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| October blogs |
| 31 October 2008, 23:26 |
Friday 31 Oct
What a cool day! Started off with the mandatory surf...such a good bank at North Beach and not too crowded either (Ok, Ok, so we only got in at 7.30am!) but reallly fun rights sucking up against the rip off the pier and reeling down the sandbar. John got such a sick barrel! Then a quick morning meeting with our South Coast bud Frenchie...he had Casey Grant in tow, so John and Frenchie talked shop while Casey and I played around with a cool surfing java game that we're looking at getting for the site!
Then we cruised to Clayton's shop downtown and hung out for the morning, it was buzzing! Bunches of people all coming and going, all talking surfing, boards, surfing media (obviously we had to tell them about theBOMB!) and technique. Clayton has developed some really cool coaching tools and just from our chat, I was fired up to go and try some of this out.
So naturally we hit the surf again, and it was good- again! John managed to do whole lot of buiness between the parking lot and the end of the pier, which was great for me 'cos I had the whole bowl to myself! But soon the lunchtime locals pulled in, including the ever smiling Tamarys and a really brave little charger she was coaching, Courtney Eilish. With my new found coaching knowledge it was a good session, everyone pushing each other and encouraging each other, trading waves and tips. Positive stuff.
Finally, we hit the post surf muchies at our new favourite spot - "Vrushniks 100% Karma free bunnies" - possible the best after surf chow on the planet - ask Spike and Ross from Wavescape!!
Another good day...might just pop down for one last surf before the sun drops.
Iain
Thurs 30th Oct
When we started theBOMBsurf, we made a simple decision: "Only work with the best." Sounds simple, but it's often easy to compromise, take short cuts, use the cheaper options or to go with a familiar choice instead of missioning for the best. Everything we do at theBOMBsurf is about creating the best media we can.
That's why I want to introduce you to a few of our friends who've been grafting on theBOMBsurf since day one: First up there's Jon Ivins. He's a freelance designer, photographer and passionate waterman. Jon helped us design theBOMBsurf logos, icons and masthead, he came up with the web look and feel and stylized our business identity. He is also designing and laying out the mag for us. Check out www.jonivins.com for more of his work.
Then of course there's our guru web developer and cyber genius, Patrick, who built this entire website from scratch. He custom made us all the modules and plug ins that you see on this site as well as helped us (not so genius web people) manage the content ourselves by building an entire backend that even we can use. I'm sure most of you would agree, Pat did an awesome job on the site. Check out www.roundbox.co.za for more of his work.
So yesterday, myself,John, Jon and Patrick had team meeting to plot the first mag deadline and the innovations we have up our sleeve for the website. It was a lunch time meeting at Joe's and it happened just as the west started to fan the bowls, the tide started pushing and the swell started building. We soon abandoned our meeting and hit the water - what a fun session!
Dooma, making the most of the fun conditions at North yesterday.
And that's the beauty of what we do - work with cool people, make cool products and have a jol doing 'em.
Iain
Thursday 30th Oct
With 16 places out of 32 going to Brazilians in R2 of the Hang Loose Santa Catarina Pro, the odd’s seem stacked to assist in a home grown winner of the event. For me aside from the saffas who all have do or die match ups in R2, the focus must shift on to one man. Taj Burrow. In the absence of so many top 15 surfers that this event has become almost farcical to its WCT status, Taj has put his money where his mouth is... the whole year long. At the beginning of the year he said he was going to give it a full go and he has. Respect. If one of the saffas don’t win it I hope he does.
Imbituba. Looking promising for a decent running of the Hang Loose Pro. Is this Taj's moment?
Photo couretesy ASP world tour.
