any interested parties can email me on gary@volcom.co.za and I will make sure they get a copy.
You surf, you’re involved in MX, horse riding and canoeing how did you find the time to write a book?
Writing the book was surprisingly not that difficult as I already had a total of fourteen “Captains Logs” that constituted the main body of the book. It was then simply a case of tweaking it, adding in an introduction and writing about the race itself. All in all it took me the better part of six months to complete the manuscript.
What was the hardest part in the process for you? Without a doubt the process between completing the manuscript and going to print. The constant editing and proof reading. I think I read the entire book at least twenty times before it went to print. By that stage I was ready to burn the bloody thing!
Your launch was very well supported, you had both the paddling and surf communities there in full force. How did the laid back beach bums get along with the clean cut paddlers?
Getting the surfers there wasn’t hard at all. Tell a guy like Simon Nicholson that there is free food and he will show up early! Surprisingly a lot of paddlers surf, and a lot of surfers are super keen to give the Dusi a crack so there was a great vibe there. Since the book launched there has been a lot of interest amongst the surf fraternity regarding the race. Rumour has it that David van der Walt is planning a comeback in 2010 with Paul Canning and Dale Bamford for company. I have had the pleasure of paddling the Upper Umgeni with PC before and would certainly have some advice for his prospective partner. “It’s going to be a long three days!” Simon Nicholson was also heard mumbling something about a second crack, this time with his brother Peter. I certainly don’t want to be at the Nicholson’s for Christmas lunch that year!!
Word has it you are already working on your second book. Is there any truth in the rumour, can you tell us anything about that?
I am actually quite well down the track with a book entitled “Stand At Ease” which is about my two years National Service. I spent two years in the army trying my best to get out of everything possible and in doing so ended up in the worst possible situations. My time in the army was certainly as farcical as our great Dusi attempt and will definitely amuse anyone who spent time getting crapped on by some Dutchman called Corporal Koekemoer! I am hoping to go to print sometime early in 2010.
Thanks Greeny and best wishes for the book sales.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| KZN S Coast hits a purple patch |
| 12 June 2009, 20:07 |
It was one of those days when you get up late drop the kids at school, get a coffee frm your favourite coffe shop (in my case Vida) and then dawdle doen the coast hoping to get something to ride. Driving past Umgababa coffee in hand and singing along to some cheezy radio friendly track I suddenly revised my expectations. 12 knot off-shore, sun shining and groomed 3-5' groundswell making landfall, just as the tide got low enough for it to barrell. Whoo-hoo after the wetsuits of CT yesterday I relished the thought of a boardies session at a cooking point. Hit my local and it was ON. 4 of us in the water for 3 hrs! It was a barrell-fest orgy. Not heavy, just perfect. There is something about surfing in boardies in winter that just feels decadent. For those of you not used to it, try a little KZN magic sometime, you'll be stoked you did.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| Sweet Perfection and then Gnarlyville |
| 10 June 2009, 18:43 |
Cape Town is a place of violent extremes. For the last 3 days it has been beautiful down here and the surf has been cooking! Gone is that gnarly sideways rain and galeforce winds of last week. Today was almost windless sunny and a clean 6-8 ft west swell filling in at most of the Reefs. The surf was cranking. A beatiful day to be a surfer. We arrived at The Kom to see Pierre de Villiers smiling from ear to ear, a good sign. We surfed there and it was pretty much as good as it gets. I saw Jack Smith, Micky Duffus, Chip Snaddon, Mark Fine, Greg Bertish and Frank Soloman all get some truly amazing rides. A west swell at The Kom is an amazing thing. Thanks guys for sharing it with us. We'd have loved to have stayed and surfed all day but town and meetings beckoned so reluctantly we returned to work.
This evening, tending to emails and catching up on work we should have done while we were surfing we received a slideshow and video from Craig Kolesky. It blew our minds. Sean Holmes, Dave Smith and Conn Bertish charge a slab that is so heavy and so round that writing about it doesn't do it justice. Craig is not saying where it is or what it's called so we just called the place "Gnarlyville". You could probably also call it "Psycho's" or "Loony's". Anyway enough words already go check this place out for yourself. Click here for the video and here for the slideshow.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Down the Dunes |
| 8 June 2009, 21:31 |
We hit the Dunes this morning...I always bitch and moan when John wants to surf down there 'cos it's such a frikken mission to drive all the way there, rubber up to the max, then run for 20 minutes just to get to the break and finally paddle out through crunching beach break.
But today it was so worth it.
There were about 10 guys out and the conditions were perfect. 3-5 foot, offshore and sunny. The barrels were insane. Fast, steep and throwing! We surfed for about 2 hours and clocked up some of the most fun tubes ever. Simon Lowe definetely got tube of the day, taking off late on a bomb, dissapearing behind the curtain of cascading water and getting blown out a full 100m down the beach. I saw the first half of it, and was amazed when he was spat out way behind me. All I could hear was wild hooting from the rest of the guys. Nice work big guy!
