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| Making the call |
| 27 January 2009, 16:01 |
Blog 9 – Making the call, Twig checks in.
It's amazing what happens when a major swell is detected for the North
Pacific. First you see the signs on the long range weather maps, big
low pressures forecast to sweep across from Japan to Alaska. Then the
surf forecasters catch on and there swell charts show big red, black
and sometimes white spirals set to spew the swell of the year to every
North West facing surf spot from Hawaii to Mexico.
But unfortunately because of a law that requires these forecasters to
show the biggest possible seas to ensure safe boating what always
happens is that these swells are slowly downgraded until by the time
they reach the coast they are a fraction of their originally
forecasted size and strength.
It's difficult to not get caught up in all the hype particularly if
you are waiting to surf in one or more of the Big Wave events and as
always we were deeply involved in what was happening in connection
with The Eddie, Mavericks and Jaws events.
First it was the Eddie, will it run? The swell looks big but the
timing is wrong and it was coming with bad Kona winds. Jaws is
offshore in these winds but not rideable if to strong and even though
the conditions for Mavericks looked amazing ,would the swell maintain
its size and energy on its 5000km journey from Hawaii where the storm
lost momentum?
So one by one the events where called off until just Mavericks was
left and it was up to Jeff Clark to make the hard call and as always
he got it spot on and didn't call the contest which was as always a
great call because the great North American surf spot only peaked at
12-15ft all be it absolutely perfect.
We on the other hand had one more call to make. Where did we feel the
best possible place to surf would be? Should we just stay at Mav's and
embrace the crowd? Should we go North and test out some new heaving
slabs? Or do we head South to another country completely and take on
crooked cops and out of work bandits?
Hours of studying charts, wind forecasts and weather maps led us to
make a decision which we felt would put us in the best possible place
to score the best possible waves. The rest as we have learnt is pure
luck....Nature will take its course and there's no point in worrying
either way.
Then it's all about the lies....ha ha Where are you going? Who are you
taking? How do you think it will be?
You can't tell the truth, got to keep some secrets even from your
closest friend and sponsors.
So off we went, the swell wasn't the best ever as they where claiming
but we scored good solid waves by ourselves in a desolate and
beautiful area.
And now once again the North Pacific has gone flat, and looks to be
staying flat for some time but we keep getting our attention drawn to
its little brother the North Atlantic. Huge crazy storms have been
smashing into the West coasts for the past few weeks and as always
it's time to make another call?
I'll let you know next week.
See ya
Twig
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| Shark attack! |
| 25 January 2009, 22:44 |
It's the kind of news that as ocean users we all dread. "Shark attack!". Flip, where? When? Who? What happened? On saturday at Lunch time an off duty Life guard at Port St John's was fatally attacked off Second Beach, apparently while bodysurfing. We still don't know what his name is as his next of kin have yet to be notified, but the news accompanies a kind of reflex chill down the spine. I saw the photo's and they're horrific. This guy stood no chance at all. It appears as if either one big shark took two bites out of him or two big sharks each took a big bite out of him. Either way there is no way a human can survive that kind of trauma. After the first giddy chills of horror swept through me I sat down and tried to process what had just happened.
As the initial shock of it all subsided I was able to study the images more objectively. The trauma that he was subjected to meant that he would have died within minutes if that. It was I reasoned a very quick death, doing what he loved. Yes he was young, and yes his life was cut short but his suffering though surely intense was short lived.
We all die at some point and while no one wishes for an early end, a long life of suffering and fear is hardly an attractive proposition. If I could choose a long lingering illness or a quick but brutal ending like he had I reckon I'd go for the latter. Of course if I could really choose I'd want to live to 100 and be surfing everyday on the way there!
I think it was Shakespeare who once said "man has nothing to fear except fear itself". Somehow those words ran around my brain as I processed the demise of this young man. He simply didn't have time to fear, it was all over almost as soon as it began. It's up to the rest of us to decide if we'll let the fear in. And if we do, what kind of effect it will have on us as we grow older.
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| Chris Bertish's blog no 2 |
| 22 January 2009, 08:16 |
Chris Bertish's blog No.2 from Mavericks, Nor Cal.
