John McCarthy interviews Miles Masterson on his new book "Learn to Surf"
Miles, I just finished your book ‘How to Surf’. It might seem weird for a guy who has been surfing for 27 years to read a book with that title, but I was absolutely blown away. Firstly I love the way you write about the sea and the more spiritual side of surfing. Secondly I don’t think I’ve ever seen so much practical advice condensed so neatly into such an easily readable book. I don’t think there is a surfer around that wouldn’t benefit in some way from reading it. For a beginner though its an absolute gem. I always saw you as more of a ‘Fear and loathing in Las Vegas’ type of writer what motivated you to write a ‘how to’ book on surfing?
Thanks. I guess I always wanted to write a book and after a few false starts with some seriously bad fiction it seemed a natural for me as a writer and surfer to write about surfing, which is kinda Gonzo I guess. I looked at many of the other international how to surf books out there and realised that most of them are quite clinical and never really delved deeper than the technical aspects of surfing. I wanted to convey the emotional, spiritual and natural connection I feel toward the sport and ocean and to help people, really understand surfing and how it can improve your life (at least as much as possible through a book), rather than merely to just learn how to clamber to their feet and duckdive. We also aimed it beyond total novices, to add some value and make it something people would refer back to for years.
It’s clear through your writing that you have a much deeper connection with the ocean than the sport of surfing. You refer to surfing more than once as a way of life and a complete lifestyle that is far broader than the shallow crust of an industry. Also you say that as surfers we should consider ourselves custodians of the coast and the ocean. Have you always felt like this or is this something that has grown on you as you’ve grown older?
I was quite religious as a young grom, I read the Bible cover to cover a few times and went to the Anglican form of catechism, but probably at the same time I started getting serious about surfing, at about the age of 12 or 13, I started to get frustrated with the church. I wondered why they didn’t do anything about apartheid, how many apparently pious people were such sinning hypocrites and that they didn’t really seem to factor nature into the equation much and that no one really seemed to care about pollution. Being immersed in the beach and ocean made me hyper-aware that there was so much more to it than that, that surfing was more than just riding waves but actually tapped one into the energy of mother earth and the universe, and that something needed to be done to preserve the planet. Not that I am anti-religion per se (I know this is actually the reason many surfers are Christians) but ever since then I have maintained an interest in conservation and felt that surfing is a great spiritual pursuit rather than exclusively some superficial aqua jock competitive lark. Whilst working in the UK at Wavelength magazine, I joined Surfers Against Sewage and helped publicise their efforts, in Australia I volunteered at the Surfrider Foundation and I always try to do something, although these days it’s mostly writing about environmental issues such as ocean pollution, over-development, over-fishing and endangered marine species. But ja, it’s always been there. How can we use the ocean for fun and not give back? In my opinion SA surfers are actually super-slack about this and we could and should do way more, all of us. Together we could make a very powerful voice.
Stephen Bibb’s illustrations are superb. How did you manage to get him involved in the project and what was it like working with him?
The book needed an illustrator who was a surfer, or the drawings would never have worked. I knew Stephen from around here and there surfing J-Bay and that, and contacted him. He happened to be in Cape Town, was game and we never looked back. It was great working with him, he feels the same way I do about surfing and is a really patient, warm human being so it was actually a pleasure. Even when the screw tightened right at the end and we had a few hours to complete his final drawings and his computer crashed, he was a bit frazzled, but still super-mellow. Thanks Stephen!
What was the initial print run of the book?
I think 5000 copies. I don’t think there are that many beginner surfers in South Africa but the whole point is to convert the masses out there. Blame me when your spot gets crowded with kooks I guess, although hopefully if they read the section on localism and etiquette they will know their place in the greater scheme of things!
Where can people buy it and how much does it cost?
it’s available at most independent stationers, Exclusive books, that kind of thing. If you can’t find a copy please email me at mastersonmedia@vodamail.co.za and we’ll make a plan to get one to you. The RRP is R140, nice and affordable.
On the cover you say that it contains all that you need to know about surfing in SA. Having read it I’d agree, but I think it has relevance beyond the South African market have you had any thoughts about distributing it internationally?
That’s up to Penguin, the publisher. We specifically made it relevant to SA because that had never been done before. But who knows, if things go well, we could go global. Take over the world, mwahaha.
Would you ever consider making a digital version that is downloadable?