John also pulled into some really deep pits, ridiculously long tubes and sitting way back in the tube - it was awesome to watch.
I only made about 4 of the two dozen tubes I pulled into and recieved a serious hiding from the ones I didn't make - but the ones i did come out of were so rad! My battered legs were hating me, but I couldn't resist slotting in under the lip again and again, to try and out run the slamming lip.
After the long walk back, we met up with ex-bok Rugger player Bob Skinstad, a BOMBsurf subscriber and avid surfer, at his new pub, "The Toad in the Village" in Noordehoek and chowed the tastiest Spingbok pie and chips ever. If any of you BOMBfans are in the 'hoek pull in - it's a great place to hit the post surf munchies, check the rugger out on the flat screen TVs and smash cold beer.
Finally, big props to all the folks who have recieved the new mag and mailed us to say how stoked they are with it - like the Whiting Family from Warner Beach...
"the BOMB has arrived, amid great excitement" said the MMS from the Warners.
Nice one guys!
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
| The Factory III and an action packed weekend |
| 7 June 2009, 17:23 |
Believe it or not there is actually a Part III to the Factory story, but I haven't had a chance to blog until today as we've been CHARGING around Cape `Town. Friday morning John and I went to the Factory to check it out. The North Westerly was pumping and it was breaking at about 8-10 ft. The takeoff's were a mission as the wind really got under the board and the drops were steep! We got some great rides though, especially on the inside wall which was big and fast all the way through to the channel.
Saturday we hit Muizenberg to recruit subscribers and we also popped into the WP Open happening at Long Beach.
While smashing a quick Burger at The Green room in Kommetijie (best burger I've EVER had! Shot Ollie!) we hooked up a connection to stay ay the Straw House in Elands Bay - read more about this in the new mag - an insane place! So John and I jumped in the cabbie and drove out at dusk to Elands.
I'd never been up the Weskus, and John was telling me all these old school stories about the area and the days when people just roughed it, feral styles. So we pulled into the local bar to find 2 guys 4 girls and a dog...not exactly party central, just very chilled and rustig.
Check it out...
After a quick milk stout, we went to the beach and because it was a full moon, we considered surfing it right then and there - but it was really low tide and the swell we were waiting for hadn't arrived yet, though there was the odd one that flashed down the point in the moonlight!
We were up at first light, and hit the point. The swell hadn't exactly arrived as anticipated, but there was a little 3 footer peeling down the point. We hit it for an hour then went to surf the beach break in front of the Straw House. We had to hussle back to Cape Town and were bummed to leave because the point was getting better and better...but work beckoned.
Take a quick tour through the Straw house below....
Thanks Mark and Kath for letting us stay- what an amazing set-up!
On our way back to Cape Town we pulled into Blouberg to show people the mag and sign them up - what a stoked community of surfers - most hadn't heard of theBOMBsurf yet, but they were so amped for it when we told them about it and showed them the new mag.
Finally, we dashed out to Kommetjie to catch the end of the WP Open at Long Beach and afterwards had a really good surf at Outer Kom. Stoked to see young Tannika Hoffman and Sarah Baum out there charging the set waves! There were some really nice 6-8ft, glassy bombs coming through and for the first time since we've been here the sun was out and it was a beautiful afternoon.
Another busy day in the Mothercity.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| The Factory II |
| 4 June 2009, 20:53 |
Spike called us early afternoon to say the Factory was going to be 6-8 ft and he'd meet us there. We arrived before him and it looked pretty ordinary, in fact it looked miserable. John and I were waiting for Spike to bring a big board for me - then he called and wasn't sure if he could come anymore. So John and I paddled out alone. I made him give me the 8'0 and tuned him to ride his 6'3 - I figured an inch for every year's surfing experience he had over me, should level the playing fields.
I was super skeptical as we paddled out. But as we arrived at the shelf, a big set came through. Way bigger than yesterday. For some reason I wasn't freaked out and I could actually anticipate pretty accurately where it was gonna stand up and where it was going to pitch.
I paddled into 4 or 5 nice ones and rode them all the way through. My cynicism turned to stoke as the sun came out, the rain stopped and the wind died right down. John was way under-gunned but was taking off right under the lip and getting some crackers.
Then another guy paddled out and a few minutes later Andy Marr and Spike arrived in the lineup. I was so stoked to see some other guys out there! I'd never met Andy before, I've just seen the videos of him and seen the insane pics of him, so it was an incredible privilege to meet him and to surf with him. At one point my leash got caught in the kelp and I started to panic as I could see a set coming and I was stuck. Andy obviously saw me struggling and the look of panic on my face. "Just relax, you've got time", he said. "take off your leash and thread it through, don't worry, you're fine" I calmed down, followed his instructions and we just made it over the top of a monster swell before it unloaded on the shelf. I was so grateful!