So before the opening ceremony I speed South and rack up add another quick 1000km’s on my good old rent a car to visit Shaun Alladio-K38 PWC Rescue guru, The lady is a legend in big surf rescue and training and we spent time updating training and having some good laughs with her five year old Shania, before saying our good bye’s and driving North to catch the Opening Ceremonies of the Mavericks Big Wave Invitational which is always a special ceremony and good party.
The ceremony starts off with the best in the worlds big Wave riders invitee’s standing in their suits, with their boards behind each other, while Jeff Clark, friend and & contest Director says a couple words in honour of all the past big wave riders &watermen who have lost their lives riding the mountains we come to challenge and try our best to tame.
Jeff runs though each rider in the row of big wave riders and says a couple of words. To be a part of this is such an honour, most people will never quite understand. To be standing there part of this unique and special group of internationally recognized big wave legends is such an honour and privilege.
A privilege not given, but one that is earned by dedication, commitment and plenty of sacrifice. But to be standing there amongst so many of your childhood hero’s and be part of the elite group, a big wave brotherhood is one of the most amazing feelings in the world, knowing that you finally have made it, earned that spot and it makes everything and every hardship you have ever had to face and overcome worth it, like it was nothing.
We all paddle out and join hands in a big circle out in the water and Jeff says a blessing and everyone says a couple of words in respect of being part of this special place, ceremony and being part of this truly unique group that get to charge these incredible waves out at Mavericks every Winter.
The ceremony finishes and by chance a couple waves are breaking so we all paddle out and share a couple together, howling and hooting like little happy school kids at a party.
Everyone meets afterwards for drinks and dinner at the heat selection party, where the heats get randomly drawn, which is always a good laugh.
My heat gets drawn...Twiggy, myself, Zach Wormhout, Carlos Burle, Grant Washburn and Alex Martins. Holy smoke is that the final? No that’s the first round heat! This just demonstrates the level of competition. Every heat looks like a final, as you run through them. Well, two Saffa’s in the same heat, perfect, that means two Saffa’s that are going to have to be going through to the Semi’s and so the party begins and goes on late into the night.
When this crew gets together, it always gets festive to say the least...
 
Greg Long and I in the pic on the left, and Brock little and myself in the pic on the right.
The next day there are small waves at Mavericks and after wiping off the cobwebs a weary few paddle out to share some waves together Twig, myself, Washburn, Greg Long and Frank Soloman.
The next week is filled with lots of training in the pool, acupuncture and shock treatment on the knee with a forecast for a big swell on the horizon and some super fun Stand up paddle sessions with Jeff and friends..
With the forecast looking good for the 17/18th Jan, everyone starts getting amped and the energy and rumours start circulating about the contest possibly running on the Fri 17th.
As news travels the frenzy begins and the hype escalates to a mad, overwhelming barrage of phone calls and predictions, which have everybody frothing at the prospect of the event running under unusual, warm weather, blue skies and possible perfect conditions.
To not get caught up in all the hype and frenzy, when this what you have been building up to and working towards for the last couple of years is near impossible and so the emotional rollercoaster ride continues.
By the 16th, the contest is on, no it’s not, the bouy readings are big enough, no they downgrading after a day of sitting with Jeff while hearing him dealing with over fifty calls to media and forecasters as he was making the final call, I thought I would have to head to the nearest physiatrist ward to get admitted, cause I thought I was going over the edge from the anxiety.
Geoff and I making the call
At the end of the day, the high pressure persisted off the coast and stopped the storm system from strengthening, so the contest was not called, which was a huge disappointment for many of us, but it was the right call and it meant that there would still be great waves at Mavericks over the weekend, just not 20ft thundering Mavericks (40ft faces).
The swell ended up being even later than forecasted and only arrived Friday during the night, but Saturday blessed us with flawlessly glassy 12ft conditions under warm, blue sunny skies. Thirty surfers in the line-up, very possibly more, all sharing waves and having way too much fun in epic, unusual, glassy, warm winter conditions...
I surfed for a couple hours with the boys; mostly going left at Mavz, as going right and being the deepest is not a good thing when you get stuffed, not able to bottom turn, because you have four people on your outside.