Again that’s up to Penguin. We have talked about things like that but for now we are going to concentrate on the print version. I think it is best because of the compact pocket size nature of the book you can take it to the beach with you and refer to it between sessions. Or at least that’s the idea.
Do you plan to promote the book at all, by doing talks anywhere or special sessions where people who’ve read it can ask you more questions? If not in person, maybe a website/email or blog that people can communicate with you on?
Nothing planned at the moment as being a niche subject the publishers have extended themselves as far as budget for that kind of thing allows. There are some plans to do some press/radio interviews and in-store promotions and competitions around some major surf events though, and people are welcome to email me on mastersonmedia@vodamail.co.za for more info, but I think/hope as you say, everything is in the book.
What is your next project, do you have anything else in your sights that you might like to tell us about?
That’s all top secret ha ha. Nah, I’ve pitched a few book ideas to publishers but nothing has stuck yet. To be honest writing a book is a major mission and I won’t be retiring any time soon on the proceeds, so I might wait a while before I tackle something like this again. Otherwise just hacking away at freelance writing and editing and trying to catch a few waves.
Finally, every time you come up to Durban the surf seems to be cooking, so when’s your next trip?
Ha ha. Swings and roundabouts I guess. For many many years I got skunked coming to Durban, never really scored in my competitive surfing years when I came up for contests, then when I spent time there in the navy, and neither really in my regular trips there when I started to worked for blunt magazine and Atoll. Then a few years back something clicked and I began to get waves every time I came up there. Last year I came up for the Quik contest and scored good Ansteys, and then acting on a tip from a local, bailed Dirtbin and spent a week on the South Coast surfing some of the best waves of my life at a semi-secret spot. Like nature and surfing everything is cyclical I guess. I haven’t found my way up there this year though, as I’m saving to go to Indonesia in July, it’s been a while. I’ve probably jinxed myself now and I’ll probably get skunked next time I come to Durbs though, but it’s all good because the water is nice and warm, which is a treat for a Capetonian, even when it is small onshore. You can keep the bluebottles though.
Thanks Miles and best wishes with the book.
Thanks John, thanks for the support.
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4 Comments so far:
Mark on 1 June 2009
Hey dude,
Book and illustrations sound epic and good to see stuff like this coming out on the shelves...got one question, it says it covers pretty much all of surfing which is cool...but to what level? Is this book based only at beginners or right throught o advanced riders?
As an example im at an itermediate level and no pro for sure..probably quite the kook.... but would dig to see some thing with good illustrations on developing style, pushing to the next limit, advancing in moves like different types of airs etc...
shot
Mark
Miles on 1 June 2009
hey Mark, thanks yeah the book isn't just for total beginners and does cover everything right up to the more advanced turns and tricks like tailslides, airs, floaters and tube riding etc, although not in quite as much detail as the more elementary moves such as bottom turns, re-entries and cutbacks. The reason for that is by the time you've got the basics mastered I don't feel you need a detailed breakdown of the more technical stuff (which is also part of the challenge and fun to figure out on your own), so it is more just advice and tips based there, rather than full on step by steps. Throughout the book though I refer to developing a clean, nice to watch style (which is also part of good surfing technique), as to me this is one of the most important aspects of good surfing...
julian on 1 June 2009
Hey Miles... Shot on becoming published.Well Done man!!!
Just two question. You make mention of two rather contradictory terms, the lifestyle and the sport of surfing...... so which one is it?
I can never understand why people surf for the spiritual experience, i mean hussling and drop-ins don't really add up to spiritualism or the christian way of life.
And surfing is in the physical universe, using a wave( energy) and water (matter)
I was under the impression that spiritualism had to do with a universe devoid of materialism ( matter, energy, space and time) and or contacting and inter-acting with the dead.
Your views?
best of luck with the book. Hope the publishers give you a second print.