A few minutes later a really wide set came through. I hadn't caught one in about 20 minutes and I happened to be right in the middle of the group. "Turn and paddle" John shouted at me. "Go, go go" yelled Andy and Spike. I swung around, didn't even look behind me and just paddled the 8'0 as hard as I could. The next moment I was looking down what felt like a 5 storey building, was On my feet and hurtling down the face. The wave got bigger and bigger as I raced it towards the inside. I felt like I was riding the whole Atlantic Ocean. My mind was blown, I was freaking out, I just put my hands on my head as I flew off the shoulder as the wave dissipated into the deep water again. I looked back to the horizon and saw all the ous with their hands in the air - I was so stoked and stunned. And grateful to be alive.
We all caught a good couple of waves after that and eventually paddled in in the dark with the moon already high over the mountains of the Peninsula.
A definite land mark day for me - and I was so stoked to share it with Spike, Andy, John and the Flag Guy (not sure what his real name is) and my surfing horizons have been well and truly broadened in the last 2 days!
Apparently there is going to be massive swell here tomorrow - so who knows what adventure lies ahead for us. If I'm still alive to tell the tale, it'll be here. watch this space.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| The Factory |
| 3 June 2009, 23:23 |
I'd never surfed The Factory before. John was convinced this would be an experience that would "broaden my horizons". Understatement of the f**king year. I was amped to surf Misty Cliffs - at least I knew it and there were other guys out there. Not a chance.
With John behind the wheel we mad e a beeline straight for The Factory. We paddled around the actual factory building, through the copious amounts of smelly kelp, and over the boils and onto the shelf. I was terrified. The water was a sif brown and there were seals popping up all over the place. Hmmmm.
The swell was a wonkey west swell, inconsistent and shifty. Not huge, but with enough power, that when it sucked up off the shelf, it quickly mutated and warped into a fast, brown wall of water that detonated over the shallow shelf. The first 3 sets that came through sent me paddling toward Scarborough, while John paddled the opposite direction, into the jaws of the wave and disappeared behind a white, exploding curtain of water (leaving me on my Pat Malone without another human in sight in the seal smorgasbord of a line up)
"Paddle to the inside" John yelled at me as he came back. "You need to paddle from behind the peak and backdoor it - that's the only way" Yeah right. After another 40 minutes of dodging the peak and trying to paddle into the shoulder ("I'll give you a hundred rand if you catch one from there") I thought F#*k it and resigned myself to the fact that I was going to get dealt.
Surprisingly, and overcoming all my instincts to get the hell out of there, I turned and stroked into a wave that I was sure should have landed on my dome, flew down the face and was doing a 30m bottom turn at what felt like warp speed. Whooohoooo! After what felt like ages, I turned and paddled back through the smelly kelp to do it over and over again.
Welcome to the Factory.
P.S Today was at about a 1 out of 10 - I can't even begin to imagine what this place must be like when it's 10-12ft and cooking. Tomorrow might be the day. I'll keep you posted.
Iain
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| From balmy Durbs to icy Cape Town |
| 2 June 2009, 22:25 |
| Cape Town is like a very beautiful and unpredictable woman. You are never quite sure of what you'll get or how long it may last but the potential for real magic sits quietly below the surface until it bursts forth in all its wild glory to blow your mind. Yesterday evening I was surfing the leftovers of a very nice long period swell at the New Pier in Durban. Louise, Ted,
Tookie, WW, Davey Van Zyle and myself traded fun little runners into the disco light of the Golden Mile's evening time. Louise was surfing in a bikini, the guys were in boardies or shorties. This evening I surfed a wild reef off the Cape Peninsular with Spike and a couple of hardcore hooded locals. I was rubbered to the hilt. Steamer, booties, gloves, hoodie (thanks Alwin) I was taking no chances. The surf was probably only 4-5ft but the energy of the ocean under the raw power of a real Norwester was something to behold. Just as the sun set it popped out from the clouds to make everything seem mythical and then just as soon it was gone, leaving behind a wind and rain swept gloom. I've said it before but Cape Surfers are frikken hardcore. In June/ July Durban may as well be on a whole different planet to CT. The activity of wave riding down here in the Cape compared to what happens in KZN may as well be a whole different sport/pasttime/activity. We're here for a while so will keep you posted on the adventures of two VERY soft Durbanites trying to get waves in midwinter Cape Town.
|
| |
| share this blog |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
share this blog |
|
|
|
|
.gif)
.jpg)
.gif)
.gif)
.jpg)
