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An open letter to the SA surfing community

23/01/2013
Recent events and reports in the media have compelled me to reflect on our situation in its entire context. We need to look at how we got to this point, and what it might possibly mean for our future in the waves. The sad part is many of the ills that affect our country as a whole are found in line-ups these days. Greed is one, exclusivism another and violence is the ugliest. The good news is we don’t have to be prisoners of our past. And much like the rest of this country’s still undetermined future, it’s ours to grasp, or let it slip between our fingers.

I don’t know quite when it first happened, or for that matter even where, but somewhere along the line, catching waves became a selfish thing. We sought to catch many waves, and at the expense of others. We began competing for waves, instead sharing a session. We took the steps down the individualist path where surfing became focussed on waves ridden, and not moments enjoyed. It spread and soon this attitude came to dominate all but the least crowded places. It didn’t have to become like this.

It’s been justified in so many ways. It begs a few questions, though: When have earned the right to take a wave from someone else? What gives you this precedence? And then why are these good reasons? I don’t have answers here. You can answer them for yourself. And saying that ‘that’s the way it is’ is not good enough. It doesn’t have to be like this. Imagine saying this: “Nah, I didn’t get anything good on this epic day. But I saw X and Y get cookers, and just being out there was such a jol.

Yet, here we are. The most common cause of angst in the line-up can be attributed to localism. Localism, as I’ve seen it expressed (in most instances - I’ve happily experienced exceptions, too) isn’t about custodianship, about teaching manners to newcomers, or maintaining a sense of order when things get busy. It’s a form of exclusivity. It’s a method of drawing a line between ‘us’ and ‘them’, and denying ‘them’ of any privileges that ‘we’ may enjoy. It pushes anyone outside a tight circle to the periphery and leaves them to fight for scraps on the margins. That might sound familiar in the broader context of our country’s history.

In creating these tight rings we push as many people apart aside as possible. Reasons fall into 3 rough categories: lack of familiarity, lesser ability, and likelihood of returning aggression. Basically, any excuse to prey on the weak. This means anyone who’s not recognised as from there, not quite as experienced, a girl, or of colour gets marginalised. And this is not only seen as excusable, but endorsed as legit.

Attempts to challenge this system are met with aggression and violence. And this is contagious. The recent shootings in America have prompted researchers to now look at violence as a contagious disease. Staying at home, we managed a peaceful transition to democracy under the auspices of truly great men – icons of our time, true examples of human potential. The international community lauded it and sought to learn from our willingness to discuss our differences and forgive our transgressions. Then we lost our way, because we couldn’t truly get a past an ‘us’ and ‘them’ mind-set.

The incident that set the ball rolling here was a racially charged one. Whether it began as a racial incident, or morphed into that either in the heat of the moment, or because of the angle the media spun is an unknown quantity. Racism in the line-up (or anywhere) needs to end. Not just because of a sense of fairness, but because it will be our undoing in the long term. Having chatted to some coloured surfers since the incident, the most chilling comment was “When you paddle out, you can see the scorn in their eyes.” It’s unclear whether this is motivated by deep seated racism, or part of the attempt to make an unfamiliar unwelcome. But, the offended surfer isn’t going to react well to it. And the race card – justified or not – is often played. The consequences as we’ve seen follow on.

I come from a farming background. It’s an industry battles with the image of being the preserve of white males. Surfing is going to suffer under the same perception unless we actively work hard to avoid it. Then the best case scenario will be apathy from the authorities. Anything from ‘could the city please fix the showers at the beach’ to ‘putting this sewage pipe here will be a bad idea’ will be ignored. At worst, government will actively try to undermine us with any tool at their disposal. Such as deliberately ignoring car break-ins at the beach, or purposefully placing sewage pipes where surf spots are. These are just examples off the top of my head. You may think they’re farfetched, or may come up with even more sinister ones of your own.

You probably won’t agree with this, but we need more surfers in the water. As a democracy, the more we are, the better voice we have. And unfortunately in our racially charged political climate, black voices are recognised above white ones. As inland water resources in the interior become scarcer, our industries will move to the coast. This is going to put enormous pressure on the marine environment. Unless we have a large and inclusive community to defend it, we’re going to lose everything that we have. Then we’ll all know what it’s like to fight for left overs.

And our waves can take more surfers. As a Capetonian, I recently enjoyed a post-work session at an urban spot that was firing with only my mates on it. Just yesterday, I sat on the beach at one of our premier spots with a Californian visitor. He couldn’t believe how uncrowded it was. He said in the previous week he’d been there with no-one out. I could believe him. I’d been there on weekends and had multiple peaks to pick from with me the only taker. And it’s not like I’m especially dialled to these places either. I can’t speak for Durban, PE or the Garden Route, but think back and you know you’ve enjoyed uncrowded waves where you really shouldn’t have. Cities will always have crowds, our best waves are going attract visitors. Much like daily conditions, you can’t do too much about that.