Miles on 4 June 2009
Hey Julian, yeah sure I hear you the average city bound surf is hardly a spiritual experience. But what about surfing glassy backlit tubes with just a few good mates at sunset at some picturesque pastoral secret spot, birds calling and dolphins splashing in the water? Doesn't that make you feel good and connected to something greater? Doesn't the mere act of riding a wave, or even just being in the ocean make you feel better and lift your spirit? That's what I'm talking about, not some dictionary definition of the word. Surfing as religion, the church of the open sky yada yada yad blurg
Die Baai
29 May 2009, 11:13
One of my closest surfing buddies, Brendan, works 3 days a week in Richard's Bay. He keeps telling me these stories about getting epic waves in die Baai - but then again this is from a guy who regularly sends a few thousand volts through his brain while working up in the factories in RB. So yesterday I decided to humour him and go check it out. I wanted to come up to Zuluand and check the vibe out anyway. So after hitting an epic point break surf just north of Durban yesterday afternoon, I arrived in die Baai at dusk. Now my mate Brendan also paddles (he and I did the Duzi one year - a hangover from my SA Paddler days!) and so we pulled into the Zululand Kayak Club just as the guys were finishing the weekly dice around the canal. Seems a lot of the guys surf too, because when I showed them a copy of theBOMBsurf, they were amped and started telling us these surfing war stories from around the area. So we chatted, braaied, had a few dops and as one thing led to another we ended up playing coinage for Milk Stout down downs - gotta love these ous! Hounourable mentions must go to Andrew, Stretch, Mike, Mike, Denzil and Brendan. Shot ous...for the babelaas.
So with a raging hangover, Brendan and I hit the water this morning. We met up with local legend of 360 surf store, Reinhardt du toit, BOMBsurf subscriber Dennis and this other dude, Carl, who had just worked a 12 hour straight night shift and hit the beach straight from the factory! Alkantstrand wasn't exactly firing, the wind was up early and it was a bit lumpy - but when the sets came through - they came through properly, and the boys got some steep drops down. The wave sends you hurtling initially towards the concrete dolices and then swings out and back across the sand bar 45 degres to the beach - it's weird, but flippin fun and all the boys got some siek waves.
The it was a quick hook up with local RB Surfriders main man, Malcolm and John from www.surfalliance.co.za (check out his site - it's really cool) and now it's back to the Dirtbin for Saturday and SA Champs at St. Mikes on Sunday.
Check you on the beach or in the water!
Iain
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Skollie on 29 May 2009
Nice to see the Bomb checking out Alkantstrand Skollies territory
Iain on 29 May 2009
Hey Skollie, where were you bru? It was a beautiful morning and only 4 of us out. I've heard it can get a bit crowded on the weekend, but for a Friday morning I was lank surprised.
Kwazzi on 31 May 2009
Nice Wollins interview. That dude gave me stitches to the back of me skull for getting in his way at New Pier. Suppose the good book does say that God can turn the most wayward of sinners. Wish the best for the guy. Adios!
Wok and Kolesky almost get mugged at the Sentinal
28 May 2009, 11:42
Photographer Craig Kolesky writes:
"This morning I went to shoot the guys out at Dungeons. When I first got to the Sentinal parking lot there were 4 dodgy guys sitting at the top of the stairs that were up to no good, I decided to wait for Wok to join me, when he arrived I told him about the guys but I think he thought nothing of it. I felt better having some one with me as I had all my gear with me. After shooting for an hour we heard some guys shouting on the path below us. The wind had then swung from an offshore to an onshore so we decided to pack up. As we got onto the trail the guys emerged out of nowhere on the spot we were shooting from and a second bunch on the path below us, that when I knew something was wrong, I told Wok to move faster but I think he was not sure what was actually going on. After about 50m we looked back ad the 2 groups had split up and looked like they were trying to beat us to the bottom surrounding us. I think we are lucky that we were slightly ahead of them and managed to get to my car safely, I think Wok had then realized what was going on.
WOK - “Craig and myself were cruising up the Sentinal, you have to go through a township to get there which was pretty sketchy, I never thought anything of it being from Durban and all but Craig had his eyes open. The waves were about 15ft and really clean and looked like Frank was owning it out there. On our way down the mountain we were starting to get surrounded by locals, it was pretty scary, we flew down the mountain to get to the car and I got to tell that tail.”
One of the images Kolesky managed to snap off before he and Wok were tempted to re-distribute the camera equipment to the Hout Bay township community.
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Who is the best surf photographer of them all?
25 May 2009, 21:28
I spend a lot of time looking at both local and international surfing publications. One thing I've noticed lately is the amazing quality of work coming out of our local surf photographers. This is not just in theBOMB, but also in Zag and ASR. There really are world class photographers based right here in SA. My question to you guys is who is SA's best surf photographer in SA right now and why?