John
Wed 29th Oct
When I’m at home the first thing I do everyday is go to the beach. If there are waves I surf and if there aren’t I either swim in the sea or the pool depending on conditions. This morning I pulled up to my local to be greeted by what I thought was a flat ocean. On with the swimming goggles and into the water. On the way I bumped into Sam (works for Fox and a devout daily surfer). He told me he’d managed 4 turns on his last wave... Yeah right I thought. I swim about a km. It can be easy or hard depending on the conditions. Today was as good as it gets for swimming. Almost no swell, clean water, no current. I breezed through my route with the impending actions of the day sifting through my thoughts as the Durban skyline moved passed my horizon. Lovely. Half way through my swim and tucked behind one of the piers I discovered a hotbed of Surfing talent. Davey Weare, Dooma and Simon Nicholson were trading waves with a bunch of red hot locals. It was only 2’ but flip was it game on! I swam back to the beach and exchanged my goggles for my trusty small wave shortboard. Running down the beach I bumped into Alwyn. For those of you who don’t know Alwyn he’s an all round waterman. Surfer, kitesurfer, tow surfer, SUP surfer, bodysurfer. Alwyn tempted me into trying his SUP. What the hell I thought and gave it a shot. The first 10mins were hard but I slowly got the hang of it. I still can’t believe that guys ride 20’ waves on these things . Anyway by putting myself out there I gained a new perspective, different from the one I had swimming along the same stretch of coastline. Then back to the beach trade the SUP for my shortboard and off to the secret hiding behind the pier. To my delight I got there as the ‘Goof Troop’ were leaving. What a luck. I ended up getting a bunch of fun waves I would never have got if I hadn’t of put myself out there. On my last wave, an absolute bomb, I cracked at least 5 decent turns before stepping off onto the beach. Stoked! Wow, my whole perspective on the day was changing and I was beginning to understand the stoke that Sam had exhibited when he told me earlier how he’d had 4 turns on a wave. This evening surfing the net, and trying to find news on how our CT crew had faired today along with how Twig is going in the tow event in Chile, it struck me how gnarly it is for our pros when they hit the road to tour. There is nowhere to hide as we scruitenise their every move. Unfortunately for us either through defeat or no show the Saffas all struck out in R1 of the Brazo event. Also couldn’t get news from Twig.
What do these mullets have in common? Well the perspective they share is pretty unique. It’s go big or go home! With the new judging criteria it’s all about ‘putting yourself out there’. Win lose or draw these guys are seeing things we could never hope to see. That said in every one of us lies the potential to broaden our horizons. Whether its going for a swim, trying something new or just stepping up to compete. The whole key is realising the importance of putting oneself out there.
John
Mon 27th Oct
Over the last few weeks I've been amazed by what the power of positive energy can do. On our roadtrip we met some incredible people who energized us with their positive energy and in turn we spread positive energy wherever we went and saw the effect it had on those we came into contact with.
Yesterday, we had a quick luchtime surf at Wedge and then on our way back to the parking lot jumped in at North where there was a little bowl next to the pier. Out of nowhere about a dozen kids arrived at the same time, launched off the pier like lemmings into the water - hollering, yelling and joking with each other - all so charged up and keen. The surf wasn't even that good. But just by seeing their energy suddenly John, myself and the handful of others who were already out, suddenly started paddling harder, surfing faster, turning harder. John got a sick barrel - What? Where did that come from? From going over the falls properly on my last 2 waves, I stuck the steep drop on the next couple and had great rides - all because we were psyched on the energy these kids brought to the water.
By now we were late for our post-lunch meeting, but we were charged up and stoked after our session. The young lady who met us at reception was clearly happy to see two stoked guys coming in buzzing with energy - she in turn was so helpful (plus she brought us these absolutely killer cappuccinos with the little biscuits and everything - now how often does that happen?). Then we went into an insane meeting - so many great ideas and cool creative thinking and positive intentions for what we want to do with theBOMbsurf mag and the website - it was just incredible.
And that's what the last couple of weeks have been like. One person inspiring the next, who in turn spreads the stoke and so on. Like I said, it's amazing what the power of positive energy can do.
Iain
Sat 25th Oct
Its 4:30pm on Sat. The arvo of the Currie Cup Final. The beachfront is deserted save for Dozza (ex blunt ad exec and newly self employed agency bod). Dozza tips me off. “The Wedge bowl mate, that’s where it’s at...” before he dashes off late to the game.
I paddle out alone. To be honest from the shore it doesn’t look great. I’m thinking maybe I should have gone to the game? Then suddenly its on! Left after left. Little barrels, floaters speed blurs, cutbacks. I’m exhausted after 10 mins. I become more selective and slow the tempo down, but the pace is relentless. Surfing bowls like these when the good waves come you just have to go. The fact that I’m alone and taking off on a new wave every 3mins is irrelevant. It’s an absolute wave fest. I make a pig of myself.