Tweaking my knee trying to avoid another rider I knew it was time to go in, so I got a late drop and rode it through the inside bowl, while seeing it learching I pulled up high and got barrelled off my pip and just as it clam-shelled I snuck out getting clipped as I snuck through the front of the lip, laying back and re-gaining my balance, stoked, smiling and feeling the energy & stoke of what being here is all about. I rode it in...Having a special ace up my sleeve. I my pack up my board try and convince a couple of friends I know a wave that will be 12ft and cranking, but no one believes me, so pack in a burrito and head south at high speed, knowing a wave that I surfed solo a couple of times before, which might be cranking!
Just under two hours later I am pulling into one of the most exclusive golf courses on the planet and home to one of the best big wave spots on the planet! Tow surf waves, wrong! Best paddle waves in the world...I pull into the car park and watch a 12-15fter hammer down the point...
Overwhelmed by stoke, I suit up in and am walking down Pebble golf course and jump into the water in a matter of four and a half minutes. Of course there’s no one out...Only ever heard of one guy out there and that was Don Curry who took me out three years ago to paddle into a couple 15ft bombs, since then it’s been solo missions all the way.
I paddle out and score perfect gassy 12 feet waves, solo for an hour and half of bliss & perfection, before the sun sinks below the horizon. Only in America can you surf the top big wave spot with forty people and then drive an hour and half and surf just as big perfection by yourself. Magic!
The following day, Don Curry and I launch the ski and head 59km’s down the coast to surf some secret spots, while taking in the breathtaking Monterrey Bay scenery.
I come back just in time on Monday the 19th, for a small swell and a free Go Pro camera from the contestants’ pack, to mount it on my board and paddle out and score some sick footage and great, fun waves at Mavericks, while getting the first ever onboard Mavericks surf footage... A good day!
And as the swell dies and trip comes to a close, as the forecast looks weak for the next two weeks, work back home beckons and the responsibilities of life catch up with me. With the rands running low, our currency not our best friend and very little swell on the horizon for the next couple weeks it’s time to look at heading home...and with the contest on 24 hour notice, the journey doesn’t end hear.
Every time the phone rings, it could be that call over the next two months...The contest status is green light...get your ass over here, were on! I’ll have to drop everything and run, be on the next flight back over here, to charge another bomb and fly the big wave flag for my homeland...because you don’t miss the chance to live your dreams when you get this close..This is life, live it, love it, embrace it. Live every moment and have no regrets!
Stay tuned...Chris Bertish out!
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| Bad surfs happen for a reason - Part II |
| 19 January 2009, 21:34 |
So we wake up at 3am this morning - hit the road until dawn and after some serious 4x4ing arrive at this pristine beach. The crew paddle out - the conditions are perfect, but the wave we've mission to surf isn't firing as we thought it would. It's coming through, but lurching up and closing out over a shallow slab, instead of barreling like we expected. There's a lot of wildlife around too.
So we get out easily enough and I paddle straight into the first wave of the set. One minute I'm stroking into it, the next I'm free falling straigh at the slab. Bad place to be. Eventually I come up and the first thing I hear (after bellows of laughter) is "did you hit the bottom?"
My board is bust.
I paddle it over the slab and across this very sketchy channel back to shore. I mission back to the vehicles, rig up John's 6"3 and head back out there. By now, the lads have tried to surf this wave and it's just not happenning. We try surf it for another half hour or so, but the ous are over it.
Then a huge ray leaps out the water just behind us (in the sketchy channel) and that's the signal that it's time to head in!
It's a long way back home, but we're not bummed. In fact we're pretty philosophical about the mission. After all, the act of surfing is just one part of the larger experience.
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| Bad surfs happen for a reason |
| 18 January 2009, 23:16 |
I didn't have a good surf today. I paddled out alone at my favourite S Coast spot. There was swell all right, but it was shifty and peaky and difficult to read. Pretty large and very shallow, with the clean out sets booming through every now and again, giving me a good drubbing. I started out good, had a nice clean opening wave, did a full rail to rail turn off my backhand and was stoked, thinking it was gonna be epic.
I was wrong.
I didn't get another good wave after that. I paddled too late on a big one, got thrashed, then caught on the inside, washed over some rocks, beaten by a monster clean out set and then when I finally got out again, went straight over the falls on my next wave. Repeat rinse cycle above.