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James R on 26 May 2009
Hard to pick a top one as I think their work varies from issue to issue in all the SA surf mags, but my top choices:
Van Lennep (old school genius),
Van Gysen (the dude is fearless),
Cestari (I didn't know him until theBOMBsurf, but geez this dude gets some mean shots),
Kolesky (pretty much always in the right place at the right time)
then it's a 3 way tie between Tuck, Ewing and Wulf.
Purple rocket on 26 May 2009
New school, unearthed talent is the way forward: Mark Gardner in Durban is always swimming when it's maxing, Ant Fox in CT is the same. Richimages (not sure if this is a company or a person) has great shots and I really dig the slideshows from Garth Robinson on theBOMB
Iain on 26 May 2009
Hey Purple,
Richimages is Richard Hambloch, a Durban based photographer, videographer and surfer. Check out some of his videos on the videos page too.
richimages on 26 May 2009
Hey John, great observations. Again the name AVG -(cold ball busting water shooter who used to be an analog man but who has now gone digital) comes to the fore again as does Chris Van Lennep and lets not forget Lance Slabbert. I see a common thread here, they all cut their teeth on film! Respect!
Richard on 26 May 2009
I would have to agree with Chris Van Lennep and Lance Slabbert as they are legends in SA surf photography but neither of them shoot anymore. Of the current guys shooting i would say AVG and Greg Ewing.
Cestari on 27 May 2009
To be the best one would have to excel at every aspect that is surf photography, a task I don't see a single one of us doing at the moment.
Having said that, Van is still the Man. Wulff, Slabbert, AVG, Ewing, Tuck all set the level for us newbies.
Just keep shooting and raising the bar.
Redman G on 27 May 2009
AVG, wulff, ponzone,ewing,johnson
warren loom on 27 May 2009
I cant comment on all the names above, but I would like to use this platform to say how amazed I am at how far Kelly Castari's work has come in a reasonably short period of time. Keep it up Boet!
milo on 29 May 2009
what about Richard Johnson? he's cracking out some epic images
dan on 1 June 2009
julie de vries
Hidden in plain site
25 May 2009, 09:21
This weekend saw the customary exodus from the city to the KZN coast with all the workers trying to catch up on the perfection of the early weeks offering. The problem though was that a nasty east blew VERY hard on Thurs and managed to change the sandbanks on a lot of the points. That and the combined leftover easterly swell made the points on the SCoast very wobbly. I stopped at one of my usual haunts and just couldn't face the prospect of battling with 20 other guys for a wonky one manouvre closeout on the point. I had a little look around and lo and behold but about 1.5kms (in view of the main point) there was a reeling barreling 3' left with no one out. i couldn't believe it. I hit it hard for an hour and a half alone while watching the guys on the point dropping in on each other, husseling and paddling around each other. I was so stoked. The next day I took two mates back there with me to try get it again. it wasn't quite as perfect as it had been the day before but there were fun waves. Then this morning I surfed The New Pier. It was a playful peeling 2-3' with one other guy out. What's the point of this story? Well I guess if you are committed and you keep your eyes open sooner or later you will get lucky, be it at a secluded little spot down the coast or right in the middle of town. You just have to keep the faith and surf first.
John
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Spirit of the Great Heart
20 May 2009, 19:20
This blog entry has nothing to do with surfing. But it has everything to do with how blessed we are to live in Africa. I've spent the last 5 days out in the bushveld, something I try to do at least once a year with my wife, as both of us are avid game and bird spotters. There are several reasons why this is not only a good holiday to take to get away from the city but also a pilgrimage that every South African should do as often as time and finances allow. Here's just 3 very humble observations:
Firstly, there is something deeply spiritual about being in the bush. Regardless of your spiritual/religious affiliation - the bush bring you into the "now" like nothing else can. Anyone who's read Tolle will know what I mean! Life and death in nature is an everyday occurrence and when it plays out in front of you, it brings you back to the "now" very sharply.
Secondly, sit out in the bush, turn your engine off and listen. Your ears will ache from the silence. And you will start to crave it more and more, the longer you spend away from fabricated violence of city noise.
Finally, sit around in your camper chair long after the last few coals have died down on the campfire and look at the brilliance of the night sky, away from the pollution and bright lights of the city. The African starscape will blow your mind and reduce your ego to the very paltry size that it is in relation to the cosmic enormity of the greater universe.
Sometime I wonder how we manage to get so caught up in our self important little lives, so far away from the reality of the greater life-force around us. When you next get a chance to go to the bush - take it! You'll be stoked you did. There is no other place on earth as diversely beautiful, as brutal and as fascinating as the African bushveld.
