That warms my heart :) Little tnihgs to us can really be HUGE tnihgs to others!@Angie Hey Angie!! Love Drop #2 in the house! Haha sorry to hear about the flu going around your place but we hope you're better now :) Thanks for popping in! see you in the forums?
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one you ride montuains of frozen water the other you ride montuains of moving water. BTW there are no sharks on the frozen montuains
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Alex Gray once again getting the job done at his beloved Backdoor.
Carissa Moore doesn't live on the North Shore but visits often enough to have her spot in the lineup.
Not every photo from a session is great but the average ones can be artsyfied.
Another not so great but kinda interesting, kinda cool, a little different photograph from an otherwise average day.
When the skies cloud over the waves don't stop so you work with it.
Hailing from the Hawaiian Moniz dynesty, young Seth is making a name for himself.
Blowouts are cool for the surfer not for the photo, Nils Schweizer has his fun in the sun.
Slow season, good Off The Wall day, six photogs getting one shot, there were a dozen others in the lineup who didn't.
Sometimes board art is just that, art. Sometimes there are hidden messages, I think.
A bumpy wave face can provide an entertaining wipeout.
There is Pipe, Backdoor and then Backdoor lefts.
A view that never grows old until it smashes you in the face.
Rainbows make for pretty colored lineups.
It has been small and windy for some time now but a swell is on the horizon to cap the year off on New Years eve.
Mele Kalikimaka, Merry Christmas, Ho Ho Ho.
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Posted by Daiana on the 22/02/2012 12:45
, I think some of your own ideas are rlaley good, and it seems to me that you know exactly how to make it better. Advanced sync options sound good, as does a new sequencer. Does the new sequencer mean that layering effects within Glitch will soon be a possibility? That's something I'd like to see, and also, if that's possible, a signal chain would be convenient, to control which effects are processed first. I hope I made that understandable. ;) Also, if you like the signal chain idea, it'd be neat if it could be automated.
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Hawaii Dispatch 6
22/12/2011
The quality of surf is proportionate to the bicycle numbers.
Danny Fuller burns some poor chap as everyone is hungry to top up their winter quota.
Alex Gray does not like crowds so he patiently waits for the rare Backdoor gem amongst the NW swell direction.
Mark Healey fights the crowds by sitting the deepest. He made it out.
A common site, one gets burnt when gets glory.
Deck chairs, girls and solid Pipe. A perfect beach day.
Soli Bailey full stretch before hard yard dash.
Morning Glory.
Steven Sawyer has traded the cold water rights of JBay for the warm water lefts of Pipe.
Chad du Toit was hard at work before bouncing off the reef on the bigger Pipe day.
Roy Powers may not be on tour anymore but do you think he cares when he is at home?
Kekoa Bacalso reciting Turtles line "when the wave break here, don't be dere".
The funky little wipeout that sent Chad du Toit to the couch and beer sidelines.
Chads mangled knee and smashed lip, all part of paying your dues.
Some injuries are unfortunately more severe, this however was a precaution as the guy smashed his head.
A stark reminder of the realities of surfing, Hawaii's heros will forever live on.
Sunny Garcia doesn't live in Hawaii anymore but he is still a force at Pipe.
While Pipe fired so did Sunset, Twig was out there somewhere.
Victorias Secret, bringing class to Hawaii.
Reward for a hard days work from where you would rather be.
Got something to say? Then leave a comment!
Posted by francois on the 27/12/2011 14:43
Hope his attitude is a bit better at Pipe than it is in Jbay cos back home it sucks.
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"i've been getting some pressure from various people and/or websites to write something, sorta like an official statement concerning my exit from the world tour. my dismount. my pirouette. 'an opportunity level with your fans.' that's what they tell me. people wanna know whats goin on. be up to date. i can understand that. i like knowing whats going on. i like being up to date.