Finally, got back to where I thought the take off zone should be, waited 15 minutes for a wave to break there and when one did come, I was so mad with myself, I tried to take it out on the wave and rip it to pieces, only to fall off on the bottom turn and get worked again.
That's when I called it quits and paddled in.
It was a quiet ride home as I contemplated my afternoon's efforts. The one thing I can take out of the experience is that not every surf you're gonna surf your best. You're gonna have day's when you suprise yourself by how good you're surfing, and other days, like today, when you just can't get it right.
My Dad once said to me ..."when things are going a little pear shaped, just do the simple things well" and maybe that's what I should have done today. Accept that it's going pear shaped, then try to just do the simple things well.
I'll chalk that one up to experience.
Iain.
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| North beach summer evening |
| 15 January 2009, 16:07 |
Yesterday I had a yearning to be by the ocean. I'd surfed earlier in the day and was satisfied to just sit on the boardwalk at North Beach and feel the rythmn of the ocean while watching the afterwork crew sharing waves in the bowl. I watched Pierre Tostee on a fish, flying over sections and carving cutback off the top combo's. It looked so fun I wanted to run down to the water's edge and ask him for a ride. Then there was Donald. Donald is a full on waterman. Surfboard, longboard, SUP, paddleboard, Kitesurf, bodysurf, you name it. If it floats he rides it. This evening he was riding a SUP. With effortless grace and style he simply flowed with the waves almost as a part of it. Truly amazing to watch. Then my eye was caught by a flamboyant goofyfooter on a shortboard. Full on top to bottom turns. No wiggles, flaps or squats. Just reckless abandon over the rail with really clean turns, tight archs and lots of spray. It was beautiful to watch. I walked down the pier to get a closer look and try and identify the young soldier. It turns out the young soldier was a girl, Tana who works for Roxy. Wow, she was surfing better than most of the girls she organises contests for and quite a few guys I know. I was impressed. Her eyes sparkled with the stoke of her afterwork session and I realised that for most of us this is what its really all about. The freedom to just go and express yourself the way you want. Here were 3 surfers from 3 different generations all riding different boards with their own unique style just having fun. If I'd had to pick a winner I couldn't have. And that made me realise that sometimes we pigeon hole surfing just to get a result. Surfing itself just spontaneously flows 'out of the box' into the realm of pure art. As I ran back down the pier to escape a tropical evening shower I somehow found that a comforting thought.
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| Twig blog 8, Mavs opening ceremony |
| 13 January 2009, 08:56 |
Hey Guys,
Well it's had been a few days of really good waves in San Francisco, hanging out with Frank, Rusty, Greg ,Jessie and Kate and getting some nice beachbreak in the 4-8ft range but we were all looking forward to the Mavs Ceremony and by the time it rolled around on Tuesday we were ready for a good party and once again it didn't disappoint...
We headed out to Pillar Point around 2:30pm where Jeff Clark introduced us all and it's always a wonder to see who you are standing shoulder to shoulder with. The likes of Brock Little, Grant Washburn, Flea, Skinny, Peter Mel, Tassie, Shaun Rodes and other Mavericks legends always makes you feel nervous and out of depth.
So with cameras flashing and videos recording we paddled out to our annual circle where each competitor has a say about what the contest means to them, why they love Mavericks and various odes to departed comrades . It's a moving and motivating moment and gives you that sense of camaraderie and brotherhood that Mavericks and big waves bring. Once the circle broke up we paddled out to the bowl to try and catch a wave in the declining swell and actually managed to get into a few.
So all psyched, we started drinking beer and Jim Beam who is the official sponsor in between Tequila shots, heats were drawn, old friends revisited and stories swapped and all of a sudden the party was in full swing and its parties like that with friends like those that are the reason why I love surfing and the surfing culture.
A little tender the next day, we had a slow start but got some fun waves at Mavs leading towards sunset and it was like the contest was a good omen because suddenly the weather was great, we had some decent swell and the 10 day forecasts where looking very meaty.
Once all the madness had passed, Kate and I headed up the North Coast of California in our trusty van to stay with some new friends we met at the party and enjoyed four days of epic waves, dinners and all the other harvests of Norcal.
The last two days we headed further North to meet up with Tazzy, Rusty and Frank. The scenery and waves only got more insane and up there we were out of touch with the human world. No cell signal, no internet, just the road and the surf.