My wife took this photo of a wild dog (Lycaon pictus) yesterday morning, as we drove through their pack in the middle of a hunt. According to Apps's Field guide to behaviour of South African mammals, the lead wild dog will singlemindedly choose and run down it's prey even if it means running the pack after it for hours. The lead dog and the senior dogs in the pack will bite chunks out of the exhausted prey and eventually disembowel it so that it bleeds to death. "Once a chase starts the prey has only one to three chances in ten of escaping the wild dogs' relentless pursuit, compared to the six to eight in ten chance of evading a lion attack" (Apps, 2000). Now that's brutal.
Iain.
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Moot on 27 May 2009
There is no place like the bush to get back to our roots, and I haven't been there enough lately. This has inspired another trip to be planned...
Sharks from the air
18 May 2009, 19:39
Today started out pretty well with a decent groundswell on the KZN S Coast. Me and 3 other guys got really lucky on one of the points as a groomed south swell made landfall. Apart from a quick pop into the printers to check our new 100% environmentally friendly process on the printing of the cover section of our mag (more about that later but we're so stoked we've figured it out!) it was a lazy day. So when an old friend said he had a Zlin aerobatic plane at his disposal and would I like a ride I jumped at the chance. I specifically asked him to fly over a couple of the North Coast spots so I could check the sand setup from the air. Pretty soon we were over peace cottage and then on up to Ballito. Just north of Ballito at Salt Rock my friend casually said to me 'check that big shark just behind backline' and proceeded to turn the plane on its wing and give me a better view. Sure enough there was about a 4m shark swimming slowly north just behind backline. It should be noted this is a backline I frequent fairly regularly. Just then he started doing his areobatic routine. For those of you who've never done aerobatics before let me tell you its gnarly. You are pulling 4 g's in some of the turns. Anyway this went on for a while while I tried to get the images of the shark out of my mind as the horizon kept slipping this way and that. When we got back to the airport I felt a little shaky and green behind the gills. Not sure how much was from the shark or the rolls and loops we were doing. One thing is for sure though. We do have a lot of sharks on our coastline!
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Henk on 19 May 2009
100% Environmentally friendly cover? Sounds too good to be true. Good work guys if you have figured it out, but I reckon you are pulling a couple of okes leg-ropes with this one. I seriously doubt there is an environmentally friendly way for you to mass produce a magazine. More like a 35% - 40% environmentally friendly process, let's be honest.
warren loom on 19 May 2009
hey henk, I think they just meant the cover. not the whole magazine. Let them state there case first and then if still not convinced throw the snotty remarks. Peace!
Henk on 19 May 2009
Howzit Warren, cover or entire magazine, makes no difference they are still printing hundreds/thousands of copies of them, and the printing press does not run on bio-fuel, it gets powered by electricity which is not eco-friendly. Not to mention the extra varnish/glossy part the cover gets. Last I checked varnish is toxic. That's only two steps of the printing process, there are a few more that are also near impossible to be 100% eco-friendly. Like I said there is no way it gets printed in a 100% environmentally friendly process, let's be truthful and call it as it is. 35% - 40%, even that will be a heavy claim. Peace!
warren loom on 19 May 2009
Hey Henk. Fair enough. Lets see. Keep well.
Henk on 19 May 2009
Shot Warren, you keep well too bru...
John Mc on 19 May 2009
Henk you are a man after my own heart and I'm so glad you raised this as you are quite correct printing generally is a very toxic and environmentally unfriendly process. True also that the whole magazine is not 100% eco-friendly. That said I challenge you to find a more environmenatlly responsible magazine being produced in SA at the moment. Our mission with theBOMBsurf is to be as environmentally responsible as we can, we see this as a process, not an overnight solution but we're pushing hard. Check this out, we're replacing our UV varnish cover with an Qquias (spelling) varnish which as I understand it is a water based film and completely NON TOXIC. Our cover and text stock is from Sappi tripple green paper (60% of this is from recycled sugar cane fibre, chlorine free bleach and wood fibre) the other 40 from certified afforestation areas. The bag we deliver the mag in (plastic) is 100% recycled and sponsored by Ocean Minded. Because you cannot buy the mag at the newsstand and is only available to subscribers we only print exactly what we need which means zero wasteage (most other consumer titles budget to waste between 30-40% of what they print just to secure their distribution. Also the entire mag is available digitally for free for anyone to read http://www.thebombsurf.com/pages/154/thebombsurf-issue-2-autumn-2009. This means that as a consumer if you'd prefer not to receive the printed product you can still consume the content online. As I said if you can help us t do better than this we'd be stoked. Cheers
John
warren loom on 20 May 2009
Hey John. Thanks for the feedback. You guys are doing great work. (On all fronts.) As we all know, every bit helps.Later!