The only audience I have are a couple of stoned fishermen. 
The only thing I have to worry about is the occasional sinker they cast in my direction out of pure habit and an inbred hatred for surfers. But even this is half hearted. The zol must be good. After an hour of recycling through the bowl I’m done. I rush back through the car park and get to watch the second half of the game and the Sharks win. Whoohoo! Life is good.
John
Fri 24th October
Jordy is a legend. No, not that Jordy. The other Jordy. He's a 6 year old grom, son of Andre and Surette Malherbe - and owner of the wickedest plastic tool set in East London. We know this because at 6am this morning, he came charging through into the living room and dived head first into John, who was happily snoring away, plastic tool set in tow.
Lucky for us, the early start meant we got to hit the Reef early (once Jordy and Luke had gone to school of course, else I would never have been able to tear John away from the plastic tools they were playing with).
The reef looked like this:
 
Pretty sick hey? The locals were on it and shredding and it's no wonder the slummies boys have that long, arching, full rail-to rail cutback wired. Even with the wind, the Reef provided some absolute crackers, a big slow feathering wall just waiting to be gouged, hacked and carved to pieces. And the boys didn't hold back.
After surfing our brains out, we hit the road for the long drive home. A huge thanks to Andre and the locals at Nahoon for sharing their epic spot with us. Sure, the Reef has a reputation for being sketch but honestly, if I lived in EL I'd also be out there everyday and the local crew show this in their surfing and their friendship in the water. Nice one guys and good luck for the Border closed this weekend, hope it goes well and looking forward to the pics and the full story!
So, we're at the end of a hectic 10 days on the road, and as I type this, John is threading the trust X-trail through, over and around the taxis, trucks, cows, goats, and Pigs (both kinds) and potholes of the Transkei.
We're nearly home...and I just want to do it all again. Thankfully, we can and we will.
Fri 23 Oct
When John and I got together and decided to start Big Ocean Media Bros, aka theBOMB our primary objective was to create a lifestyle based business. One where we wouldn’t have to go to work everyday in an office or answer to any boss. One that enabled us to spend our day doing what we love doing and somehow get paid for doing it. The big proviso with this whole idea is getting people to buy into your vision and help you realise it. Over the last week we’ve connected with so many dynamic individuals and the businesses they represent. It’s been amazing for us to encounter the support we have for our (little) vision. More amazing though is the generally positive attitude we’ve encountered towards life in SA, this despite the testing economic challenges we all face right now. I think this is because we’re generally a free nation and one that uses the space to enjoy that freedom. If its peace you find in a playful Vic Bay wall or in the multicultural melting pot of the Cool Runnings Rasta bar on the outskirts of a Knysna township be grateful you are a South African, we certainly are. |
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| The reason for our vision: Fun waves and good times. Me on a VicBay wall, John catching a pub lunch. |
Thursday 23 October
It’s 3am and I draw the short straw. Iain passes out in the passenger seat and we hit the road, me driving. Considering we only went to sleep at 12:30am it’s a gnarly prospect, but this trip has been like that. Getting up early to surf and meetings that spill over into the long hours of the night. Rule no 1, surf first. It’s this philosophy that is keeping the sleep deprived sense of humour in tact. That and the prospect of a dawnie at Vic Bay. Somehow we arrive at Vic Bay. It’s 2-3 ft clean and fun, a couple of guys out.
I take the small waterproof digital camera and put it in my suit. I have no idea what I’m going shoot but it seems like a good idea to take the camera for a spin. Vic Bay has had some bad press recently regarding localism... Today is nothing like that. In fact it’s the polar opposite. A guy paddles up to me and says “hey weren’t you in JBay recently for that big swell, my name is Barry.” He reaches out to shake my hand, and so it goes. Pretty soon Iain and I are trading waves and shooting the breeze with the crew. We meet Reghert and Genre Van Zyl - they’re all cool.
I take out the camera and position myself down the point to try capture some action. Vic Bay is really beautiful from the water. A pretty girl paddles past me and flashes a shaka. Her name is Suzie and she’s from Ireland. She’s giving it a good go. She paddles up to me and say’s (in a lovely Irish lilt) “you know I’d love a picture to send home to prove I can actually stand up”. I tell her to go for it and position myself accordingly for the next set. She delivers the goods and what you see here is the sequence of her getting to her feet and then riding past me with the amazing Vic Bay cottages in the background.