But it's time to return to the real world, the swell charts are looking epic for the next week. The winter has finally started to kick in and there is a lot of excitement in the air. All three of the events are on hold (Eddie, Jaws and Mavericks) with my opinion being that there is too much wind for Hawaii but it's looking perfect for Mavericks and I would be surprised if the event didn't run on Friday.
So wish me luck, I need all I can get....And hopefully in my next blog I would have wrestled the title back from Greg.
I'll let you know!!
See ya
Twig |
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| Chris Bertish blogs from San Francisco |
| 11 January 2009, 20:10 |
Hi my name is Chris Bertish, for those who don’t know me, I’m thirty three, been working in the surf industry for the last eight years and I’ve been surfing for twenty odd years and big waves for roughly fifteen and still learning.
I have been coming to Northern California & Hawaii for eight years on and off.
I was the first South African to make it on the Alternates list for the Mavericks event and but have never made the main invitee list until this year.It’s a long and hard road, but if you make the top 24, it’s all worthwhile, now they just have to run the event so I can represent and kick ass.
But it doesn’t all just happen and you jump on a plane and there you are...As many of you know being South African isn’t easy, visa nightmares, minimal sponsorships, the rand dollar exchange and jobs that won’t give you enough leave, all these factors make it really difficult to achieve your dreams.
This is where good old South African enginuity, sacrifice, commitment and dogged determination come in. If you want it enough, you’ll make it happen, no matter what it takes.
Over the last eight years I’ve lost or sacrificed numerous girlfriends, sacrificed many opportunities, parties, jobs and amounts in cash that would have paid up a house in full, with the trips I’ve made, the pilgrimage to live the dream, to get an invite to the heaviest Big Wave Invitational event in the world-The Mavericks event. 24 of the world’s best big wave paddle surfers, a three month waiting period, pitted against the heaviest big wave spot on the planet!
Picture Kalk Bay at twenty feet (40ft faces), a mile out to sea, deep dark and ugly, water as cold and frigid as Dunes in mid-summer, except with a wind chill factor of 5 degrees and below, very big great whites which bite or bump surfers annually, with jagged pinnacles of rock sticking up on the inside section 15ft out of the water, that strike fear into the bravest of big wave warriors. Welcome to the heaviest spot on the planet, welcome to Mavericks.
So, does it begin when I book my ticket and get on the plane? I don’t think so.
It starts in August, the training begins...training? What?
Training once or twice a day, besides surfing, six days a week for four months before I leave to get into the right shape and be ready to take three beasts on the head and live to tell the tail. September is when I stop drinking...zero tolerance for three months before I leave, as part of the training and prep for the trip.and then a day before the I leave in middle December, I partly tear my MCL ligament in my knee. Specialist says 8-12 weeks out...Wrong! Not when you put this much into getting ready...Welcome to my life!
So I postpone my trip three days, that should do it, see a couple of specialists and an acupuncturist and get a kick ass knee brace and head off to Northern California, barely able to walk.
So day 1, I land in San Francisco, grab a rent a car big enough to take my 9.2 big wave stick and I hit the road...
I head out to meet an old friend, big Wave legend and Mavericks guru, Jeff Clark.We touch base, he shows me two new boards he’s shaped for me, magic peaches and catch up over a traditional Starbucks coffee, I look at the forecast - the next four days are looking small.
So I decide to head North to Oregon, rest the knee and avoid getting tempted by the ocean and go meet up with the guys of Naish International, to pick up a paddleboard I can use while I’m here. Six hours on the road later and the sirens start. First speeding ticket and the cop wants to take me to jail, I’m over the limit by 20 mph.Not good in this country, if you that much over, you go to jail...I sweet talk the guy, plead ignorance as a poor South African, I get a pretty ugly ticket 60$ and I’m on the road, into the heaviest snow storm so far of the winter heading to Oregon.
With a ten hour drive into one of the heaviest snow storms of the season, all seems a little sketchy, but optimism right now is my best friends.