one thing to remember is that i have a heart and i have bones and muscle and skin and eyes and teeth. i have emotions. sometimes i act according to emotions. sometimes i think and make a conscious decision. i usually do that. in fact i usually think too much. sorta neurotic. i make mistakes, and i deal with them. i have fears and i have anxiety and i have insecurities and i have vices which i often give in to. social situations enhance all of these qualities. i could probably use some discipline, and lots of things bum me out, but generally i'm happy, and i enjoy making other people happy. sometimes all it takes is a smile. sometimes it takes a lot more than that. i try to be honest. especially with myself. i know that i'm fortunate. i'm sitting here and i have a pulse and i can breath and i hear birds outside and the buzz of the freeway and the suns about to set and it's a friday. that's fortune. i also know that i'm fortunate in many other ways. three brands support me and enable me to surf every day and travel and eat and have a house to live in. in return i represent their company in a positive way. i feel like i do a decent job. but that's obviously up for debate. surfing is my passion in life. i always think about how lucky we are that there's even an ocean, and its not too hot or too turbulent and it's not made of acid that burns our skin off. and how lucky is it that the land tapers into the ocean in just the right way so that when lumps of energy approach from a thousand miles away they gently rise up and crash at just the perfect speed so that we can wave our little arms and match their speed and hang at the crest weightless for just a second before sliding down the face. free to ride it in any way you please. and there's not just one of them. there's tons of them. they keep coming. all different sizes shapes and speeds. everyday they're different. endless joy.
there are of course a number of things that get in the way of feeling this joy: crowds, twitter impostors, eggy locals, eggy surf bloggers, overzealous surf photographers, chris mauro and rip curl contests, just to name a few. that was sort of a joke, but not really, and besides, surfing isn't just about joy. it's also a sport. an industry. and we must not mix business with pleasure. by accepting endorsements i assume a certain responsibility. some think that responsibility is to compete. to put on a jersey and crush my opponent. despite a flimsy one dimensional criteria and an inconsistent playing field that causes the end result to rarely come down to performance alone. maybe that's the fun of it. i don't know. i do enjoy it. but do i believe in it? enough to dedicate the better part of my life to it? or is that irrelevant because it's my responsibility? i didn't have to answer this question because knee surgery in january answered for me. by the time i was healing i was already gone. three buttons to the wind. adventure over responsibility. career suicide! blowing my potential. wasting my talent. i heard the buzz.
in all reality i was being constructive in a different way, traveling to a variety of locations and pushing personal boundaries in an attempt to learn, grow, and improve. it's not as immediate as a contest webcast, and heaven forbid its enjoyable, but in the end it's equally important and i've been neglecting it for too long because i was in a comfy space where contest results alone were satisfying. in order to be successful in surf competition you need to refine your act into a nice little package presentable in a 30 minute period in a number of trying conditions. you need to kill the variables. trim the loose ends. stay on your board. know your equipment. wave selection. endlessly try to revisit motions that score the most points. there are obviously exceptions to this. kelly slaters full rotation slob air reverse in new york. that was not a motion revisited and it was epic. on the beach afterwards: 'so kelly slater, how was that slob air reverse!' 'oh, is that what that's called?' also john john florence and gabriel medina. maybe it's only a matter of time before they refine their act, but for now i'm really impressed with their competitive success despite such rawness. rawness is good. surfing with john john this year in japan was enlightening. it was like every wave he was exploring new territory. i wanna explore new territory! i wanna unwind! by the end of the trip i felt improved and rejuvenated and then crunch! i busted my ribs at the mercy of a fresh typhoon swell. nearly drowned. another month out of the water. gotta pay to play. especially when you're trying to keep up with john john in waves of consequence.
and so here i am. 26. officially off tour. wasted talent. blown potential. refusing responsibility. 'all he wants to do is sit at home and play with crayons and ride fucked up boards.' but wait! but wait! that's not true! don't listen to chris mauro. he's a dinosaur. doesn't get it. this may be the end as a wct contender, but its also a new beginning. i feel like a baseball. the skins been carefully pried off and there's a thread and i'm gonna pull it and i'm gonna end up a pile of string on the floor. but then maybe i'll be knit into something more useful, like a sweater. or perhaps something beautiful, like a hand embroidered masterpiece of a deer and two fawn drinking cold clear water out of a creek. but you never know. i hope to achieve some sort of balance. yeah, i do like riding fucked up boards, but i also like doing airs and taking some aggression out on a cutback. and competings rad if you can stay inspired, but rankings and trophy's mean very little to me. i wanna learn, i wanna make things, things of purpose, be productive. travel. new experiences. new sensations. and most importantly explore the outer limits of performance surfing. i'll still compete. but its not going to consume me.