Those who know me have definitely seen me lose my cool. But apart from my weak pop-up, and stiff posture, it’s something that I’m working on. The correct attitude is arguably the aspect that the will help me enjoy my surfing the most. Your attitude is your own – you can use it make your session, or undo it for yourself and those around you. And if you want to use a bad attitude to chase others away, it’s going to count against you in the long term. In the end, you may have caught more waves, but I’ll still be the one smiling and laughing, and you’re still the one pissed off with life.

With all the above, you can dismiss it or take it to heart. I’m not suggesting anyone to go out there and klap the neighbourhood bully into his place. Change needs to come from within. Like violence is contagious, so is stoke. Surfing began with something called Aloha. We have our own Ubuntu. It’s time it made itself known in our waves.

Yours in surfing,
Anton Louw


 
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Posted by JBAY! on the 24/01/2013 08:31
reading this the whole time thinking "Every break has locals" what do know blah blahblah, but i must apologise,,, the last 4 lines of your article is so spot on! AND QUOTE " With all the above, you can dismiss it or take it to heart. I’m not suggesting anyone to go out there and klap the neighbourhood bully into his place. Change needs to come from within. Like violence is contagious, so is stoke. Surfing began with something called Aloha. We have our own Ubuntu. It’s time it made itself known in our waves. UNQUOTE"

Posted by Mark on the 24/01/2013 08:36
I have to agree with your sentiments on some of the so called "locals", but there is another side to this coin and that is in the attitude of the other "non locals" - be they visitors, new surfers, girls, different wave craft riders and even some competent surfers...RESPECT is something that you need to take with into the ocean, don't leave that at the shore line, "locals" show some respect to "non locals" and vice versa and then everyone will get along...when last did you give anyone a wave be they a stranger or a friend?? Try it sometime...you will be amazed at how it makes you feel. Nicely written there Anton

Posted by Ryan H on the 24/01/2013 12:51
Whats really missing is general lack of understanding of the unwritten "rules" of the line ups, and basic water etiquette. When you started surfing as a grom - this gets drilled into your mindset by the older guys or "locals". This happens at most spots from Durbs to Cape Town and all over the world. Nowadays though surfing has moved past being a sub-culture, a lifestyle that you live by, an aspiration to be a true waterman with full respect for the ocean/nature, it's inhabitants and fellow watermen. It is now full blown mainstream,guys making millions a year and becoming celebrities. It a professional sport just like soccer or rugby and now everyone is jumping onto the wagon. A more diverse crowd of people are taking up surfing, most of them without the slightest clue of the heritage, the tone of it's culture (by this i mean its definitely frowned upon when some beefcake paddles around tuning everyone and their mom that these are his waves, his spot etc and anyone that differs is going to get a PK), the general etiquette needed in line ups etc (the concept and "law" of inside and outside, if a guy has sat back and let your bunch have set wave after set and decides he would like to get one, sit back and guide him into one etc). The racism card is bullshit - i hate how it gets thrown around at will, and now its hit surfing. How many friends of ours are non-white and i mean do you really shit yourself and feel uneasy when you see a black/coloured guy paddle out - or does it just piss you off when you see that he surfs better than you and been surfing for the half years that you have? Localism - what the f**k? It is purely down to lack of respect for the "rules" of surfing that this shit even still exists. Its common basic human decency to respect a spot that you are only visiting. When you visit someones house - do you really act like you are at home? Shit with the door open, get naked with a brewsky in the lounge - hell no kid! So why we do have no respect when visiting surf spots? Elands for example - How many people actually live in Elands that surf there (i dont mean having a holiday house on the point, i mean a 24hour resident) Surely this number is under 25 people. Yet when you go there and its cooking you have 50-60 "locals" out claiming the waves as their own? Just because you travel up the west coast 3 or 4 times a month would never make anyone a local (in the true meaning of the term) you are just a regular f**ken visitor - so know your role! I still think that we are luckier than anywhere else in the world in terms of surf spots and crowds especially in Cape Town as Anton Louw says. Surfing aint going anywhere, the number of surfers will never decrease only increase, so the quicker we can whip out some Ubuntu/Aloha spirit - the quicker the stoke will return. I have a surf school and my motto that i give the groms and newbies is simple - "If you're smiling, you're styling" I dont think any surf session is meant to leave you swearing and more pissed off than when you entered the water - if this is the case - then YOU DOING IT WRONG! Max the stoke okes

Posted by John McCarthy on the 24/01/2013 14:54
If you ever want to see a community that is getting it right, go check out how things happen in East London. I have surfed all over the world but have yet to see a surfing community that has the same kind of positive localisim and surfing culture that Slummies has. They nurture their groms, but they also teach them respect. They are hospitable to visitors who behave themselves. There is an established heirarchy in the water and it works. They are competitive amongst themselves, but it is a friendly rivalry and all it does is push the performance levels. This probably explains why so many hot surfers come from Slummies even though it is one of our smaller cities.