Storm downgrades, damn!
14 May 2009, 12:28
The beauty and beastliness of the internet is the excitement and dissapointment of tracking impending swells and I suppose once again proves the old adage that untill you see it you don't really know for sure.
This storm we've been monitoring is a case in point. Yesterday it was looking incredible, just a beast of a storm that basically took up the whole indian Ocean. Today it seems to have lost 40% of its juice..aaah! There will still be waves of sorts but nothing like what it was showing yesterday. So We leave the big boards gathering dust for now, regear our expectations and overall look for something a lot more modest. At least there will be something to ride!
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Waterspout
14 May 2009, 08:01
How freaky is this...the Watersprout below was photographed rnear Bitung, in Indonesia's north Sulawesi province on May 12, 2009. A second waterspout can be seen in the background. Water spouts appear when thunderstorm clouds create pockets of low pressure. A column of water is then sucked up towards the base of the cloud.
They are fairly common in tropical waters and can pose a threat to small boats out at sea, but they usually weaken and vanish when they come nearer to shore. Technically A waterspout is an intense columnar vortex that occurs over a body of water and is connected to a cumuliform cloud. In the common form, it is a nonsupercell tornado over water, and brings the water upward. It is weaker than most of its land counterparts
Like tornadoes, waterspouts often form in families. Ships at sea have reported as many as thirty in one day and as many as nine have been seen forming in a 90-minute period under the same cloud line.
Barry Anderson saw this on the blog this morning and mailed us: "I saw your picture of the waterspout on the blog, the one from Indo. It reminded me of a photo my boet (Lee Andersson) took a year or so ago whilst working in the Gulf of Mexico"
Cheers, Barry.
Is that an oil rig? Gives a chilling sense of the scale of these waterspouts. Image courtesy Lee Anderson.
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There is a big one coming...
13 May 2009, 14:23
Holy cow, i just got off the phone to Spike and next week is gonna be hectic. Basically there is a storm brewing in the Indian Ocean that covers the whole ocean from the Antarctic to SA. This stage of a storm's analysis always drives me round the bend because you're trying to figure out whats gonna happen. They always tend to downgrade a bit, but whatever the case there are going to be waves next week from the West Coast to Moz. Reunion will light up on Wed and by Sat G-Land in Indo will be off its head... lot of thoughts flying through my mind right now. We've just finished the mag, well its in print. Iain and i are taking a break for a few days and the big question is where to go surfing next week. Sure you know all the main spots will be cranking, but swells like this come along only a handful of a times a year if that so its also a good opportunity to check out those lesser known spots. Decisions decisions!
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Slow motion underwater footage
11 May 2009, 15:16
Check out this trippy, super slow motion footage by Aussie videographer Bali Strickland of Dylan Longbottom in a monster barrel. This is something special. Thanks to Cammo, for the link ;)
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Kelly on 11 May 2009
BBC Earth are claiming "revealing for the first time ever the vortices caused by big waves".
If they are referring to a first time ever filming them on super slow motion HD then yes, if they are referring to capturing them on any form of film for the first time ever BullSh1t. I shot those things at Backdoor.
Deadline madness
11 May 2009, 06:50
It's been tought getting this latest issue of theBOMBsurf finished, but we're pretty much there! At the last moment we added an extra 16 pages to the mix, taking the total size of the mag to 136 pages. We landed some supremo images and we worked tirelessly to create an absolutely insane publication. I'd like to tell you more....but that would spoil the suprize. All I'm going to say is that it's by far our best publication yet, and it'll take you a good few hours of solid reading, maybe even days to devour this one. But I promise you, you'll be rivetted, entertained and informed. We are printing the publication this week and we will start to deliver the mag, the week after that, so watch your mailbox towards the end of May/beginning of June....and clear a space on that coffee table of yours, 'cos you're gonna need it.