finding this balance will be a challenge. but its just a step in an endless set of steps. a staircase. it's sort of a big step. too big to just hop up. i gotta climb. like, with a rope and safety gear and shit. and i might get there and be bummed out and like my old step better but that's just the mystery of life and i'm happy to experience it. and i'm endlessly in debt to the ones who make it possible. firstly surf fans who have resonated with my surfing for one reason or another, because at the bottom of everything, you're the only reason i'm able to have the sponsorship that allows me to travel and eat and pay the bills and continue surfing. secondly my sponsors: channel islands believed in me from the ripe age of 13 and continue to craft boards that allow me perform at my highest potential and also craft boards that have nothing to do with performance at all, but make you realize how much joy you can get out of a simple high line. i thank quiksilver for their unwavering support, re-signing me during a year of uncertainty and working with me on honest marketing and products. i also thank vans for picking me up. every person on the team is one of my favorite surfers and/or people and i'm honored to be apart of it. there are, of course, hundreds of people worth thanking here, but this is who comes to mind tonight: my girlfriend courtney, for giving me inspiration, giving me perspective, giving me love and giving me treats. blair, for keeping my otherwise maelstrom of a life in order. my parents, for their conflicting views. i don't think i would have done very well in an ordinary functioning family household. my father particularly for dedicating countless weekends driving me up and down the coast to compete. that was a huge sacrifice. also my mom for preaching creativity, fearlessness, and keeping everything bullshit free. and my brother brek for administering many humbling experiences from a very early age. my grandparents, for being probably my biggest fans on earth. particularly grandma bonnie and papa chuck, who come to every surf contest on the west coast. they show up at 7 am to get good parking, even if i surf at 3. and also grandpa bob for giving me his super 8 cameras when i was 18 and instilling a lifelong hobby."
Classic Dane,good for him,mix it up how you want to,live it your way,because by the time you finished living it for everyone else you find its to late for yourself.Regrets?We all have them either way so what the hell!The Tour needs him more than he needs it.
Posted by Roland on the 28/12/2011 18:34
Dane is a free, different individual with a passion for life, not conforming to a bunch of old pricks that run a monopolised, boring tour that screws people like Dane, although he has been respectfully successful on it.
He is another Andy Irons at the end of his wonderfully highlighted career that was just over the bull shit!
What hurts is the fact that people are judging his potential putely on his surfing ability. They damn him because he rides different boards, speaks differently, interprets competitive surfing differntly.
For what it counts, Dane, you have my full support of a middle finger to that crap tour. Go and reach your true potential and what makes you tick.
Posted by Zariel on the 09/01/2012 07:26
That's really thikinng out of the box. Thanks!
Posted by Jamii on the 09/01/2012 13:06
Dane, epitomizes what surfing is all about.
Too bad if he does become a world champ in the current criteria or format but what would happen if only one wave counted.
Boom, no more priority or combo scores needed, just one good score and pro surfing might reflect a more pure form.
Long live the dreamer.
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Is there more to surfing,
18/12/2011
You bet your ass there is and I should know because I’ve just spent the last 10 days on an enforced leave of absence from the water. What’s a paltry 10 days I hear you ask? “That’s nothing”, “grin an bear it”, “take it on the chin” have been the responses of my mates. One even went so far as telling me to “have a cup of harden the f@#%k up!”
He’s right. I do need to harden up. At some point most of us will be faced with the reality of time out of the water and how we approach that time can make all the difference in the world to your well being and sanity. Once you stop physically surfing it doesn’t stop you being a surfer though. Your identity and psyche don’t suddenly change with the halting of the act of riding waves. It is not a switch that you can simply turn off as I’ve just rediscovered.\
I still check the charts everyday and I mindsurf anything resembling a wave in my immediate vicinity. Check our new ad http://www.thebombsurf.com/blog/7/62/summer-2012 to see what I’m talking about, but it goes beyond that. Physically I need to release the energy that builds up so I find myself running to do just that. The routes I take not surprisingly take me past the beach, a double-edged sword if ever there was one. Cool to smell the sea and see the waves, hard to watch them knowing I can’t surf them.
I fantasise about my re-entry into the ocean. The thought teases me. I can see a swell coming, but I’m not sure if I’ll be ready for it. I hope and pray I am. In the meantime I realise just how lucky we are to have surfing in our lives. I never thought I took it for granted but I’m even more grateful now.
If you are landlocked, bother or sister I feel your pain. If you are surfing today or you have already caught your quota, pause and reflect on the magic of what you’ve just done.
John
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Posted by Shintaro on the 20/02/2012 23:44
Lilia Ahner - Hi Heather:You did a btaeuiful job with their engagement photos! The surf pics are like a dream, looks like so much fun to shoot!