Posted by Human Nature on the 24/01/2013 14:56
Put a bunch of people in the same space and they will compete with each other. Some fairly, and others not so fairly... That's just the nature of us beasts. Not everybody has a cool outlook on life, and no amount of crying will make "them" change their attitude. Take traffic for example, plenty people just trying to get home but a few knobs tail gating and flashing lights to get past. The human race is a diverse sea of personalities, and unfortunately not all of them are nice to be around.... The "why can we all share the stoke" mantra is a noble one, but unfortunately a bit of a pipe dream. That knob hussling everbody loves things just the way they are.

Posted by citysurfer on the 28/01/2013 14:12
Ubuntu starts on the beach. How many modern surf rats arrive at the beach and leave all their rubbish lying around. Be that wax/wax wrappers/ fast food containers....... If each surfer made an effort for the environment first and above all, peace in the water would automatically follow.

Posted by Trevor Gray (G) on the 28/01/2013 19:28
This whole issue has morphed into a serious introspection of our surf tribe.Many have vented their spleen behind aliases and threatened various forms of retribution that seems incompatible with the whole point of surfing. We cannot be distracted by the key issue, violent behaviour! For many the justification of localism is paramount. However this particular individual was not a local. Many felt he was justified, eye witnesses dispute this and suggest he dropped in! Many considered this a racial issue.No one heard racial slurs. Many identified said individual as a perpetrator of numerous violent incidents. These include pulling guns in car parks as well as physically forcing a gun in the mouth of a visiting surfer. Due to no charges being laid, no criminal sanction has followed resulting in no factual proof. However these anecdotes have not been refuted by said person and his silence may be a sound legal strategy, this does nothing to quell the sense that this person believes himself to be a law unto himself and offers justification in the cloak of racial oppression. What is the impact on all code adhering surfers? Can it be to ignore blatant aggression? What if your son/daughter/girlfriend /boyfriend/ husband /wife encounters him? Personally I believe this person has carried the baggage of land into the water and this has resulted in a toxic bomb of anger. We need to debate localism, racism and all the isms of the world, however look to the points raised and base your response accordingly. In my book violence has no place in the line up, especially on such a feeble premise!!!

Posted by yaseen on the 29/01/2013 00:33
I agree Anton and; to highlight your racism point, I actually had racist comments and obvious snares while I surfed a Cpt urban spot ( Solly's) in sea point. Till today it still happens and I have since stopped surfing there. So...technically...locals-1 me-0 but that being said I dont punish alk the ither white folks because of four guys who frequent that spot. Sadly, not all guys will turn the other cheek and I think the problem will continue into perpetuity if we dont define "local". Does it mean 1.I surf there all the time; 2. I can afford to buy a house there because I am not historically disadvantaged; or 3.My parents were ALLOWED to live there during apartheid when people if colour were forced out of "white areas" and shot if they returned, so I just inherited the family home and the "local" status. Your comment about the sewerage pipes is funny 'cos ironically the beach 9miles from muizenberg ( where coloured ous surfed during apartheid) has two giant sewerage outlets that turn the water black when it rains needless to say we drink loads if immune booster ( lol). After all said, im.stoked to.be a capetonian and ill surf till.die regardless of who hates or loves coloureds, blacks, whites. Here's a though: Duke Kahanamuku wasn't white....nobody cared... Much respect.... Yaseen

Posted by TrevorG on the 29/01/2013 09:44
There is no place in the surf for racism. Perhaps it is time for those who have experienced this scourge to name the spots they have encountered this at. Perhaps then we can see the extent of the problem. Whilst I have been on the receiving end of this as a "white" I would be most uncomfortable with others assuming I was the same due to my colour. Makes me think localism can be used to entrench privilege by the minority!

Posted by gavin@hluhluwe.co.za on the 03/02/2013 08:28
I paddled out at Dairy in Durban this week Tuesday morning after dropping my kids at school. A small left hander and maybe 4 guys out. I'm getting back into surfing after a 15 year lack of waves due to business commitments and I live 300 kilometers up the north coast. After a two hour session I have met 3 guys in the water, they are in their early fifties and I am 48. Plenty of good vibes and banter prevail and we talk about how we have somehow managed to keep doing this thing that we love so much. My three new friends paddle in and I stay for a few more as the easterly flattens the small swell. Looking over my shoulder I see a new arrival floating out on the rip. He's got sun bleached long hair, tanned like a Florida pensioner and I can just see that this guy is a seasoned surfer. My conditioned brain tell's me he's going to be an unfriendly self important local type far removed from the three individuals I have just spent the last two hours with. As he paddles up I look at him and he immediately flashes a huge smile and raises his hands, his palms together in a classic Buddhist style prayer salutation. Taken by surprise I return a stalled greeting no where near as spontaneous as his. After a few more waves and watching the new guy ripping the heart out of a few waves I head for the beach. In the comfort of my car I take a moment to savor the morning and the awesome strangers that shared the waves. I think about how I so wrongly stereotyped the 'dude' and decide that next time out I will be open to the possibility that we can all surf the waves and enjoy them together no matter what age, how we surf or where we surf. It really does start with a smile, a greeting and respect.

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