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Mark Becker on 14 May 2009
Looking forward to the publication, as we have had some awesome sessions with all the cyclones and fronts hitting Dubans New Pier and North Beach, plus all the Compo's that have been on has to account for some decent photographs. I will be watching my mailbox as this is one magazine, that is so well put together and excellent quality. Thanks for the hard work guys, space has been cleared and ready for the king size mag.
Shane Thorne interview
8 May 2009, 18:41
If you haven't read this week's "Surfers - A Common Thread" interview by Wade Howard, go read it now. Wade talks to Shane Thorne about his challenges with drugs, his professional surfing career, managing his relationship with his wife and son and how he found a new life in turning to God. It is really interesting to see the support Shane recieved from the surf industry and also to hear how other people tried to lure him back to the dark side. To read this interview click here. Well done Shane for being so honest and open about your life.
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Phil (North Beach) on 8 May 2009
Hats off to you Shane, you inspire many people not only with your surfing but how you live your life every day ! many thanks
julian on 9 May 2009
Amoungst all the problems that life can throw at you, drug addiction must be one of the worst. It affects so many people in a negative, destructive way. If there is a hell, I expect it to be full of drug manufacturers and dealers.
Well done Shane, I hope your story helps to keep others away from the dark side.
If you know of someone who has a drug problem, or need more information on street drugs, or need to speak to someone about drugs, go check out this site: www.stopaddiction.co.za
Interview with Twig after winning Chile
7 May 2009, 09:39
Hey Twig you mullett!
One moment you are chugging beers at the SA Surfing Awards and the next you pop up in Chile and win the event. Well done!
What was the event and what did you win?
Quik Chile Ceremonial, it's been going for a few years but this is the first time they invited internationals. I won R50 000-00!!
Was it tow or paddle?
Paddle, a real core underground event at a known big wave spot in Chile, basically a huge sand point break.
Who did you have to beat?
A bunch of really good local guys, a few Brazilians, Americans, Hawaiians and Peruvians.
What were the conditions like?
It was crazy, 12-15ft, windy and really heavy....It was not an easy day at the office.
Can you tell us what the loose ‘tour’ of big wave events now comprises for both tow and paddle?
It's Dungeons, Mavericks, Wiamea, Chile and Jaws but it's growing all the time with smaller events like this at legitimate big wave venues that are not as famous as the "name" breaks. It was an awesome event, well organised and supported.
Did you take boards from here or get them there?
I used a Baron 8'6" that I borrowed from Ryan Butcher, I was a little under gunned but it went unreal.
Well done bru, speak soon.
Thanks,
Twig.
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baby on 15 May 2009
what a winner. you cant hold backa steam train infull motion
twig rocks
:)
Barry Wolins hit the streets
7 May 2009, 09:23
Interesting article in the Natal papers this morning. I thought I recognised that guy on the way to work!! Badger this one is especially for you - I really hope you don't read the newspaper too.More original blog entries coming at ya shortly, there's just the small issue of getting theBOMBsurf into print this week and since we added another 16 pages to the new mag, we've been so crazy. Enjoy...
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5 Comments so far:
warren loom on 7 May 2009
Barry you're such a biscuit! At least no can say you're predictable! Well done Boet! With everything that is going on in our beautiful country it so refreshing to see someone doing something like this!
Badger on 7 May 2009
Nice one chaps, I really enjoyed that article, especially the tongue in cheek reference to me reading the paper. That's good quality humour right there.....
Iain on 7 May 2009
Thanks Badger, thought you might enjoy that ;)
julian on 8 May 2009
Well done!!!! Proving to all the critics that Durban boys do have a sense of humour.
I particularly enjoyed the " but blessed" caption, I think that makes it.
Also the " i hope some of the money will end up in the hands of the needy" chirp in the article had me laughing.... Seriously, don't you durban okes know about inflation.... R2 can't even buy a loose ciggie!!
Matt Mulligan on 11 May 2009
Nice Job Barry, but they'll lock you up in Carolina if you try to pull this stunt there!
How were the waves? Huge Bru.
5 May 2009, 13:06
This is definitely the best number plate I've ever seen! This classic submission came from Herman Pretorius, via Siegmund Thetard, who writes: " Obviously a surfer’s car (jammy) and obviously with reference to the surf on any particular day.
How were the waves?"........
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Badger on 6 May 2009
I realise that there has recently been some sort of an alliance formed between thebombsurf and Seth Rotherham's blog - 2Oceansvibe, but there's no point in both posting the same entries. I'm not sure who put it up first but I enjoy reading both blogs and would dig to see both staying original. Either way, superb number plate. Use it don't use it.....