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Hawaii Dispatch 5
14/12/2011
All Images by Kelly Cestari
If you haven't heard by now Neptune delivered swell for Pipe and there was a buildup to it.
While the prePipeMasters Pipe was lifting her skirt some skirted with death at Off The Wall.
Unidentified amongst the thousands of photos captured but guaranteed it is still fresh in his mind.
It's not all smiles and rainbows being a water photographer.
But when you we get our photos the colgate smile delivers the rainbows.
Chad duToit is back on the NS staying at the Volcom house doing his duties as a "grom" and slipping out for sessions.
Shaun Joubert lining up for his cover shot, wait till the next issue to see the 4th and 5th frame of this.
Cover shots can be costly, Shauns price was a broken board.
When the swell arrives some simply burry their heads in the sand.
Slater gets burnt while JOB gets his photo taken.
Slater eventually got his photo and then some.
There are subliminal points for the dismount, some go for the power cutty while Owen Wright spins out.
Nat Young was close to making it onto tour and into the Pipe Masters, he got some waves but neither of the entries.
Julian Wilson got burnt by a single fin riding hippie then tried his luck at Backdoor.
Dane Gudauskas about to have the frothy world shut down on him.
Not a very clever situation to put yourself in.
A few wipeouts look worse than they actually are.
ASP World Jnr Champ Jack Freestone ducked in and out of the BBG house just as much as he did the barrels.
The wonderful world of breath hold.
The North Shore is rife with thievery, lock up your goods.
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Posted by brandon on the 19/12/2011 10:22
Nice work Kell!
Posted by Shakeel on the 20/02/2012 19:03
We shloud all be taught 'don't panic house maintenance' as children. How absolutely fantastic that you have a reliable plumber and such a thoughtful contractor too. They are worth their weight in paintings, and the real upside of a good community.
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If riding a normal board is running down a boulder strewn path in hiking boots,
13/12/2011
For three years I’ve been riding an Alaia now. It all started when I watched a movie called ‘The Present’ which has a whole chapter dedicated to the modern rebirth of the Alaia courtesy of Tom Wegner being inspired by what he saw in the Bishop museum in Honolulu. As an alternative surfboard builder he recognised a consistent design principle in these ancient Hawaiian boards and with the help of guys like Dave Rastovich and Chris Delmorro (amongst others) he breathed new life into these beautiful and simple craft.
Kyle Jacobs imported some Alaia blanks from Tom in Australia and with Clayton’s help we set about shaping our own here in SA. Soon Johnno Hutchison and his mate Conrad up the North Coast dialled into the craftsmanship and suddenly there were a couple in the water dotted all over SA.
By this point I’d become addicted to mine. The start was hard, really hard but the rewards were so worth it. It was like walking through a door. Wherever Iain and I travelled in the early days of theBOMBsurf we took our Alaias along refining and learning all the time. Now I don’t go anywhere without mine.
I never met him, but word of a mysterious Hawaiian who travelled the entire coast and really surfed well on his Alaia met us at every beach we got to. He preceded us by a few months but it was clear that his skill was dramatically advanced from our own. I often wonder who that mysterious Hawaiian was and if I’ll ever meet him.
I remember wondering if it would be possible to surf Supers on one and going down there to try. I’d been riding the Alaia for about 18 months when I surfed Supers for the first time. I got a few waves but found the speed almost overwhelming and I could hardly control the board. Another year went by with more practice and I gave it another shot. This time I could dial into it – what an amazing sensation! While there I discovered that The Point may in fact be the ultimate hot dog Alaia wave. It is just so much fun to ride on an Alaia.
It was around then that we discovered Andrew and Cobus from WAWA wooden boards who were focusing all their board making skills on these type of boards. They’re based in Muizenberg. Walking into their shop was like walking into Aladdin’s cave for me there were so many beautiful boards I wanted to ride. They generously allowed us to ‘test’ a whole bunch of their prized creations at Long Beach and I can honestly say I’ve never had so much fun riding Long Beach!
The Alaia offers four gifts. Firstly a way of riding normal waves you never could on a regular board. Secondly it opens up a whole bunch of waves you wouldn’t normally ride because they are too small or too flat or too kelpy. Thirdly it opens an opportunity to be creative in your surfing. There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way to ride these things. We’re figuring it out as we go along which is really cool. Finally it gives you a great workout. A one-hour surf on an Alaia will burn as much energy as a three-hour surf on a regular board.