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Suzi, from Ireland...this ones for you!
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It strikes me how all the milestones in the progression of ones surfing are important. I’ve seen Iain have his fare share this trip and its cool to think that whether you are 7 or 70 you can still progress in your own way.
After our surf we pop in to visit the Aleph surf centre in George which Reghert and Genre have started. It’s designed to take kids from disadvantaged communities and turn them on to the stoke of surfing. Wow, think about the gift they’re giving. These are special people.
We drive up to JBay for an afternoon of meetings with Cheron, Pete Nicholson and Dave Allen. The surf is flat when we arrive. As we finish our meetings we see a little pulse is showing and snatch the opportunity for a sunset session. Its small and inconsistent but every now and then a little 3 footer reels down the fabled point. We trade waves with Mike Ginsberg, Wayne Monk and Dion Lategaan. They’re all ripping in their own totally unique ways. It’s a beautiful time of day to be in the water.
We end the day with casual drinks and dinner at Cheron’s house. Cheron is like a surrogate mom. She opens her home and takes us all in and feeds us until we roll out of our chairs onto the beanbags in front of her fireplace. We talk of many thing, but always close to the conversation in some way is surfing.
As the eyelids get heavy and it’s time to crash, the last though on my mind is “where will we surf tomorrow?”
John
Tuesday 21 October
What a day! Started with an early mission at Off-the-wall, a quick surf before work. John warned me about this "surf spot, that wasn't a surf spot.""What on earth is that supposed to mean?" I thought as we paddled out over the kelp beds and through the sewerage-smelling water.
I soon found out...the wave rears up out of nothing, a lurching left that sits up, breaks fast and spits as whole sections chase you down and herd you into the infamous rock at the end of the wave. Once I got the hang of it, it was pretty fun, until I met up with the rock at the end of the wave. Whoah there! Now I get it...almost a surf spot, but more like a haphazrd blend of things that kind-of make up a surf spot, but with a few things out of place.
Then it was non-stop meetings all day, turning people onto theBOMBsurf concept and the response was phenomenal. We met up with some really cool people, Tristan and Tarryn, Lisa, Greg, Dahria and Zane, Donovan (who smashed his nose in a head on collision with his board at melkbos while dropping in on his chick!) and Tim - such cool people!
Finally hooked up with legendary artist of Blue Mamba, Andy Mason (check his comic strip on Wavescape - it's rad!) for a quart at the Village Inn and then bro'd down with our brother - THE MAN Justin Polkey who penned this cool prose about a session he had out at Witsands with John on Sunday. Like I said, what a day.
"Today i surfed with an old friend and a large whale. It was a lot to take in, so much so that to get anywhere in this vastness i had to count every stroke and then make every stroke count. At one stage i lost focus and bearing and just for a moment sat on my board. The seconds hadnt become minutes and before i knew it i was out to sea. It was the towering dorsel of the whale not twenty stokes infront of me, and at least as high, that alerted me to my position. At first sight it was ore that gripped me and then reconing brought the trickery of fear. I was in a river headed out to sea and on the very brink of panic. I turned my board and counted my strokes. There between my friend and the whale. I made the moment about each moment i could not have made it about those to come. I would lie to say that i did not think the worst on occasion. It was heavy going and progress seemed slow. Just as soon as i had drifted out i found a traveled wave, it is likely too that the wave may have found me, i dug in hard and used everything i thought i had already spent. And there, today, between the whale and my friend i had the ride of my life. - a true story with no title." - Justin Polkey - Raconteur, photographer, poet.
Iain.
John and Andy talk story over a quart at the Village inn, Muizenburg.
Mon 20th Oct
Picture this: the Kom, 8-10ft, the sun is dropping rapidly and the swell is picking up. There's a gusty westerly bringing some chop and bumps to an already moody, freezing cold sea. The water is dark and the sets boom against the reef. We paddle out and join the only other 4 guys out. I'm way under gunned on my 6'6. Every set that rolls through is shifty, peaking in a different spot.I'm shitting myself.