Groms ripping at OPJ
3 May 2009, 10:16
The crazy standard of JNR surfing has really been brought home to me at the Oakley Pro JNR this weekend. The contestants have been blessed with some seriously good waves and the result has been some exceptional surfing. Stand outs include Casey Grant, Sean Joubert, Brendon Gibbens and Chad du Toit. These guys feel nothing to take off at the start of their ride and boost a crazy air before going to work on the rest of the section. It's a whole different approach to what we had when I was a kid, where generally you held back in contests and were more conservative. Not these guys if anything they surf better in the contest than they do free surfing. The result is electrifying to watch. Flip if I was surfing for a trip to Bali and US$10 000 I might also try a few tricks!
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The stolen session Oakley Pro JNR Day 2
2 May 2009, 10:50
So I'm siting in the tower at the Oakley Pro JNR and the surf is COOKING! I can't believe how lucky these groms are to be surfing waves like this. For a change I wish I could be in the contest. At least I got the dawnie in. Knowing that the surf was going to be cooking I got up early to try and beat the tide of groms into the lineup. Pete Nicholson, Chappy and I surfed for about half an hour in cooking 6' waves before we were joined by John Bromley, Emile Zoetmulder and Greg Emslie. Pete, Chappy and Greg were ripping. We all knew it would be one of those stolen sessions and that we'd be forced to watch the rest of the day. We were frothing paddling back hard after each wave, determined to drink our fill before the contest started. I knew they couldn't start the contest without Greg so we were safe for a while. So as the sun inched up over the horizon and the sets poured through groomed by a fresh landbreeze we surfed as hard as we could. Somehow the knowledge that we couldn't surf all day made the session that much sweeter. Well that's what I'm telling myself now as I have to watch the laaites ripping perfect waves...
Pete Nicholson, early morning railwork. Image courtesy Kolesky/SanDisk.
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Oakley Pro Junior day 1
1 May 2009, 09:49
"If you guys are here to wank around, you might as well go home" - bellows Gigs Cilliers, guest speaker at the opening speech of the Oakley Pro Junior function, held at the Port Alfred Ski Boat Club. Strong words, but the Groms needed to hear it. And hear it they did. Gigs gave a passionate speech about the type of character it takes to win the OPJ Global event. Considering Dusty Payne, Owen Wright and Jadson Andre are the kind of surfers our Saffa groms will compete in when the winners go through to the Global finals in Keramas in October. "I want to see one of you guys win it" Gigs continues, "but you need to understand how to win". These words were re-iterated by Head Judge Colin Nel, who asked the Groms right then and there if any of the groms actually knew the judging criteria. Not single one of the surfers put their hands up. The Oakley Pro Junior is all business - and I think the groms realised that. So far the Oakley team, led by Greg Emslie look to have organise a cracker of an event...and sitting in the contest tower as I write this, the first few heats are underway, the groms seem to have taken Gigs's words to heart - they're surfing their hearts out and pushing it as hard as they can
The groms on their way out to practice last night before the big event.
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julian on 1 May 2009
the local newspaper reports on a few locals being "piss off" about this contest being run in P.A. How about a story concerning their views, so we can decide who's "here to wank around" ?
Iain on 3 May 2009
Having been here for the last 4 days and chatting to various members of the public, it seems on the whole most people are stoked to have Oakley bring the contest here, considering the revenue it brings to Port Alfred. Also, chatting to some of the Kowie Boardriders Club members, apparently the majority of the Club is in favour of the contest and helped to organise the contest. Oakley were at pains to thanks the surfing public of PA throughout the comp too, so they do not take these decisions for granted. We free surfed before and after the contest every day and scored cooking waves - the groms generally gave the older guys and locals waves in these sessions. There will always be some people unhappy to have contests at their local beach, and it's totally understandable. Thankfully there are organisations like the KBC to regulate how many and how often contests are held at the surf spots in an area.
Click here to nominate your own BMT performer of the week.
This morning I went for my customary surf before work at North Beach as I do when we're in DBN. There is something about being able to surf for an hour and a half in boardies, cruise past your favorite coffee shop and still make it to your desk by 7:45am that makes the summers here amazing. Anyway what was really interesting was that out of the 6 surfers trading waves in the North Beach bowl o... <more>
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