And so the snow begins to fall and the roads slow and then the snow really starts coming down and that’s where a little foresight helps.Snow chains for the rent a car. Stoked I bought them before the trip, just never put any on before and I have no shoes..Just my Ocean Minded flip flops.Not clever Bertish! So imagine lying on your back on the side of the road in flip-flops in 6inch snow trying to put snow chains on your tyres...Not funny and frikken cold. After one tyre, I jump back in my car and turn the heater onto my frozen toes full blast till they unthaw, then I jump out to do the other one...Repeat the cycle till snow tired up and then head out at 60km top speed with chains..Nice.
I check in to get some rest and head out again early...Well that’s if I can find my car...under all the snow.45 minutes with a Starbucks coffee cup to dig my way out and I’m on the road again...ha-ha, classic!
The roads are hectic, but I manage to get up to the Salmon River, Oregon another seven hours meet up with the Naish International guys at the HQ, they are super cool. They laugh at my stories and that I’m still wearing my trusty flip flops and kit me out with a new Naish stand up paddleboard 9,6ft to use while I’m in town and they mention that the storm just starting to hit is bad and if I don’t leave now, I’ll probably be snowed in for the next couple days. So I pack it all in my car and hot foot it back south.
What a funny couple days...got to laugh!
I stop off on the way and stand up paddle Shazda lake with snowy mountains in the background solo..So beautiful & peaceful!
Between then and Christmas, its lots of acupuncture and swimming and paddle boarding to keep fit and to strengthen the knee.I hate needles!
I’m back just in time for Christmas with Jeff Clark and Cassandra, his lovely wife and Pico the pet and just in time for a small 10-12ft day at Mavs.Wrap that leg and put it in a heavy brace and head out with Jeff, for a paddle on my new flying peach. A magic 9.1fter, Jeff shaped for me, before I arrived.
W e share laughs and trade waves while reminiscing about past swells and good times, under a crisp, chilly, but bright blue sky and share some super fun waves, with no wipe outs for me, to keep the leg safe and in one piece.
The waves stay small, and New Years comes and goes with house parties in the streets in San Francisco.Not much surf besides some fun SUP sessions in Santa Cruz and some good times catching up with old friends...
The forecast is looking better for the next week or two and the opening ceremony is in a couple days, so life is good 2009 is looking good!
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| Twig checks in from San Fran |
| 7 January 2009, 14:03 |
Twig checks in from San Fran:
Hey Guys,
Well it's been a bit of a slow week for me and I don't have much to report except that San Francisco is an amazing city and it never seems to grow old for me when visiting. It's the total opposite to Los Angeles and defiantly the place I call home away from home.
It's the birthplace of the hippies and the hi-tech computer industry. Apple and Google call it there home as do Neil Young and Jello Biafra. It's oozing with culture and the people are warm friendly and socially motivated. There is no racism and even though the population is made up of a 100 different cultures they all seem to co-exist in peaceful harmony.
The waves are fantastic for a city and even rival our Durban for quality and consistency, Ocean Beach can be anything from a fun inside rip bank to a big barrelling outer bar and everything in between. It's a great training ground and is as demanding and taxing as any beach break in the world to get out and into position for a good wave.
So when Mavericks is too small and the winds are offshore as it's been this week, we stay in Ocean Beach with a friend of mine big loud Jeff "Clever" Harrison, we surf the beach, we drink at Tommy's tequila bar and we eat and dance at the various restaurants and nightclubs around the city.
But this gets a bit tedious after a while and we always have our eyes on the maps....And the maps I'm pleased to announce are changing for the better.
It's looking good for the next week with swells for Oregon and Hawaii, these are far out and could change but at least there's hope and I'll keep you informed.
See ya
Twig |
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| Hi Ho, it's back to work we go. |
| 6 January 2009, 12:27 |
So it's back to work for most of us this week. For some of my mates, it's a relief for them to get back into a working routine. Doing nothing but surfing, over eating and boozing for 2 weeks has had some detrimental side effects - literally. The boys are looking a little rounder than usual and the significant others are starting to worry that their men will grow too accustomed to the good life!
I guess it's the groms who score a luck now - they still have a few weeks to surf without all the work crew in the water.
As you can see, John and I are back in the office too.
Have a great 2009 and looking forward to seeing lots of you in the water around our beautiful coastline over the next year. Look out for issue 2 of theBOMBsurf - it'll be out 1st week of March.
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