Mickey Duffus paddles past: "Just take any one you want." he says grinning. Somehow I think he's taking the piss, until he paddles way too deep inside, drop into a bomb and charges across the face, kicking out a few seconds later as the lurching wall of darkness explodes onto the shelf.
Minutes pass...I dodge, scratch and skirt around the sets. Then it comes. A wide, massive, unbearable west set. It looms up, blocking out the setting sun. My world goes dark and I have about 10 seconds to contemplate the hiding I'm about to receive as I scratch wildly for the looming mountain of water, already bearing it's teeth as it grows and grows...until it slams down just meteres away. Thousands of tons of water rushing towards me as I try to dive as deep as I can but to no avail, as I'm thrashed around in the wildest, violent mass of heaving water I've ever experienced.
As I surface, I hear a cackling laugh and voice from the inside say, "Welcome to the Kom, now follow me to the inside, you'll never catch one sitting out here on the shoulder." I follow the maniac, and as I do I see him turn and start stroking earnestly for the horizon, panic grips me again, knowing this is just the price you pay to catch one out here.
Iain
Sun 19th 2008:
There's something to be said for being happily suprised when you least expect it...that's what happened when we arived at Mosselbay backpackers at 10pm last night to be greeted by an absolute cracker in a low cut top, a short skirt and a sweet smile who fussed over us and welcomed us in....thankyou Sarah!
12 hours and 600 kays later we were on Muizenburg beach with thousands of stoked surfers, young, old, big, small, of all varieties loving the beach and the waves that rolled in all day.
A fish braai, a Witsands session in the company of a pod of whales and you realise how blessed we are to live in this amazing country and enjoy these experinces daily.
John.
Sunday afternoon Kalk Bay fishbraai. mmmmmm.
Sat 18th 2008
Fun little session out at Nahoon Reef. Wind was up a bit, but some good 2-3ft rights running through. Andre scooped all the good ones...eish! Local knowledge always wins.
Drive trough to Plett was a mission, but got there and surfed the beachie at the Wedge. What a magic spot to surf while the sun goes down and turns the water pink.
Iain
Nahoon Reef, Andre, John & Iain out, 2-3ft and fun.
Plett wedge beachie, dusk surf.
Fri 17th 2008
Coming at you live from East London, theBOMBsurf crew have been on the road for the past 2 days. We scored a kiff little left bowl at Mdumbi, in the Trankei, then pushed on Coffee Bay where we hooked up with the Mayor of Coffee Bay, Dave Malherbe. This morning we surfed at Coffee bay and then pushed on down the coat to EL where got soem fun peaks at Easterns with Andre Malherbe and the local crew.
John |
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| Happily suprised.... |
| 19 October 2008, 14:29 |
There's something to be said for being happily suprised when you least expect it...that's what happened when we arived at Mosselbay backpackers at 10pm last night to be greeted by an absolute cracker in a low cut top, a short skirt and a sweet smile who fussed over us and welcomed us in....thankyou Sarah!
12 hours and 600 kays later we were on Muizenburg beach with thousands of stoked surfers, young, old, big, small, of all varieties loving the beach and the waves that rolled in all day.
A fish braai, a Witsands session in the company of a pod of whales and you realise how blessed we are to live in this amazing country and enjoy these experinces daily.
John.
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| Sunday afternoon Kalk Bay fishbraai. mmmmmm. |
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| Nahoon Reef |
| 18 October 2008, 14:24 |
Fun little session out at Nahoon Reef. Wind was up a bit, but some good 2-3ft rights running through. Andre scooped all the good ones...eish! Local knowledge always wins.
Drive trough to Plett was a mission, but got there and surfed the beachie at the Wedge. What a magic spot to surf while the sun goes down and turns the water pink.
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| Nahoon Reef, Andre, John & Iain out, 2-3ft and fun. |
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Plett wedge beachie, dusk surf. |
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| Live from East London |
| 17 October 2008, 14:21 |
| Coming at you live from East London, theBOMBsurf crew have been on the road for the past 2 days. We scored a kiff little left bowl at Mdumbi, in the Trankei, then pushed on Coffee Bay where we hooked up with the Mayor of Coffee Bay, Dave Malherbe. This morning we surfed at Coffee bay and then pushed on down the coat to EL where got soem fun peaks at Easterns with Andre Malherbe and the local crew. |
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