If you are still wondering what to put in your Christmas stocking, I’d say get an Alaia.
Where you can get them:
KZN: Johnno Hutchison 083 7841394
Eastern Cape: Country Feeling 042 293 1679
Cape Town: WAWA/Cobus & Andrew 082 3723142
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Posted by Pat Flan on the 17/12/2011 18:41
A different dance - one the requires much skill. John has all the moves.
Posted by Mark on the 19/12/2011 09:54
It's all style - what hope for us lesser mortals?
Posted by jono on the 19/12/2011 13:54
Siek
Posted by WantHD on the 19/12/2011 18:24
Have you guys got a phobia against any kind of video content that even vaguely approaches HD?
Its 2011 chaps HD content and camera has been out for years , are you guys still using your Sony DV tape camcorder you bought in 2001 in Indo's for R5k?
Just a heads up - it was a bargain back then but its a piece of junk now...
Or maybe you guys are so tight fisted you can't bring yourselves to pay for the extra bandwidth HD will use - I honestly can say that not having HD content will hurt your bottom line as users go else where to view content that is a little crisper!
Eeish ballies come alive!!
Posted by John McCarthy on the 19/12/2011 22:51
@WantHD, couldn't agree with you more. Time to retire the old sony camcorder. She's served us well but time to go. Watch this space in 2012 after we've treated ourselves for Christmas.
Posted by Warwick Heny on the 21/12/2011 10:17
awesome clip of you at jbay John ! that thing you ride looks soo much fun ! Have a great Christmas !
Thanks re the cover, Barbara and Lauren.Yeah, edge is a fvtroiae word and concept of mine (I really need to blog about the amazing new film, The Edge of Heaven, even if it's a lousy translation of the more accurate title On the Other Side.)Hi Tracy I'll be checking your blog very soon.
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Understanding the Shark Factor
09/12/2011
I'm interested to see what you readers out there think of this clip for Nat Geo Wild, featuring our very own OJ Symcox and the article written by Kerry Wright in the latest issue of the BOMBsurf (issue 13, pg 68-79) called "Understanding the Shark Factor"
It's an age old, extremely sensitive topic. But are we actually getting any closer to understanding shark behaviours as a result? Will articles and documentaries like this a) change our attitude toward how we see sharks? and if so b) will that make us change at all regarding when and where we surf?
I've freedived with Tigers, black-tips and Raggies, quite a few times, even with OJ on a few occasions - and I was fascinated by the findings in Kerry's article. I still shit myself to go surfing at certain spots, at certain times of the year. I like to think I love sharks ...more when I'm diving with them than surfing. Then I'd just prefer them to stay further off shore!
Kerry Wright's article in theBOMBsurf issue 13.
My opinion is that sharks are always going to act like sharks and explore their territories in search of food - their behaviour is too random to predict any set of "criteria" as to when you should and shouldn't surf - besides common sense prevailing, the risk is always there that you'll be in the same place at the same time as a big, curious shark - and that's not an experience any surfer is going to enjoy - whether they are threatened by the shark or not, and like me, whether they are a self-professed "shark-lover".
Post your comments below, and please indicate if or if not you've read Kerry's very comprehensive article in theBOMBsurf...
Julius Shouldn't you, as a kiwi, be more wreriod that aliens want to make fast food out of the human race? If you've seen bad taste you'll know what I mean
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Hawaiian Dispatch Four
07/12/2011
All images by Kelly Cestari
Late last Wednesday the predicted swell started to arrive giving Sunset frothers a chance before the contest started.
Before and after the Sunset event Rockies picked up some swell and CJ Hobgood picked up a few air miles.
Rockies is a very rippable wave and Shaun Joubert has been pushing the limits of what you can do in a foot of water.
Dale Staples wasn't so lucky and knocked his fin out at Rockies.
Then Dale tried his luck at Off The Wall and got dropped in on.
Once Sunset came to life the free surfers were pushing their luck on contest mornings, a SUP got the last wave in 2 minutes before the first heat started.
Good thing you can't really look behind you while surfing, you may never do it again.
Jordy scored a high 8 on a board he'd never ridden before and on a wave he claimed was the biggest thing he'd ridden all year.
Dale Staples had little regard for you should and shouldn't do at Sunset.
The jetski gets a pretty sick view but it can also get in the way, luckily for Josh Kerr he didn't have to hop the mat on exit.
John John Florence was a barrel magnet on the last two days of the event.
Victory number 3 for the year in his home waters.
Condom sales increase this time of year on the North Shore, some of them are used for other purposes.
Before heading back to California to spend time with his family Rudy Palmboom got some last punts in at Rockies.
- It's good to see Gavin Gillette has picked up a sponsor.
Corey Lopez loves Rocky Lefts.
That is a single fin Dave Rastovich is powering about on.
Jay Thompson cracking the whip.
Watching the pros surf pushes us mere mortals to try harder, most of the time it results in the whoopsie daisies.
A bike patch accident has rendered me land locked for a while, Staph infections are not fun, plastic bags on foot are the new anti-infection cure.
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Posted by Caroline on the 22/02/2012 03:49
I asked my hbnuasd about this as I read because he's the type of person who would do something like this. Dang. I thought I would sound all cool, like I knew of this new sport that he didn't know about. not. He's all over it!
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How strong is your surfing community?
06/12/2011
The recent Kommetjie Surf Festival and last weekend’s Guido’s SA Open event in Port Alfred have highlighted the importance of the local community taking ownership of organising their own events. Instead of sitting back and complaining, these guys are taking matters into their own hands and making cool things happen.
The vibe at these types of events is completely different to those where a huge sponsor comes along and takes over your local beach for a few days usually without even consulting the local surfers. The by the community for the community model has a lot to be said for it and despite how competitive they can be, they are also all about having fun.
Defending AirOff Champion, Jordan Alexander
In that vein there are a crew in Strand known as WolfAlley (local creative’s and surfers) who are about to embark on the second version of their event called The WolfAlley AirOff, which takes place next weekend on Sunday the 11th at Strand in front of Natural Energy Surf Shop. AirOff is a wave runner assisted big air, surf and bodyboarding competition. The invitation only event provides a platform for local groms as well as experienced surfers to compete in a battle for creative and radical air supremacy.
The winner walks off with a cash cheque and a custom crafted signet ring courtesy of Jewellery Designer Stefni Muller – nice touch and a cool idea for the trophy!
The event is aimed at bringing together the community, so if you are a surfer, artist of any genre or just feel like checking it out as a spectator to learn some air tips get on down to Strand on Sunday to check it out!
John
Got something to say? Then leave a comment!
Posted by Belinda on the 08/12/2011 10:07
Air Off is actually on Saturday the 10th of Dec and not Sunday the 11th. Wolfalley are also hosting an after party at Blue Rock Cable Ski Park, Sir Lowrys Pass from 6pm Sat 10 Dec.
Posted by Zabrina on the 07/01/2012 07:00
I'm quite plaseed with the information in this one. TY!
As the opening ceremony becomes more commercialised the surfers close ranks for the prayer.
Arrive late for the ceremony to be lost in the crowd all you will see is tips of the rhino chasers.
Three years in a row for Twiggy and now he rides one of the shortest boards amongst his peers.
Equipment that is honed from knowledge attained by riding the biggest possible waves.
Grant Twiggy Baker flying the flat for South Africa.
Ramon Navarro winner of the Monster Drop award in the 2009 event.
Mark Healy will take a break from swimming with Great Whites to tackling the Great Waimea should the Eddie run in 2011.
Alex Grey will step in as an alternate should someone be unable to take their invitee invitation.
Eddie regular Sunny Garcia and Eddie debutant Jeremy Flores.
John John Florence, 19 years old and an Eddie alternate.
Garret McNamara from 90ft Portugal to hanging out on the alternate list for more big things.
Twiggy says he doesn't know how long he will be in Hawaii, the swell will dictate his plans.
Slater and Dorian, old friends, old hands at big wave surfing.
Jamie O'Brien
Clyde Aikau always looking to make his brother proud.
A tradition at the ceremony is that everyone, friends, family, strangers get fed. One big Ohana.
When the bay calls the day that crowd will be ten fold and traffic will be backed up for miles.
Form the circle, say your words, splash the water and then wait for the swell.
Going left at , Mark Healey did it in 2009 some other crazies will do it again.
A small swell was available on ceremony day, a bigger, much bigger, swell is bearing across the pacific towards the North Shore and already "Eddie Swell" murmurs are surfacing.
Got something to say? Then leave a comment!
Posted by Travon on the 20/12/2011 15:49
Superb information here, ol'e chap; keep bnuring the midnight oil.
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